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[Build Log] TJ07 - Restitution | Update: 10th February, I did some sleeving! - Page 2

post #11 of 83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fakeblood View Post

That was about all. Only reason I prefer was not having to stretch the cpu 8 pin up the back of the mobo...

Inverted requires modding of the backplate obviously so requires more work lol

Eh, just gonna grab the parts from CZ so it'd make the inversion quite easy. At the moment I'm planning to get;

Motherboard w/ Long Extension.
Top Window (Clear/Smoked, input?).
Backplate.
PSU cover (clear if Inverted ATX, no clear ones left for ATX so probably Hexx).
5.25" cover.
Midplate/Lightbox.
Maybe some other nice bits.

Obviously the backplate and covers depend on which motherboard orientation I go for.
post #12 of 83
Nice a TJ 07 build! Just got myself one of these beauties second hand and can't wait to see what ideas you have for this build!

Cold Zero makes some really good pieces out of acrylic but I was thinking of having them made from steel or aluminium instead. Just for the added rigidity and the feeling of doing things right.
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post #13 of 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by fr0st. View Post

Eh, just gonna grab the parts from CZ so it'd make the inversion quite easy. At the moment I'm planning to get;

Motherboard w/ Long Extension.
Top Window (Clear/Smoked, input?).
Backplate.
PSU cover (clear if Inverted ATX, no clear ones left for ATX so probably Hexx).
5.25" cover.
Midplate/Lightbox.
Maybe some other nice bits.

Obviously the backplate and covers depend on which motherboard orientation I go for.

That lists all the parts I have from CZ thumb.gif

The smoke top is nice, would recommend
post #14 of 83
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Balanar View Post

Nice a TJ 07 build! Just got myself one of these beauties second hand and can't wait to see what ideas you have for this build!

Cold Zero makes some really good pieces out of acrylic but I was thinking of having them made from steel or aluminium instead. Just for the added rigidity and the feeling of doing things right.

They're a great project case due to the easy break down process. Lots of fun.

I've used ChilledPC parts before and they were nice, but I like the continuity and I'm going to use the CZ parts regardless. I also like that they're flat black instead of glossy smile.gif

I trust CZ's quality. The Acrylic is pretty dang thick; plus I've only ever heard good things from people that've used them (although I would like that Hammond box.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fakeblood View Post

That lists all the parts I have from CZ thumb.gif

The smoke top is nice, would recommend

I was thinking of the smoke one too.

Thanks for you input guys!

//UPDATE #1:
I tore down the case today. There's so many little nicks and dings everywhere ;-; I think I'm going to have to put a coat of pain on the main body too.
Powdercoating would be nice, but it's mental expensive. I also can't do any painting until I go down south to visit my parents so that part will be slow progress too (July is when I'm going next).

I can always take some pictures of the torn down case, but that's just ruining the surprise tongue.gif
post #15 of 83
Glad to hear you're considering IATX, it's one of the unique features of having a TJ07. Like Fakeblood, and many others here, I have an assortment of CZ parts, but I also bought some Pulse modding parts from CPC before that.
I have the Pulse IATX backplate, and smoked top window.
One cool feature of IATX you may want to consider, is using a clear acrylic gpu block to see it through the top window. I purposely bought EK clear acrylic-topped blocks for that reason.

The Hammond boxes are handy for covering the front power switch pcb, and Charles used to use them for rad mounting in the original MurderMod cases, but I chose to use some rubber pads for rad stand spacing, and will be eliminating the front switch pcb for a Bulgin Vandal switch.

Your unibody needs painting as well? The builds I've seen that were sprayed often seem to have chipping and flaking issues down the road. I can see where powder coating could be pricey, although far more durable.
    
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post #16 of 83
Gotta sub for a TJ07 build. More so for a Inverted one.... *hint hint* tongue.gif
Take your time mate! Thats what Im doing with my build. Gotta gather everything up.
Cant wait to see some progress!
post #17 of 83
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerComissar View Post

Glad to hear you're considering IATX, it's one of the unique features of having a TJ07. Like Fakeblood, and many others here, I have an assortment of CZ parts, but I also bought some Pulse modding parts from CPC before that.
I have the Pulse IATX backplate, and smoked top window.
One cool feature of IATX you may want to consider, is using a clear acrylic gpu block to see it through the top window. I purposely bought EK clear acrylic-topped blocks for that reason.

