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New Primochill Rigid tubing - Page 3

post #21 of 143
Wow, that's really well thought out. I never considered a acrylic before because those BP crystal links didn't retain the tubing and I would always worry about that. These newer fittings seem to fix that problem, finally a real compression fitting for acrylic that looks good too. Also the silicone bending cord sure make the bending process easy compared to without. You could pretty easily make some wooden radius/routing jigs to get it perfect that way.

Last but not least, colored! Was just thinking about that and there you go. Now you can have nicely colored acrylic tubing and run low maintenance and high performance distilled rather than messing with dyes. I like it!!thumb.gif
Edited by Martinm210 - 6/5/13 at 10:46pm
    
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post #22 of 143
If your in the US, and in a hurry, try autozone to pick up some windshield or fuel line hose, it's usually behind the counter, choose your size accordingly. It's around $1.00 a ft. Make sure to wipe the white lettering, or it will imprint in the first tube.
If you have a bit of patience, eBay is full of US based silicone tube sellers, 10' for $4.00 takes about 3 days to arrive,

Best bet, in my opinion is E22.biz, for the silicone, they sell the tubing and fittings as well.

I have bent a lot of acrylic, in practice I havent really seen much of a difference in using solid tube or fuel line, i actually found it a bit easier to use fuel line than solid, as it will pull out from complex compound bends easier. But like any type of modding, what works for me may or may not work for someone else.
post #23 of 143
Thanks for the vids, the GF and I were talking about acrylic tubing the other day. thumb.gif
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post #24 of 143
I MUST HAVE!
post #25 of 143
Can anyone recommend the best way to cut these things? Would general copper pipe cutters work?
 
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post #26 of 143
a fine tooth saw would probably work the best
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post #27 of 143
Yeah, I think a copper pipe cutter would induce too much stress on the ends and could lead to cracking.

I would suggest a 1/4 angle grinder or a dremel with a cut off wheel to make more of a sanded cut through. Ever since I had an angle grinder with cut off wheel, I find mysef using it to cut allost everything. It leaves some meltage behind but nice smooth chipnfree cutting and you can usually clean up the melted burs easily.

Maybe a fine toothed hacksaw blade or simiar as well. It is acrylic though so I would just be cautious about stressing via agressive cutting or cooling too quickly.
Edited by Martinm210 - 6/6/13 at 12:48pm
    
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post #28 of 143
Would these fittings be compatible with US 1/2" copper tube?
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post #29 of 143
Dude... Thanks for posting! I was so very close to purchasing the E22 tubing and C47 fittings. thumb.gif
post #30 of 143
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martinm210 View Post

Yeah, I think a copper pipe cutter would induce too much stress on the ends and could lead to cracking.

I would suggest a 1/4 angle grinder or a dremel with a cut off wheel to make more of a sanded cut through. Ever since I had an angle grinder with cut off wheel, I find mysef using it to cut allost everything. It leaves some meltage behind but nice smooth chipnfree cutting and you can usually clean up the melted burs easily.

Maybe a fine toothed hacksaw blade or simiar as well. It is acrylic though so I would just be cautious about stressing via agressive cutting or cooling too quickly.

i'm thinking more along the lines of a scroll saw or a band saw if you have either, maybe a jigsaw clamped upside down in a vise with metal/plastic blade, i'd go for a dovetail saw before a hacksaw with how much the blades flex
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