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Carcharias Mod from Headset to Headphones (LOTS OF PICTURES 56k users beware)

post #1 of 3
Thread Starter 
So I was in the market for a nice looking set of can's that I could modify with some better drivers. After searching for a style I liked I found nothing within a reasonable price range...But then I remembered that I liked the look of the Megalodon I have and they have a non USB setup the Carcharias. I figured they'd be pretty cheap as they are old gen tech. Alas they still go for $80 new $50 used on CL. So I hoped on Ebay looking for a non working set and found 2 for a total of $36 after shipping. One set had a mic that didnt work (still waiting to receive mad.gif) The other had 1 driver that was not working. (ordered second received first...)

I figured from the two I would make a working set of headphones and then have either a backup headset or spare sparts for my megalodon or I could even make another set of headphones using the left over frames. Looking at the design of the headphones it looked like the mic could be easily detached since it is not built into the can like a lot of other headsets are and then the cap that is on the other can could be fitted to fill the gap from the mic removal. That's why I bought 2 So I could use the cap from the other headset to cap the mic side.

So after taking everything apart I figured id document the process of the actual modding I did just for funzy's. The headset mod itself isn't finished I'm waiting on the ebay store to get my replacement drivers back in stock then I'm gonna order sever pairs and do this mod to my megalodons too and possibly my Cechya-0080's depending on how nice it sounds, and I still need the other headset to come in so I can cap the Mic can. Other then that the first phase is done. Below are some pics of what took place...and a parts list for phase 1 I will update the list and some pics on phase 2 when the rest of the stuff arrives.

I want to mention that the way I decided to run the connection is entirely subjective and could be used to run a straight wire instead of using an audio jack should you prefer a direct connection instead...I chose to use the jack because I plan to use several custom made headphone cables each sleeved differently allowing me to swap cables like shoes. This also makes it easier to store the headset and not have to worry about tangled wires.

Phase 1 Parts List
- 1 Non working Carcharias Headset
- 1 SMT 3.5mm Jack (I got mine from an old CD player, for best fitment use the same style or at least size that I have used, It is literally a perfect fit. Other then the port itself)
- Some spare colored wire
- Solder
- Flux
-3M Double Sided Tape

Tools Used (should be universal for all phases)
- Sodlering Iron
- Soldering Wick
- Razer blade/Xacto Knifes
- Small head Philips screw driver
- Wire Cutters
- Drill Press (You can probably use a hand drill but the hole will most likely not be as clean.)

Phase 1

So I started off by taking the whole headset apart. I didn't cover any of this as it is self explanatory. I decided to completely remove the right driver from the left detaching the cable because I had planned to sleeve it a different color (still do) but the paracord I have is too thick and wont fit through the holes and channels built into the headset pieces. So another time. I will mention that to remove the wires they run under the padding through several channels and to remove the wire you will have to remove the padding. The padding is stuck on by some very nasty very sticky double sided foam padding. This stuff was no fun to remove...I replaced it with 2 layers of 3M double sided tape when I finished.

So first things first after having the driver casing completely detached from everything so I could work on it easily I cut the original cable off at the source. I don't have a pic but it should be self explanatory...After removal I opened my box of spare parts (A shoe box full of stuff I have decided to take apart over the years biggrin.gif) And began my search for an audio jack. My first choice was an audio jack I had found on an old MP3 Player. It took me forever to get it unsoldered, It did not want to let go. I beat it up pretty bad trying to remove it (cracked the port and the housing plastic) and it didn't even fit...I planned to drill out the slot where it was going to sit so it would be deeper and the jack would sit flush but decided to look for another jack instead just in case I had a perfect fit.

This brought me to my compatible donor..An old Sony CD player...I was extremely happy to see how big the solder points where for this jack as it would be easily removed. I had already removed the Jack in the pictures. And because of fitment problems I had foreseen I bent the pins down flat to the jack frame so they wouldn't be sticking up anymore. I didn't know it would cause me problems later down the line at the time..
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Here is the MP3 Player audio jack compared to the CD Line out jack. Notice how much longer the MP3 Player one is. When you look at the photos later down you will see why it wouldn't have fit and what I meant by drill out the slot to make it fit, regardless I was going to do some drilling it was choosing the worse of the 2 evils...The one pro to the MP3 Player jack was that the port fit perfectly in the premade hole from where the headset cables came out of the can. The Line Out was bigger at the port and required modification of the can to make it fit. I took the liberty of measuring the line out jack in case it could be of use to someone as well..Also the MP3 Player port although it fit perfectly in the premade hole it sat a little recessed or pronounced and wasn't flush and didn't look good with the stereo jack plugged in..The Line out was perfect length.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




