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Watercooled NZXT. Phantom questions and opinions - Page 2

post #11 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post

1.184

LOL!!!!

What is the hardest thing you run on your PC?

Do you fold because if not I can't see a scenario where you would be running both the GPU and the CPU at 100%... I don't know of any rendering program that can run cuda at 100% while also running the CPU at 100% in fact I don't know of any that can run cuda at 100% period. Games def do not run both at 100% just the GPU the CPU is always at partial load.

I would look at the temperatures that you get while under load while rendering.

Your temps are not too high and I doubt they would get that high in anything but folding.

Also 1.284 auto voltage??? What does that mean. Does that mean you auto overclocked? Because auto OC always turns the voltage up higher than it needs to be in order to ensure stability.

At 4.2GHz you should be able to severely reduce the voltage which will decrease the temp a lot.

Also here is a screen shot of my system with both the GPU and CPU running this is with 25c ambient and the radiator is not even warm. I would say that being you have (2) graphics cards, are running a higher voltage, and you are not delidded that your loop is performing just fine!


Hi givemedw, sorry for the very late reply (life got in the way during the past few months). The hardest thing I run would be 3ds max while rendering with mental ray then. I think it supports cuda rendering but the 670's aren't supported last time I checked.

I also have a bad habit (i think?) of leaving photoshop or autocad/ 3ds max idle and start to play a game (gta4 is probably the most cpu intensive game that i play?) but I do not think this should have any affect on temps?

I currently re-arranged my loop and now my 120.3 rad is now external and is running 6 Scythe slipstreams. I also added a second dcp4.0 pump, a NZXT sentry mesh fan controller and a cooler master device module (3 5.25" to 4 3.5" hdd bays). I did a short stress test and I think temps were 2-3 degrees lower (but I forgot to take a ss. D: )

Right now though, I had a weird idea to open up my waterblocks and clean them (and something else winkwinknudgenudge) and found this on the CPU Block:





I assume this is plasticizer? I cleaned them up and now my block is clean.

I also checked my GPU blocks and found this on both blocks:







It looks like something got burnt while water was sort of by-passing the block? I tried washing it in warm water and it didn't anything. I want to try metal polish but I am unsure if that's safe?

Anyways, other pics!



Moved the rear 120.1 rad in p/p from rear to 2nd top fan slot. I have the 120.3 rad externally placed (and sitting behind the case) in push pull as well..



New and more silent fans for the 120.2 rad inside the case. Blue led lighting is a plus! (I read that their static pressure level is okay for low FPI radiators like the EK XTX series?)



2nd pump in series with first pump. I can run them at half power and it's more silent now! biggrin.gif



Cooler master Device module 4-in-1. Converts 3x 5.25" bays into 4x 3.5" hdd bays with a fan for cooling.. Should I cover the coolermaster logo?



Trying to "massage" my wires so that they stay put and look cleaner. I'm also doing this to the rest of the wires so that my cpu case doesn't look so messy. XD

Thanks again in advance!
post #12 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walalang023 View Post


Thanks again in advance!

Don't use metal polish on a nickel plated block.

From my understanding the plasticizer stays on the inside of the tubing and just fogs it up but I could be wrong. That is obviously some nasty stuff that was in your block. I would recommend that you use ethylene glycol to make sure it wasn't caused by something else besides the plasticizer. You can get swiftech hydrx for dirt cheap but I would recommend feser base since it is clear and doesn't have any color additives.
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post #13 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post

Don't use metal polish on a nickel plated block.

From my understanding the plasticizer stays on the inside of the tubing and just fogs it up but I could be wrong. That is obviously some nasty stuff that was in your block. I would recommend that you use ethylene glycol to make sure it wasn't caused by something else besides the plasticizer. You can get swiftech hydrx for dirt cheap but I would recommend feser base since it is clear and doesn't have any color additives.

Aww, I guess ketchup or white vinegar diluted in water will be okay? This makes me nervous to touch it now XD.

Hmmm, I think I read something somewhere that some plasticizer does move around the loop and can get stuck in a waterblock or radiator (ouch). It could also be some left over flux that i had not gotten rid of while washing the radiators?

I am currently using EK Ekoolant UV-Blue. From what I understand this is also glyclol based? I'm severely limited to the wc gear I can get over here frown.gif

Thanks again!
post #14 of 14
If it is ethylene glycol based you can almost be certain it wasn't corrosion related. That would leave plasticizer as probably the only thing that could have caused that issue besides the coolant itself (uv stuff) breaking down.
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