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How to remove paint from FERMI cooler?

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
I'm trying to remove the paint from the part of the cooler that holds the fan.

I'm using Aircraft remover, but I'm beginning to think it's powder coated on.

Does anyone have experience removing this kind of paint?

According to what I know as an engineer and scientist. Paint derates the thermal conductivity of a heatsink. Meaning it insulates itself, so if we want to transfer heat from the voltage regulators/ memory to the heatsink. The paint will make it have very low poor thermal conductivity. Therefore forcing the voltage regulators/ memory to rise in temperature drastically.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/everything-else/16125-heatsinks-powder-coating.html

What I want to do is remove the paint completely, to restore the conductivity rating of the metal used. If it's Alluninum it has a conductivity rating of roughly depending on the purity 100-250 [W·m−1·K−1].

cooler7.jpg

thanks
Edited by chris89 - 6/9/13 at 5:51pm
post #2 of 8
Is it painted or anodized?
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post #3 of 8
Thread Starter 
I'm pretty sure its not painted since aircraft stripper doesn't do hardly anything. I applied another heavy coat of aircraft stripper to it just now. A wire brush wheel grinder works good. Just hard to get in the tiny tight spots.

I think I need someone with a glass sand blaster, or Methylene Chloride but it's very unsafe and causes death.

I think my voltage regulators are hitting 100C+ when overclocked which causes instability. Even know the core sits at 80C max.

thanks
post #4 of 8
Thread Starter 
I modded my cooler got as much paint as I could off. I need to find a shop locally that has a glass blaster to get it off. I used a high speed electrical wire wheel brush to get this much done. It reduced my memory/ voltage regulator temps by about 25-40C depending on the load! There's a gasket around the GPU Core Contact which I removed. It allowed for about 5lb more torque on the core which yielded about 10C drops as well on the core! The paint needs to be removed if u want SUPERIOR temps and STABILITY out of the FERMI GTX gpu's...



Edited by chris89 - 6/12/13 at 5:57pm
post #5 of 8
you do know that the stock PCB plate, which is what u sanded, requires thermal pads...not thermal paste...I think thermal paste will be WAYY too thick and too big of a gap...but you can prove me wrong. my 580 wouldn't fit thermal paste. Had to be pads...
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post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 
@Cakewalk_S

Let's see ur GPU-Z... Im intersted biggrin.gif

Well there's a gasket around the gpu core which makes the thing sit too high with minimal contact on anything. That's why the pads are required.

I will need to find a shop with a Glass Blaster to blast off the rest of the paint. The paint adds a gap too but without it temps go way down. So I need to remove the rest when I get a chance. I'm happy with this at the moment, temps are way less. Since the thermal conductivity of the aluminum is being utilized to about 40% rather than before was 0% (roughly) utilization of the thermal conductivity of the aluminum. With the paint even on stock volts stock clocks and fan at 100% the vregs and memory would hit 90-100C under load. Overclocked they'd be pushing 100C+. Now with it removed the heat effectively transfers to the heatsink to be blown out the case. biggrin.gif

Remove the gasket and that'll make up for the gap.

Use thermal paste, specifically Arctic Silver Ceramique 2 which is very thermally conductive and not electrically conductive.

My overall temps went down a lot. Yielded about 10C drop on the core since I could tighten the cooler down more. I also dropped my memory/ voltage regulator temps between 25-40C!

thumb.gif
Edited by chris89 - 6/12/13 at 7:49pm
post #7 of 8
interesting modding going on in here. I never thought of removing that plastic gasket and or the paint on the metal plate. smart!
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post #8 of 8
makes me wonder, does nvidia/amd really know what there doing with their reference designs?!
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