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3930K Idling at 50c - Page 2

post #11 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blindsay View Post


I know, but its supposed to be if needed as you say. my point is that its staying there all the time even idle

 

Exactly, which is why I think it could be either the Windows power setting, or it could be C1E and EIST.

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post #12 of 31
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Sometimes it's due to the Power Options settings in Windows. Try this:
  1. Open the Start Menu
  2. Type edit po (for Edit Power Plan) and press Enter
  3. Press Enter again to select Change advanced power settings
  4. Scroll down (don't use the mouse wheel unless you select one of the parents of the options in the tree structure)
  5. Look for Processor power management and expand it
  6. Expand "Minimum processor state" and change the setting to 0%
  7. Click OK
  8. Close the other window

The change should take place immediately. If nothing changes, then restart Windows. If the change doesn't take place after that, then this may not have been the reason for the lack of idling down in which case it would be that you need to enable C1E and Enhanced Intel Speedstep Technology.



After a restart I am seeing it drop to lower multipliers now in cpu-z but it didn't help the temps so its likely just some air bubbles to work out.

Thank you
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post #13 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blindsay View Post


After a restart I am seeing it drop to lower multipliers now in cpu-z but it didn't help the temps so its likely just some air bubbles to work out.

Thank you

 

I wasn't expecting this to help with the idle temps because your load temps are a lot higher than I would expect for this. However, I also don't know what should be normal either.

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post #14 of 31
When the multiplier drops does the voltage as well? Let you computer sit there for a bit and make sure you're dropping into the .9v rang on idle. If temps are still high (ambient air temps isnt helping here) try reapplying TIM. Air bubbles aren't going to make temps that high unless there's more air than water in there.
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post #15 of 31
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BiaBia View Post

When the multiplier drops does the voltage as well? Let you computer sit there for a bit and make sure you're dropping into the .9v rang on idle. If temps are still high (ambient air temps isnt helping here) try reapplying TIM. Air bubbles aren't going to make temps that high unless there's more air than water in there.

Yes the voltage is dropping to about that
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post #16 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blindsay View Post


Yes the voltage is dropping to about that

 

I say it's the cooler or maybe even the CPU because your load temps after 5 minutes in Prime95 at stock are getting up to about 75. So far, I think you and I are the only ones who are paying attention to this fact.

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post #17 of 31
It's not that no one else is paying attention to that fact, it's that when troubleshooting you should always take care of the easy/cheap stuff first. Reapplying TIM costs $1 and takes 10 minutes of your time. Replacing the cooler or CPU is a rather drastic steps that might not even solve the issue.
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post #18 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by BiaBia View Post

It's not that no one else is paying attention to that fact, it's that when troubleshooting you should always take care of the easy/cheap stuff first. Reapplying TIM costs $1 and takes 10 minutes of your time. Replacing the cooler or CPU is a rather drastic steps that might not even solve the issue.

 

I'm not saying replace the cooler or CPU (when did I ever say that?), I'm saying to do what gregg1494 is suggesting: tap or flick the tubes with your finger and also turn the system off and back on again. I don't know why turning the system off and back on again would work, but it was a part of what helped Greg so why not? Like he said, the same thing happened to him with his new H110: his CPU idled at 55 and after all that it went down to 28.

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250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (OS) 3 TB Toshiba P300 (storage) Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner 
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Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO 
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Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate Basic, but premium round 
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post #19 of 31
Turning the system off and back on again turns the pump off, this gives the air bubbles a chance to settle and then get hit with flow again. Sounds goofy but it does loosen them up. When I bleed my loop I drop the speed of my pump super low then full blast a few times to help clear the lines. Same practice in theory.

I never said that you recommended to change the cpu or cooler thumb.gif

One other thing...was there plastic on the bottom of the heatsink? I hate asking but just to cover all bases, did you remove it?
Edited by BiaBia - 6/2/13 at 10:58am
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post #20 of 31
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BiaBia View Post

Turning the system off and back on again turns the pump off, this gives the air bubbles a chance to settle and then get hit with flow again. Sounds goofy but it does loosen them up. When I bleed my loop I drop the speed of my pump super low then full blast a few times to help clear the lines. Same practice in theory.

I never said that you recommended to change the cpu or cooler thumb.gif

One other thing...was there plastic on the bottom of the heatsink? I hate asking but just to cover all bases, did you remove it?

yeah I removed it, especially because I have already taken the cooler out and reapplied better thermal compound
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