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post #11 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by korruptedkaos View Post

well that config of rads isn't the best ive seen>Res -> Pump -> Rad -> Rad -> CPU -> (GPU / GPU) -> Res, heat in the res building up can cause acrylic to crack? happened to a EK-Multioption res I had.

also having the pump after the res the way you would have it would cause the pump to run hotter than it would need to, reducing its life effectively!
what? of course it does! heat rises no matter where it is? even if its flowing, it has a habit of dissipating to the nearest conducter!

hmm I thought watercooling is about performance!

Loop order really doesn't matter. I just reversed mine from pump->CPU->GPU->Rad->res to res->pump->rad->GPU->cpu and my temperatures are within 1C of the previous loop order.. The only thing that matters for loop order is that the pump comes after the reservoir, and that the water level of the reservoir is physically above the pump inlet. As long as you meet that criteria you're only goal is to reduce the length of tubing and (if aesthetics matter) make it look clean.
   
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post #12 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shpongle View Post

Loop order really doesn't matter. I just reversed mine from pump->CPU->GPU->Rad->res to res->pump->rad->GPU->cpu and my temperatures are within 1C of the previous loop order.. The only thing that matters for loop order is that the pump comes after the reservoir, and that the water level of the reservoir is physically above the pump inlet. As long as you meet that criteria you're only goal is to reduce the length of tubing and (if aesthetics matter) make it look clean.

what if you put your rad between the cpu & gpu though?

ok guys if you say so?

I mean my own experience is useless I guess?

I never had a res crack because of heat building up in it?
I never had a pump die after about 18 months from probably running to hot?

I know nothing 'as all my gear are toasters compared to yours' lol
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post #13 of 21
The only ways I'm aware of an acrylic reservoir cracking are faulty product, misuse, or being in contact with alcohol.

DDC pumps run very hot and in most cases should be paired with a heat sink. D5 pumps are cooled by the water. The only other thing I can think is if you had way too little radiator and allowed your water temp to exceed the rated running temperature of the pump.
post #14 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrocutor View Post

The only ways I'm aware of an acrylic reservoir cracking are faulty product, misuse, or being in contact with alcohol.

DDC pumps run very hot and in most cases should be paired with a heat sink. D5 pumps are cooled by the water. The only other thing I can think is if you had way too little radiator and allowed your water temp to exceed the rated running temperature of the pump.

nope heat in a tube res can build up! it was effectively the same rad space I have 2x 240 & a 120, im now using a 360 + 240?

I had pumps running in series aswell though at opposite ends of the loop? so I don't think it was flow?

the res use to collect up heat as it was warm to touch? the pump that died was directly below it?

I put it down to the orientation of the loop?
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post #15 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by korruptedkaos View Post

what if you put your rad between the cpu & gpu though?

ok guys if you say so?

I mean my own experience is useless I guess?

I never had a res crack because of heat building up in it?
I never had a pump die after about 18 months from probably running to hot?

I know nothing 'as all my gear are toasters compared to yours' lol

I never meant to imply that. I'm sure that plenty of users have had an acrylic res crack due to heat or stress. I was just stating that, as a rule of thumb, loop order is only important when it comes to the pump and reservoir.

Which res were you using that cracked? Hopefully it wasn't an Alphacool res ph34r-smiley.gif
   
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post #16 of 21
I have had my EK 240 res for almost a year and a half. Zero problems with it.

If you are going to go cpu > Rad > gpu how? unless you have a 120 at the back your just adding more tubing for no reason.

Also all the question marks in your sentances are confusing the hell out of me lol.
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post #17 of 21
EK-Multioption ? crappy one I know!

anyway im just talking from the experience ive had from watercooling?

I mean ive prob done about 4 different orientations of rads & loop orders etc on my 920 build alone!

ive found that having a rad between cpu & gpu is the best imo , then having another rad before returning to the res keeps it all a lot cooler!
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post #18 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by iMica View Post

I have had my EK 240 res for almost a year and a half. Zero problems with it.

If you are going to go cpu > Rad > gpu how? unless you have a 120 at the back your just adding more tubing for no reason.

Also all the question marks in your sentances are confusing the hell out of me lol.

I question everything LOL

?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

IM ALWAYS WANDERING WHAT IF, WHAT IF?

IM INQUISITIVE?
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post #19 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrocutor View Post

I haven't experience with most of the components you have chosen, so can provide little advice there, but only use Indigo Xtreme if you're comfortable with the reflow process (read about it). It scares me too much to risk my $600 processor, but you may be braver than I.

I'm using Indigo Xtreme right now for my noctua fan, and the reflow process worked out alright. I'm pretty comfortable doing it again.

Quote:
Also all the question marks in your sentances are confusing the hell out of me lol.

That's because those sentences are questions, not statements lol
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post #20 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpurvis View Post

So I am planning for a future upgrade to my air-cooled system. I have never done it before, so I went to EKWB to check some things out, and I want to run this list of stuff by y'all and see if this is a good list, if there is anything missing, anything I don't need, or anything that's not compatible or you think something might do better.

PC Hardware:
MSI Z77 MPower MB
Core i7 3770K
2x EVGA Geforce GTX 660 Ti (SLI)

Potential Liquid Cooling HW:

EK-CoolStream RAD XT (360)
EK-FC670 GTX - Acetal + Nickel
EK-Supremacy - Acetal + Nickel
Laing D5 Vario 12V DC Pump (MCP 655)
EK-BAY SPIN Reservoir - Acetal CSQ
Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15 (1850rpm)
TUBE PrimoChill PrimoFlex™ Advanced LRT™ 15,9 / 11,1mm - Brilliant UV Blue (PFLEXA-758-B)
EK-CSQ Fitting 12/16mm G1/4 - Black
EK-RAD Mount M3 Set (for 1 FAN)
EK-Ekoolant UV BLUE (premix 1000mL)
EK-TIM Indigo Xtreme - Intel 1155&1156
Arctic Cooling MX-3 thermal compound (4g)

So opinions. Any parts missing? Anything I should swap out or don't really need? Better quality items from other brands? Please let me know what you think. Thanks.


The list looks solid to me, or though I cant see amounts of the different components.. Im assuming that you wont get only one fan, one GPU cooler and one fitting? tongue.gif
but I got a few changes I would make, was it my own build.

Im fairly sure there are screws with the radiator / fans.. dont think you will need a separate set unless youll need it for something specific?

Do they got MX-4? get that instead smile.gif

Why the TIM Indigo Xtreme? use the MX-3 or 4 instead smile.gif

A bit more Rad space wouldn't hurt! rule of thumb: 120mm pr. component + 120 (CPU + GPU + GPU + 120 = 2*240 / 360+120 or higher) it might work out with just the 360 though..

The loop order doesn't matter much, I would go with what makes most sense in your case.. would be "retarded" to go from CPU to a rad in the opposite end of the cab and then back to GPU. Try to get tubes as short as possible (loop order vice.. don't stretch em out, lol ;D)

Also, I see you are going for blue tubes and blue coolant? I would change the blue coolant to distilled water + adjectives / silver kill coil instead.. so many nasty stories about coloured coolant, leaving particles / goo in the water.. I tried it myself with clear water with only UV reagents and adjectives frown.gif but I guess there is some safe mixtures out there?
But since you have coloured tubing, why not keep it cheap / safe and go with distilled water?

Anyways, thats my 2cents.gif

*Edit*
It might also be a good idea to get a few 45 / 90 degree fittings.. they might get in handy down the road smile.gif
Edited by GaMbi2004 - 6/7/13 at 1:10pm
 
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