The Hammond boxes are handy for covering the front power switch pcb, and Charles used to use them for rad mounting in the original MurderMod cases, but I chose to use some rubber pads for rad stand spacing, and will be eliminating the front switch pcb for a Bulgin Vandal switch.

Your unibody needs painting as well? The builds I've seen that were sprayed often seem to have chipping and flaking issues down the road. I can see where powder coating could be pricey, although far more durable.

One reason to go iATX is so I can get the clean iATX PSU plate seeing as there's no ATX PSU plates left frown.gif

I already have my 6990 and block (reusing some parts from current build, contemplating doing 6990 69x0 trifire if I can find a 69x0+matching block/backplate and get a nice PSU. Is the smoked window dark or just subtle?

Don't know weather to use vandal switch or keep it stock. I used a red-ring (love the ring vandals) switch before but then the three holes for LED's and the reset switch would be kinda useless. If I painted the outer U body piece I could cover those up with a filler and paint over. That could look nice biggrin.gif
Oh! Also if I used a Vandal switch I'd need to pick a secondary color for the rig. Hmmm...

One option is the get just the ubody powdercoated and then do the rest myself with rattle cans seeing as I can get a decent finish now after doing it 3-4 times on different cases. I'll see if my dad knows anyone that can get powdercoating done >smile.gif

Thanks for your input! Big help smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by WuMyster View Post

Gotta sub for a TJ07 build. More so for a Inverted one.... *hint hint* tongue.gif
Take your time mate! Thats what Im doing with my build. Gotta gather everything up.
Cant wait to see some progress!

Hah! Subtle wink.gif
I'd rather take my time and have something I'm happy with. After all it is my build not the viewers (as much as I want to please them) tongue.gif


Thank guys! thumb.gif
post #18 of 83
Quote:
Originally Posted by fr0st. View Post

One reason to go iATX is so I can get the clean iATX PSU plate seeing as there's no ATX PSU plates left frown.gif

I already have my 6990 and block (reusing some parts from current build, contemplating doing 6990 69x0 trifire if I can find a 69x0+matching block/backplate and get a nice PSU. Is the smoked window dark or just subtle?

Don't know weather to use vandal switch or keep it stock. I used a red-ring (love the ring vandals) switch before but then the three holes for LED's and the reset switch would be kinda useless. If I painted the outer U body piece I could cover those up with a filler and paint over. That could look nice biggrin.gif
Oh! Also if I used a Vandal switch I'd need to pick a secondary color for the rig. Hmmm...

One option is the get just the ubody powdercoated and then do the rest myself with rattle cans seeing as I can get a decent finish now after doing it 3-4 times on different cases. I'll see if my dad knows anyone that can get powdercoating done >smile.gif

Thanks for your input! Big help smile.gif
Hah! Subtle wink.gif
I'd rather take my time and have something I'm happy with. After all it is my build not the viewers (as much as I want to please them) tongue.gif


Thank guys! thumb.gif
The "clean" psu plate does look nice, I didn't care for the extra cutouts in the stock one either.
Lots of power in the 6990, that's a card worth keeping, as you already have a custom block on it. My smoked top is fairly subtle, still easy to see through, I figured it would be good with some lighting in the case.
I also went with the vandal switch for the nifty led ring. As you mentioned, you lose the leds and reset switch though. I have seen a couple builds where they still kept the pcb and leds and reset switch, by cutting a section of it out for the vandal switch, but it then needs some soldering and re-wiring to keep them working. Filling in the three holes would be slick, if they were later painted with the case. I'm not sure what kind of filler is compatible with powder coating though, as it's a different process than painting.

If you're good at painting already than that's up to you. If you are able to find a good powder coater though, then it may be worth it to get everything done at once, once all the modding is done to the panels, and the other silver interior pieces. It may not cost much more than just doing the unibody.

I found that after getting the pre-powder coated black Pulse Modding parts, and all of the CZ stuff in black, there wasn't much left that was still silver, so it cuts down on any painting or powder coating needed.

And do take your time, as WuMyster said.
I've been at it for nearly a year now!rolleyes.gif
Edited by DerComissar - 6/10/13 at 3:08pm
    
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post #19 of 83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerComissar View Post

The "clean" psu plate does look nice, I didn't care for the extra cutouts in the stock one either.
Lots of power in the 6990, that's a card worth keeping, as you already have a custom block on it. My smoked top is fairly subtle, still easy to see through, I figured it would be good with some lighting in the case.
I also went with the vandal switch for the nifty led ring. As you mentioned, you lose the leds and reset switch though. I have seen a couple builds where they still kept the pcb and leds and reset switch, by cutting a section of it out for the vandal switch, but it then needs some soldering and re-wiring to keep them working. Filling in the three holes would be slick, if they were later painted with the case. I'm not sure what kind of filler is compatible with powder coating though, as it's a different process than painting.