So here are some photos of the fitment testing of the line out jack. I boxed in red the areas where I was worried the most about fitment. In the can frames there is a small slot where the cable would sit secured. The line out jack slips into this slot rather smoothly. Like a glove. Because of this when the can is put back together there is no play in the plug when you go to plug something in or pull something out. It is snug, and can take the force required to pull out the audio plug without flinching. This was a major thing for me since I knew more then anything it takes a lot of force sometimes to pull those plugs out and considering I want to be able to change cables like shoes I was going to need something that could handle the abuse.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Now while it snugged in this slot perfectly, when it came to put the can back together problems arose. First off as mentioned earlier the Jack didnt fit into the premade hole. The hole was to small and so the jack would only sit about 1mm into the whole. To combat this issue I put the can back together and put it under the drill press. I lined up the premade hole with the drill press and drilled it out to a bigger size. so that the port would sit flush. Because the cans are round and port is on the bottom I had no way to lock the can in place to get a perfect line up so I had to do it by hand. The whole came out ok but I think it could be better..
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


After drilling out the whole I found myself facing the next problem. The port fit in the hole but the can would not close flush. The back side of the can was being pushed out by the top side of the jack not allowing the seams to close flush. So to fix this I had to get my Xacto knife and slowly cut back the plastic on the frame making a small channel for the top of the jack to sit in.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)






After all the fab work was done on the frames. Now it just came down to soldering the jack to the wires. I used some sharpie to mark the pins on the jack for memory reference in case I had to drop the project for some reason before I could finish. Also for picture reference. It turns out that when I went to test my channels they were backwards LOL. So they are backwards in the pic. This would turn out to be only the beginning of my headache...
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

This was just a small fitment mock up photo to see how the lengths where going to work when it sat in place..Notice the channels are backwards in this photo...
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

So after finding out the channels where backwards and correcting the issue I wasn't getting my right channel, and could not figure out why...At first I thought it was a ground issue...then after I got the ground soldered perfectly I thought maybe it was a contact issue on the pin for the right channel, nope...After hours of trouble shooting I had literally started to melt the plastic housing of the jack from doing so much soldering...Can you tell? I finally realized that out of the the 2 rear pins only 1 was giving me audio out, I had assumed because the 2 front pins where a single piece of metal that the 2 back pins where also but it turns out that wasn't the case...because they where bridged I think 1 was a ground and was grounding the channel out. So I had to unsolder the bridge and bend the pin that worked out so I could solder the wire to the working pin.

By this time the wires where a bit shorter as I had cut them back a couple times to get fresh wire for the contact points in case this was why it was giving me no audio (the wires where burning when I would solder them). Because of the earlier backwards fiasco my left channel was a bit shorter and wouldn't reach to my left channel pin anymore..I had a set of old sony headphones the ones that clip around your ear, The cabling inside was color coated with the same colors as the ones in the headset. So I snipped me some off and replaced it, while I was at it I decided to just replace all of the wire. You'll notice the length differences in the photos. From the mock up to the final.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

After this all was well. I put everything back together while I waited for some goo gone to work its magic on the sticky foam on the headband. I cleaned up the sticky foam and laid on some double sided tape reattached the head foam and all was well. Last but not least the finished product of phase 1.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




So that pretty much concludes phase 1 thumb.gif. Will be doing the next phases as the parts come in. I may do a disassemble documentation as well when I take apart my next pair (if they ever arrive..) if I'm not to lazy. Hope you guys enjoyed it as much as I did! Oh and please excuse any errors I'm sort of in a rush right now Ill come back and clean it up later tonight. This technique here should be useable for just about any headphones/headset. Even USB ones as afaik all speakers I've ever wired use the same interface at their base for driving them. A power and a ground wire. Although rewiring a USB would no longer make it USB xP.
Edited by dekciW - 5/27/13 at 1:09pm
     
