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post #11 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by wizardonthejob View Post

So your saying set the RAM to exactly the timings that are listed on the chip?
...

Yes, at least for now so you can be sure your ram is stable and not OC'd. I always like to overclock one component at a time, it makes it much easier in the long run.
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post #12 of 18
Thread Starter 
Sorry it's been so long since I have responded to this. I am still racking my brain on how to get this chip past 3.8 and stable. I would think that if I can at least get it logged into Windows at 4.0 (which I can) then I would be able to find a stable sweet spot. I have tried everything in the suggestions here except manually setting the memory timings. When I go into that option, there are about 30 different timings to set and I dont know which ones correspond to the standard #-#-#-## that is printed on the side of the chip. I did notice, however, with the BIOS set to auto for that, the timings on the chip and the readouts from Passmark match... so perhaps this is not my problem. I also tried with only 2 memory chips. I even tried some different memory.

I'm starting to think (as postulated before by someone) this motherboard just may not have what it takes to me me past 3.8. Which I guess was only going to gain me bragging rights and a 4.0 badge above my avatar. Back to the drawing board.
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post #13 of 18
tcl or cas= first
trcd or ras to cas= second
trp or row precharge=third

tras or row active strobe= fourth and biggest
post #14 of 18
Hi.
Please read this. Your mobo is known for high VRM failure rate,and it has a poor VRM count (just providing proof to make my point) , and I wouldn't suggest to try going over the current OC settings. But since you plan on OC'ing your chip anyway, read this and this, but I insist that you don't, not on that board man.

EDIT

And don't just bump up the voltages, that will give you only headaches and frustration. One step at a time, one voltage at a time. Procedure is
1.up the CPU multi by 0.5. Stress and anxiety test for 10 min. Go into BIOS and repeat. Do that until you BSOD or crash.
2. BIOS, raise CPU voltage (Vcore) one step and stress test. Do that until you find stability. Stress test for a good 4 hours. Max Vcore 1.5v.
Procedure is similar for NB Freq, you only up the multi and CPU/NB voltage (which helps to stabilise RAM and CPU as well). Max is 1.5v.
Edited by Grmadness - 6/20/13 at 5:47pm
   
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post #15 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grmadness View Post

Hi.
Please read this. Your mobo is known for high VRM failure rate,and it has a poor VRM count (just providing proof to make my point) , and I wouldn't suggest to try going over the current OC settings. But since you plan on OC'ing your chip anyway, read this and this, but I insist that you don't, not on that board man.

EDIT

And don't just bump up the voltages, that will give you only headaches and frustration. One step at a time, one voltage at a time. Procedure is
1.up the CPU multi by 0.5. Stress and anxiety test for 10 min. Go into BIOS and repeat. Do that until you BSOD or crash.
2. BIOS, raise CPU voltage (Vcore) one step and stress test. Do that until you find stability. Stress test for a good 4 hours. Max Vcore 1.5v.
Procedure is similar for NB Freq, you only up the multi and CPU/NB voltage (which helps to stabilise RAM and CPU as well). Max is 1.5v.

Is it safe to assume that the high failure rate for this board is due to lack of proper coolilng on the VRMs? One thing I learned before jumping into overclocking is that something that people often miss in their endeavours is to properly cool the motherboard and not just the CPU.



As you can see, I have added many passive coolers along what once were the hottest points on my board, effectively lowering the load temperatures in that area by almost 20c. The hottest point along this channel was at the end of the main VRM sink. Before adding these sinks, the temperature at that point, before overclocking, was 72c. I documented all temperatures with a laser thermal gun. Now, even after OC'ing, the max temp in that area is a mere 51c. I have a fan positioned below the sink sending constant air over these sinks. I think all of them working together is what has given me such an edge in this area. Please see my gallery for more detailed pics.

Is there any bearing to what I'm doing here or is there another reason for the VRM failure rate?

As for the rest, I am aware that just raising the voltage is not the key. A combination of all values working together to reach equalibrium is necessary. Finding the right combination has simply been my problem.

I havent had time to read all of the links you have posted, but I definately plan to before proceeding. Thankyou very much for the valuable information provided.
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post #16 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by wizardonthejob View Post

Is it safe to assume that the high failure rate for this board is due to lack of proper coolilng on the VRMs? One thing I learned before jumping into overclocking is that something that people often miss in their endeavours is to properly cool the motherboard and not just the CPU.



As you can see, I have added many passive coolers along what once were the hottest points on my board, effectively lowering the load temperatures in that area by almost 20c. The hottest point along this channel was at the end of the main VRM sink. Before adding these sinks, the temperature at that point, before overclocking, was 72c. I documented all temperatures with a laser thermal gun. Now, even after OC'ing, the max temp in that area is a mere 51c. I have a fan positioned below the sink sending constant air over these sinks. I think all of them working together is what has given me such an edge in this area. Please see my sig rig for more detailed pics.

Is there any bearing to what I'm doing here or is there another reason for the VRM failure rate?

As for the rest, I am aware that just raising the voltage is not the key. A combination of all values working together to reach equalibrium is necessary. Finding the right combination has simply been my problem.