If you're good at painting already than that's up to you. If you are able to find a good powder coater though, then it may be worth it to get everything done at once, once all the modding is done to the panels, and the other silver interior pieces. It may not cost much more than just doing the unibody.

I found that after getting the pre-powder coated black Pulse Modding parts, and all of the CZ stuff in black, there wasn't much left that was still silver, so it cuts down on any painting or powder coating needed.

And do take your time, as WuMyster said.
I've been at it for nearly a year now!rolleyes.gif

Indeed it does, and I don't like the covers either; I think they should be even along the back.

Mmm it can be a power house. Maybe I'll just stick with it as it's done me well.
Thought so, I'll probably get that, then.
Urgh, I'm not good with that sort of stuff. I'd go for one or the other. Although to be honest I'd not plug in the LED's and I hardly use my reset switch. I may go Vandal again... What size did you get?
Would be. I'm sure they'd know. It's mainly the bottom inside of the case that's been beaten up so it's not that important, but I'd know.

Oh true. I would only need like 5 pieces painted in the end (ubody back supports, midplate and 5.25" bays) and it'd actually all be covered too. I'm not sure if I really can justify powdercoating in the end on something that's already got paint on it and won't be seen.

Mmm.

Sorry if this message doesn't really make sense, I worked a hardish day (623 coffees in about 4-5 hours and then a few hours in the kitchen), I'm quite sick and I also rode in to work without eating breakfast and felt too sick for lunch.

Oh, I also found the old users build log, so I'm gonna put those here (and then link to in the OP) just to show you what kind of person he was ;-;
post #20 of 83
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerComissar View Post

The "clean" psu plate does look nice, I didn't care for the extra cutouts in the stock one either.
Lots of power in the 6990, that's a card worth keeping, as you already have a custom block on it. My smoked top is fairly subtle, still easy to see through, I figured it would be good with some lighting in the case.
I also went with the vandal switch for the nifty led ring. As you mentioned, you lose the leds and reset switch though. I have seen a couple builds where they still kept the pcb and leds and reset switch, by cutting a section of it out for the vandal switch, but it then needs some soldering and re-wiring to keep them working. Filling in the three holes would be slick, if they were later painted with the case. I'm not sure what kind of filler is compatible with powder coating though, as it's a different process than painting.

If you're good at painting already than that's up to you. If you are able to find a good powder coater though, then it may be worth it to get everything done at once, once all the modding is done to the panels, and the other silver interior pieces. It may not cost much more than just doing the unibody.

I found that after getting the pre-powder coated black Pulse Modding parts, and all of the CZ stuff in black, there wasn't much left that was still silver, so it cuts down on any painting or powder coating needed.

And do take your time, as WuMyster said.
I've been at it for nearly a year now!rolleyes.gif

Indeed it does, and I don't like the covers either; I think they should be even along the back.

Mmm it can be a power house. Maybe I'll just stick with it as it's done me well.
Thought so, I'll probably get that, then.
Urgh, I'm not good with that sort of stuff. I'd go for one or the other. Although to be honest I'd not plug in the LED's and I hardly use my reset switch. I may go Vandal again... What size did you get?
Would be. I'm sure they'd know. It's mainly the bottom inside of the case that's been beaten up so it's not that important, but I'd know.

Oh true. I would only need like 5 pieces painted in the end (ubody back supports, midplate and 5.25" bays) and it'd actually all be covered too. I'm not sure if I really can justify powdercoating in the end on something that's already got paint on it and won't be seen.

Mmm.

Sorry if this message doesn't really make sense, I worked a hardish day (623 coffees in about 4-5 hours and then a few hours in the kitchen), I'm quite sick and I also rode in to work without eating breakfast and felt too sick for lunch.

Oh, I also found the old users build log, so I'm gonna put those here (and then link to in the OP) just to show you what kind of person he was ;-;

//PICTURES:





Note: The paint is a lot more damaged than it looks here, and then on top of that these picture were taken a while a go judging by hardware.
//RAWIMAGES (Click to show)



Edited by fr0st. - 6/11/13 at 12:36am
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