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Double mounted radiator, will it work? - Page 4

post #31 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by Im Batman View Post




Hey, I actually have the setup you're asking about. I'm actually going to change it up because someone mentioned that I was pushing warm(hot) air through the second fan which doesn't make sense. I haven't changed it yet though. I'm not in the same country as my computer at the moment. It was my first experience with water cooling... I love it, I learned so much.

post #32 of 38
you dont want to put the h100 rad into a custom loop. the rad is aluminum and will cause any copper, brass or nickel part to corrode quicker than you can say "time to drain my loop." go full custom or keep the h100. personally i would sell it or build another system with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

I'm not a fan of those tests. (no pun intended)

They fail to list the static pressure of the fans used in them, let alone the model of the fan. They also fail to list the fin thickness, or fins per inch of the radiators used. I would like to see some tests performed with some properly high static pressure fans (Like the Delta 252 fans) with low FPI radiators. Then measure the CFM at the exit of the rads, and compare that to two separate rads with the same CFM on the rads exit.

Those tests are inconclusive at best, but to tell us that under normal circumstances it is highly impractical.

it wasnt martin who did the test. it was hesmelaugh. you obviously didnt read the article or read the linked to article of the test/review.
he used magicool 360 slim rads which have a thickness of 30mm and 14fpi. the fans were three Nanoxia fans whose stats of which only give the cfm of 47.7

i guess you could have read the review of the test, read the test results, and googled and found even more. i did before this thread was ever started.
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post #33 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

you dont want to put the h100 rad into a custom loop. the rad is aluminum and will cause any copper, brass or nickel part to corrode quicker than you can say "time to drain my loop." go full custom or keep the h100. personally i would sell it or build another system with it.

it wasnt martin who did the test. it was hesmelaugh. you obviously didnt read the article or read the linked to article of the test/review.
he used magicool 360 slim rads which have a thickness of 30mm and 14fpi. the fans were three Nanoxia fans whose stats of which only give the cfm of 47.7

i guess you could have read the review of the test, read the test results, and googled and found even more. i did before this thread was ever started.

Was that directed at both of us?
 
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post #34 of 38
it was directed at ZytheEKS. you deafboy, read the review at least and have given info in other threads. i know you know whats up. i linked your quote so anyone reading would know what was referred to.

*EDITED* (to add more info on his other post)
claiming air temps isnt the problem but airflow restriction is tells only half of it. you do need sufficient airflow to overcome the restriction but also, the air temp IS important as each of the tested rad set-ups prove. i wish he would have read the entire thread in both forums rather than skimming an article referencing the test (actually testS)and missing so much information.
Edited by pc-illiterate - 5/31/13 at 4:54pm
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post #35 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

it was directed at ZytheEKS. you deafboy, read the review at least and have given info in other threads. i know you know whats up. i linked your quote so anyone reading would know what was referred to.

*EDITED* (to add more info on his other post)
claiming air temps isnt the problem but airflow restriction is tells only half of it. you do need sufficient airflow to overcome the restriction but also, the air temp IS important as each of the tested rad set-ups prove. i wish he would have read the entire thread in both forums rather than skimming an article referencing the test (actually testS)and missing so much information.

Gotcha, lol, I figured that was the case but just thought it'd check.
 
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post #36 of 38
The H100 from corsair is a closed system... so... they wouldn't be interacting with each other. O.o
post #37 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gawlron View Post

The H100 from corsair is a closed system... so... they wouldn't be interacting with each other. O.o
We'd been talking about splicing the h100 rad into a custom loop.
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post #38 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

you dont want to put the h100 rad into a custom loop. the rad is aluminum and will cause any copper, brass or nickel part to corrode quicker than you can say "time to drain my loop." go full custom or keep the h100. personally i would sell it or build another system with it.

After the discussion Crappy and I had about his mod I decided to not incorporate the H100 into the loop simply because of the difficulties associated with the ribbed tubing and pump capabilities etc but as you say it wouldn't work anyway with the rad being aluminium.

What i'm going to do is go with the XSPC Raystrom RX360 kit and add some Primochill Advanced LRT tubing, XSPC chrome compression fitting and some GT AP-15 fans instead of the stock fans. As for the liquid i'll be running it will just be distilled water with Primochill Liquid Utopia as my anti-corrosive / anti-biocide.

For the moment ill just include the CPU in the actual water cooling loop with the rad mounted in the top of the case and separate to the loop ill use the H100 to cool the GPU, ill mount the rad as indicated in one of the pictures I posted to the rear of the hard drive bays.

Later when i'm more confident in my ability to build a water cooling system ill add my VGA to the loop and either sell the H100 or save it for another system, either way its not going to waste for a fair while.

Thanks for all the help guys, appreciate it.
Edited by Im Batman - 6/2/13 at 2:28am
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