I havent had time to read all of the links you have posted, but I definately plan to before proceeding. Thankyou very much for the valuable information provided.

why in the world would you put VRM heat sinks on the capacitors? the only heat they get is form surrounding components, technically those heat sinks are collecting heat and making them hotter.

is the board an MSI board? MSI are known for high VRM failure rate or were, http://www.overclock.net/a/database-of-motherboard-vrm-failure-incidents
Edited by cdoublejj - 6/20/13 at 6:30pm
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post #17 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdoublejj View Post

why in the world would you put VRM heat sinks on the capacitors? the only heat they get is form surrounding components, technically those heat sinks are collecting heat and making them hotter.

is the board an MSI board? MSI are known for high VRM failure rate or were, http://www.overclock.net/a/database-of-motherboard-vrm-failure-incidents

Perhaps you should go back and read my last post. You know, the part where I mentioned that not only did I overclock my board (600mhz) without raising temperatures, but I actually lowered them by an average of 20c If you think those sinks are making things hotter, I have a couple of questions. 1. Where are my lower temperatures coming from? 2. When did the job of a heat sink go from dispersing heat to generating it?

Yes, this is an MSI motherboard and yes, I know about the high failure rate, thanks to the wonderful information provided by Grmaddness (+1 btw). It was that information that spurred me to ask the question I asked in my last post (most of which I think you missed), "Is it safe to assume that the high failure rate for this board is due to lack of proper coolilng on (and around) the VRMs?"

Or is there some other reason besides heat that can cause a VRM to fail? Because as of now, heat is not an issue.
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Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 100 ... ModMyToys DreamFlex Premium 3/8" ID Tubing Reta... Coolance Liquid Coolant Bottle, 700mL Fluoresce... Coolance PMP 450 Variable Speed D5 Pump 
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Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 Pom version Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Full Copper Radiator 240 Noctua NF-A6X25 FLX Quiet Computer Cooling Fan ... NZXT Sentry Mesh Fan Controller w/ Five 30 watt... 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate Toshiba Regza 52" 1920 x 1080 @ 120Hz  Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5000 Keyboard and Mouse SeaSonic M12II 750 
CaseAudio
My TV Stand Cabinet Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX-4300 Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3 EVGA Geforce GTX 260 G.Skill Ripjaws X 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Corsair SSD Samsung 7200 Laptop drive Some DVD Burner I took out of a dead Dell. Noctua NH-C12P SE14 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell 19" 16:9 Logitec wireless Enermax 650w Apevia X-Cruiser3 Pink 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
A6-6400K Dual Core MSI A78M-E35 Onboard 4Gb G.Skill Ripjaws 1600Mhz (2 x 2) 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Intel 320 SSD Western Digital 2.5" 1Tb 7200rpm  LG External Blue-ray Combo Drive Noctual NH-L9a 92mm SS02 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit Toshiba Regza 52" 1080p Logitech K400 Antec EarthWatts Green EA-380D 
CaseAudioOther
A piece of plywood and some zip ties. Onboard Hauppauge WinTV HVR-2250 dual tuner card. 
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post #18 of 18
Ηi.
Actually, the Nikos Mosfets used by MSI are the reason. These things turn your mobo into a toaster. I encourage a good, thorough read of the link I provided (AMD VRM info database, the links under the AM2,AM2+ table). thumb.gif
   
Frappenstein
(12 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom ii x4 965 BE GA-MA-790FXT-UD5P Sapphire R9 290 Tri-x OC Kingston Value RAM 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Kingston Value RAM Seagate Barracuda (Died) WD Caviar Black Sony DVD/RW 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Sony DVD/RW Xigmatec Aegir SD128264 Win 7 Home Premium 64 bit LG 2443T 
PowerCase
ThermalTake Toughpower 800 (Non modular) ThermalTake Eureka 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Pentium 4 1.7Ghz Northwood Gigabyte GA-8ITX Creative GeForce3 Ti 500 Some generic Samsung 512Mb 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Hitachi 80 Gb Plextor CD-DVD RW  What was that again? Windows 98 SE  
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
15'' CRT Broken Yes,it has. Fridge 
MouseMouse PadAudio
In the lab for exeriments  To disect the mouse Audigy 3 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
5930k ASUS Rampage V Extreme Sapphire R9 290 Ripjaws V 2400MHz  
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Intel 750 Series 400GB WD Caviar Black 1 Tb H-100i Win 7 64 bit Ultimate 
PowerCase
Super Flower 1600W Platinum Coolermaster Cosmos2 
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Frappenstein
(12 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom ii x4 965 BE GA-MA-790FXT-UD5P Sapphire R9 290 Tri-x OC Kingston Value RAM 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Kingston Value RAM Seagate Barracuda (Died) WD Caviar Black Sony DVD/RW 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Sony DVD/RW Xigmatec Aegir SD128264 Win 7 Home Premium 64 bit LG 2443T 
PowerCase
ThermalTake Toughpower 800 (Non modular) ThermalTake Eureka 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Pentium 4 1.7Ghz Northwood Gigabyte GA-8ITX Creative GeForce3 Ti 500 Some generic Samsung 512Mb 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Hitachi 80 Gb Plextor CD-DVD RW  What was that again? Windows 98 SE  
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
15'' CRT Broken Yes,it has. Fridge 
MouseMouse PadAudio
In the lab for exeriments  To disect the mouse Audigy 3 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
5930k ASUS Rampage V Extreme Sapphire R9 290 Ripjaws V 2400MHz  
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Intel 750 Series 400GB WD Caviar Black 1 Tb H-100i Win 7 64 bit Ultimate 
PowerCase
Super Flower 1600W Platinum Coolermaster Cosmos2 
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Reply
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