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Lightly Used Computer, How Often To Drain?

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
Ok, so I originally installed the loop in January 2013 with XSPC kit and kill coil. Flushed and reinstalled in March with new EK copper 680 block.

Only run it on weekends and sometimes only for 5 minutes if I can't get on.

When should I flush? I can't see the coil in the res anymore but it was slightly brownish in some areas when I flushed in March. Next time I'm using PT Nuke and anti-corrosion as well.

PS Do I need to open the blocks next time I drain?
post #2 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhoKnew22 View Post

Ok, so I originally installed the loop in January 2013 with XSPC kit and kill coil. Flushed and reinstalled in March with new EK copper 680 block.

Only run it on weekends and sometimes only for 5 minutes if I can't get on.

When should I flush? I can't see the coil in the res anymore but it was slightly brownish in some areas when I flushed in March. Next time I'm using PT Nuke and anti-corrosion as well.

PS Do I need to open the blocks next time I drain?

if you noticed ANY corrosion (not brown slime) then I would crack open the blocks. Next time you do a refill, just use distilled water and 10% Water Wetter... get one of the silver "finger" G1/4 plugs and put it anywhere in the loop. I'm running two WC machine right now. One has Aquacomputer Double Protect in for 18 months - no signs of any deposits. the other (parkbench) has been running (24/7) for only 3 months with water wetter - great stuff.
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x99
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z170/z270
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x79
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CPUCPUMotherboardGraphics
i7 5960X i7 6950X Asus Rampage V Extreme (STD and model-10) 2 GTX TitanX w/ EK Blocks & Backplates 
GraphicsGraphicsRAMHard Drive
Nvidia Tesla C-class 2 GTX Titan X Pascal (water cooled) GSkill 3200c14 TZs 8x8GB @ 3400c13 Intel 750 NVMe 400GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Plextor 256GB M6e M.2 2x Plextor SSD 256 Raid 0 (Win 7) Samsung NVMe 950 Pro M.2 Plextor 810 
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Aquacomputer GiGant 1680 (4x420) external Rad XSPC RX360 Koolance 380i Laing DDC-1T (2) 
CoolingOSOSOS
Koolance EXC-800 Chiller Windows 10 x64  Windows 7 Pro Linux Mint 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
ASUS Swift 1440P 144Hz Seiki 50" 4K monitor (720P-2160i) 240-30Hz Das Keyboard Model S Pro Corsair AX1500i 
CaseMouseAudioOther
MicroCool Banchetto 101 Steelseries Rival Ultimate Ears TF10 Koolance Pump/Fan Controller 
CPUCPUCPUMotherboard
i5 6600K i7 7700K i3 7350 ASUS Max iX APEX, Asrock MOCF, M8Impact 
GraphicsGraphicsGraphicsRAM
ASUS GTX 1080 Turbo ASUS GTX 960 Mini EVGA GTX 550Ti G.Skill 3600c15 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
G.Skill 4266c19 Samsung SM951 WD VR 300 Intel 750 NVMe U.2 
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Mushkin 512 Intel 600 NVMe Raid0 Plextor DVD ROM Custom Water (Koolance 380i / XSPC 360v2) 
CoolingOSOSOS
Corsair H80iV2 (M8I) Windows 10 Pro Window 7 Linux Mint 
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Seiki 4K AOC 1080P Ducky Cherry Black Silverstone 500W SFX form factor/ Seasonic 760W 
CaseMouseAudio
Bench Logitech G700s Ultimate Ears TF10s 
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i7 4960X @ 4.7 Asus Rampage IV Black Edition R9 295x2 w/ Koolance Block G Skill 2400 c9 (@ 2133c8) 
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Plextor 512 SSD VelociRaptor 600GB WD Black 2T 4 Terabyte NAS 
Optical DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
Asus BluRay R/W Lite On  AquaComputer 720XT Koolance 380i 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Liang DCC Aux Pump Win10x64 Samsung U28D590 4K/60 (primary) SteelSeries G6 (Cherry Red) 
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post #3 of 6
The stationary water is actually more prone to ionic leaching. That can increase the possibility of corrosion. However the fewer metals you have is the loop of different kinds the less likely it to actually happen. http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/24/corrosion-explored/
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post #4 of 6
With water loops its the more use the better. If the machine is only on very seldom then I would change the water every 12 months. Personally I have my comp on almost 24/7 and its been about 2 years since the the initial fill up. Its starting to get a wee bit murky so I should probably change it soon tongue.gif
    
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post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 
I was afraid of leaching with there being no flow through the silver, is the consensus to drain/check blocks in January 2014?

Also checked out that Water Wetter, very interesting...
post #6 of 6
If your system isn't on most of the time I would ditch the kill coil and go for a liquid biocide, as the kill coil isn't working if liquid isn't flowing around it. I would get an anti corrosive if your system is off most of the time, because, as stated before, it's more likely to corrode.

I wouldn't go with PT nuke, and instead go with Mayhems Biocide Extreme. It's a biocide, anti-corrosive, anti-scaling agent, and a PH balancer. It also comes with PH test strips tongue.gif

You should only /need/ to replace your liquid in it's entirety every year or so, however if a problem occurs, you should drain and refill, obviously.
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