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7 3770k @ 4.5/1.26v ASUS Maximus Formula V XFX R290X 16GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR GT DDR3 2133Mhz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
x2 WD WD2500HHTZ, x2 WD WD5000HHTZ (Raid0), Sea... Samsung SH-222AB Corsair H100 Quad-Fan - CPU Corsair H80/H80 - 6990 
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7 Ultimate x64 SP1 3x Samsung S27A750D in Eyefinity Microsoft Sidewinder X6 Corsair AX1200 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Cooler Master Haf X (Temp Case) NZXT Avatar S (Black) Xtrac PADS RIPPER XXL Razer Megalodon/Maelstrom Audio Engine 7.1 
AudioAudioAudio
Sony CECHYA-0080 Wireless Headset/Onboard Realt... Harman/Kardon AVR 1600 - Sony SAVS-150H 7.1 Spe... Harman/Kardon 330A - Cinema Acoustics CSX-1200 ... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel C2D E6700 (Conroe) @ 3.6Ghz Intel D975XBX2 "Bad Axe 2" ATi Radeon X1950 Pro 4GB DualChan Corsair Dominator PC6400 @ 720Mhz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Old 130gb 5400rpm Seagate  SH22AB H60 Dual Fan Intake 
PowerCaseMouse Pad
Corsair TX750v2 NZXT Apollo None 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7 3770k @ 4.5/1.26v ASUS Maximus Formula V XFX R290X 16GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR GT DDR3 2133Mhz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
x2 WD WD2500HHTZ, x2 WD WD5000HHTZ (Raid0), Sea... Samsung SH-222AB Corsair H100 Quad-Fan - CPU Corsair H80/H80 - 6990 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
7 Ultimate x64 SP1 3x Samsung S27A750D in Eyefinity Microsoft Sidewinder X6 Corsair AX1200 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Cooler Master Haf X (Temp Case) NZXT Avatar S (Black) Xtrac PADS RIPPER XXL Razer Megalodon/Maelstrom Audio Engine 7.1 
AudioAudioAudio
Sony CECHYA-0080 Wireless Headset/Onboard Realt... Harman/Kardon AVR 1600 - Sony SAVS-150H 7.1 Spe... Harman/Kardon 330A - Cinema Acoustics CSX-1200 ... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel C2D E6700 (Conroe) @ 3.6Ghz Intel D975XBX2 "Bad Axe 2" ATi Radeon X1950 Pro 4GB DualChan Corsair Dominator PC6400 @ 720Mhz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Old 130gb 5400rpm Seagate  SH22AB H60 Dual Fan Intake 
PowerCaseMouse Pad
Corsair TX750v2 NZXT Apollo None 
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post #2 of 3
Interesting concept... Personally, I like the mic that comes with the headset. But I can see how this would be a handy modification.
post #3 of 3
Thread Starter 
When I did this mod I was looking for a pair of personal headphones with a 3.5mm Jack, For using when on the go. I already owned a megalodon headset since it came out, and it is very comfortable and I love the look and overall simple design, but being it would only be used for listening I didn't need the mic, so I removed it to make the headset look more like just a set of cans. In my search for headphones that had a similar style and wouldn't break my bank, I didn't find me anything and then it dawned on me that I could just use a broken megalodon or carcharias and just mod it. And well that's the outcome. I have actually since finished my first cable for the headset, but don't have any pics on hand. And I am also about to begin experimenting with the possibility of adding LED lights on the sides so it lights up like the megalodon when plugged in.
     
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7 3770k @ 4.5/1.26v ASUS Maximus Formula V XFX R290X 16GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR GT DDR3 2133Mhz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
x2 WD WD2500HHTZ, x2 WD WD5000HHTZ (Raid0), Sea... Samsung SH-222AB Corsair H100 Quad-Fan - CPU Corsair H80/H80 - 6990 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
7 Ultimate x64 SP1 3x Samsung S27A750D in Eyefinity Microsoft Sidewinder X6 Corsair AX1200 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Cooler Master Haf X (Temp Case) NZXT Avatar S (Black) Xtrac PADS RIPPER XXL Razer Megalodon/Maelstrom Audio Engine 7.1 
AudioAudioAudio
Sony CECHYA-0080 Wireless Headset/Onboard Realt... Harman/Kardon AVR 1600 - Sony SAVS-150H 7.1 Spe... Harman/Kardon 330A - Cinema Acoustics CSX-1200 ... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel C2D E6700 (Conroe) @ 3.6Ghz Intel D975XBX2 "Bad Axe 2" ATi Radeon X1950 Pro 4GB DualChan Corsair Dominator PC6400 @ 720Mhz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Old 130gb 5400rpm Seagate  SH22AB H60 Dual Fan Intake 
PowerCaseMouse Pad
Corsair TX750v2 NZXT Apollo None 
  hide details  
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7 3770k @ 4.5/1.26v ASUS Maximus Formula V XFX R290X 16GB CORSAIR DOMINATOR GT DDR3 2133Mhz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
x2 WD WD2500HHTZ, x2 WD WD5000HHTZ (Raid0), Sea... Samsung SH-222AB Corsair H100 Quad-Fan - CPU Corsair H80/H80 - 6990 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
7 Ultimate x64 SP1 3x Samsung S27A750D in Eyefinity Microsoft Sidewinder X6 Corsair AX1200 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Cooler Master Haf X (Temp Case) NZXT Avatar S (Black) Xtrac PADS RIPPER XXL Razer Megalodon/Maelstrom Audio Engine 7.1 
AudioAudioAudio
Sony CECHYA-0080 Wireless Headset/Onboard Realt... Harman/Kardon AVR 1600 - Sony SAVS-150H 7.1 Spe... Harman/Kardon 330A - Cinema Acoustics CSX-1200 ... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel C2D E6700 (Conroe) @ 3.6Ghz Intel D975XBX2 "Bad Axe 2" ATi Radeon X1950 Pro 4GB DualChan Corsair Dominator PC6400 @ 720Mhz 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Old 130gb 5400rpm Seagate  SH22AB H60 Dual Fan Intake 
PowerCaseMouse Pad
Corsair TX750v2 NZXT Apollo None 
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