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Watercool 79X0 mounting and pump question

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
Alright, I've gotten everything thrown together. I installed the 79X0 on my 7970 last night (Which was really quite difficult to install) I was wondering, are you supposed to use the stock backplate mount on the 79X0? or just install all the screws? the instructions were hazy on this detail.

Also is XSPC K2 paste conductive? The only other paste I had on me was AS5, and I know that's conductive. So I used the AS5 on my Raystorm in a pea pattern, and did a X pattern with the K2 on my 7970


Also is it normal to have your 7970 flex like crazy when installing it into your computer? :v it scared me but I figured that it was probably normal




ALSO would it be possible to hook up my PMP 400 pump power cord to the CPU fan slot? That way I could monitor the speed and have it shutdown if it quits.
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post #2 of 13
The Heatkiller waterblock is quite simple to install actually, not sure why you found it difficult, all the screws included in the block are same size so there's no way you can do a mistake on this.

To answer your question, NO, you do NOT need the X-Plate when running the waterblock, that's only for the stock reference heatsink. Looking at your first picture (Without X-Plate), everything looks well installed. smile.gif

As to the card bending, I believe it's a bit normal for the card to bend slightly with all the weight from the waterblock, it also happens to air cooled cards with big non-reference heatsinks. If you want to reduce the bending, I believe the Heatkiller backplate could help, I'm getting 2 my self for my pair of HD7970's. thumb.gif

Hope I could help.
    
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post #3 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcuestag View Post

The Heatkiller waterblock is quite simple to install actually, not sure why you found it difficult, all the screws included in the block are same size so there's no way you can do a mistake on this.

To answer your question, NO, you do NOT need the X-Plate when running the waterblock, that's only for the stock reference heatsink. Looking at your first picture (Without X-Plate), everything looks well installed. smile.gif


As to the card bending, I believe it's a bit normal for the card to bend slightly with all the weight from the waterblock, it also happens to air cooled cards with big non-reference heatsinks. If you want to reduce the bending, I believe the Heatkiller backplate could help, I'm getting 2 my self for my pair of HD7970's. thumb.gif

Hope I could help.

Ha awesome. I'll be ordering a backplate as soon as they're in stock. Also, the block wasn't that hard to install, getting the reference cooler OFF was next to impossible. I spent an hour wrestling with it.

For the XSPC raystorm, I just need to tighten all the bolts in a cross pattern until its really tight, right?

For leak testing, 8-12 hours with the pump on? off? 24 hours??

thanks for all the help OCN, you've saved me this time thumb.gif
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post #4 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxhaloownerxx View Post

Ha awesome. I'll be ordering a backplate as soon as they're in stock. Also, the block wasn't that hard to install, getting the reference cooler OFF was next to impossible. I spent an hour wrestling with it.

For the XSPC raystorm, I just need to tighten all the bolts in a cross pattern until its really tight, right?

For leak testing, 8-12 hours with the pump on? off? 24 hours??

thanks for all the help OCN, you've saved me this time thumb.gif

Yeah, when applying thermal paste on the CPU, I normally put the block and tighten the screws clock wise slightly on each then cross pattern. As for leak testing, I normally do 6-8 hours but doing more if you're a patient person won't hurt. smile.gif
    
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post #5 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxhaloownerxx View Post

Ha awesome. I'll be ordering a backplate as soon as they're in stock. Also, the block wasn't that hard to install, getting the reference cooler OFF was next to impossible. I spent an hour wrestling with it.

For the XSPC raystorm, I just need to tighten all the bolts in a cross pattern until its really tight, right?

For leak testing, 8-12 hours with the pump on? off? 24 hours??

thanks for all the help OCN, you've saved me this time thumb.gif

Test for as long as you want but with the pump on for sure. Test with a seperate power supply that feeds the pump only.

My pumps are PWM and I was able to alter the wiring so that the pump is fed from the power supply but the RPM and control go to the motherboard. I get RMP and can control speed.

The pictures I see of the PMP 400 show a 3 pin header. This should work with the CPU fan header if it can supply enough power from your MB.
post #6 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgdeaner View Post

Test for as long as you want but with the pump on for sure. Test with a seperate power supply that feeds the pump only.

My pumps are PWM and I was able to alter the wiring so that the pump is fed from the power supply but the RPM and control go to the motherboard. I get RMP and can control speed.

The pictures I see of the PMP 400 show a 3 pin header. This should work with the CPU fan header if it can supply enough power from your MB.

Gotcha! I think I'll end up using a Molex -> PWM converter that came with my gentle typhoons, and just sleeve them, then plug one of them into the CPU fan header.

Also, what is the best way to bleed rads? Every time I tilt my case huge air bubbles come out of the rad, I turn the pump back on, but then get sucked right back in :\
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post #7 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxhaloownerxx View Post

Gotcha! I think I'll end up using a Molex -> PWM converter that came with my gentle typhoons, and just sleeve them, then plug one of them into the CPU fan header.

Also, what is the best way to bleed rads? Every time I tilt my case huge air bubbles come out of the rad, I turn the pump back on, but then get sucked right back in :\

I have the best luck bleeding with the pump on. I attach one hose high on the loop on the return side to release air, and one hose feeding the resevoir. Otherwise you have to shake the case with the pump off to get the bubbles into your res then displace them with fluid. There are some good how to videos.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1185791/how-to-bleed-a-water-cooling-loop
post #8 of 13
Thread Starter 
I got everything running and I'm on my desktop again. I got MOST of the air bubbles out, but there are still a few stragglers here and there. Do they make a huge difference in temps if they're in the rad?

My only complaints about WC'ing so far is that the pump is really loud. Idk if its just mine or what, but its pretty loud.

Also I think I need to reset my raystorm. CPU idles at 34 on core 0. 25C on the rest. Maxes out at 54C. Which isn't awful, but at stock speeds I was hoping for something better.

My 7970 is maxing at 40C and idles at 23C. Very happy with the heatkiller.
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post #9 of 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by xxhaloownerxx View Post

I got everything running and I'm on my desktop again. I got MOST of the air bubbles out, but there are still a few stragglers here and there. Do they make a huge difference in temps if they're in the rad?

My only complaints about WC'ing so far is that the pump is really loud. Idk if its just mine or what, but its pretty loud.

Also I think I need to reset my raystorm. CPU idles at 34 on core 0. 25C on the rest. Maxes out at 54C. Which isn't awful, but at stock speeds I was hoping for something better.

My 7970 is maxing at 40C and idles at 23C. Very happy with the heatkiller.

What pump is it? I have the Laing D5 and it's dead quiet. smile.gif
    
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post #10 of 13
Thread Starter 
I have the PMP 400. Its upside down, but its still pretty loud. I can't tell if its just air bubbles stuck in there, or maybe vibrations, or maybe it just runs loud at 4K RPM's. I'm really not sure. I'm still finding large air bubbles in my loop, bleeding them one day at a time thumb.gif

My loop goes like this res->Pump->rad1->heatkiller->raystorm-)rad2->res. Could it be all the hot water from the heatkiller that's killing my raystorm temps?
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