That board has the right socket type, LGA1150, to fit the CPU, but it's not the right chipset. You want Z87, boards like H87 chipset can't overclock, and also severely lack quality in general.
that is H87 and wont OC, why do people who don't know much about motherboards always cheap out on them? It baffles me somtimes, but I guess you wouldn't know unless you know. Id spend at least $140 on a Z87 board if I was going to OC, id also try to get features like POST Code, voltage read points, and buttons for power and such. If you want extra protection dual bioses is also a good feautre to have and one that many manufacturers are adding. You don't need $300+ boards, but higher end boards with haswell will OC better with BCLK and the such, at least board like the OC series boards from a few manufacturers will.
yea but OP clearly has no clue what he's doing, and motherboards are confusing as heck. You don't need to spend much money either, a Z87-A would be more than sufficient for a moderate overclock and is actually cheaper than the board he posted (well, at microcenter combo it is). Bells and whistles really aren't necessary...
Post code = not very helpful practically, when you overclock you'll know the problem (ie i increased frequency and started getting blue screens, you dont need a post code to tell you why your overclock failed...)
voltage read points = use multimeter to know exactly your voltage for something, like vcore. Like you need to know your true voltage is 1.581, not the 1.55 reported in software. Really not important unless you push extreme overclocks... do you use a multimeter to know with 100% accuracy what your voltage is because you are pushing it to extreme voltages and risking blowing out the chip? No? Then you dont need this. You can also use a multimeter by touching the VRM contact points behind the motherboard, accessible via the cases' motherboard CPU punch-out, so you really dont even need voltage read points even if you do need to know your true voltage.
buttons for power and reset and cms = because you are running your build outside of a case on a test bench, like when doing LN2 or because you run 6x graphics cards off your motherboard using PCI-E risers so you can connect to PCI-E x1 slots because you run GPGPU work and aren't gaming and pci-e bandwidth doesnt affect GPGPU work. You use a case? Then no need for these.
Dual Bios: only useful if you are pushing such extreme LN2 overclocks or RAM overclocks that you keep corrupting your BIOS and OS when booting up. If you overclock on air or water, really not necessary...
Seriously, I pushed my system farther than 99% of people here on ivy bridge. I ran over 1.55v, all sorts of extreme stuff. I didn't do ln2, but I do use multimeters and such, and most of these features I never used, and a few of them I used maybe once or twice ever. These sorts of things really aren't necessary, especially to someone like you who isn't pushing bleeding edge overclocks.
You really need a water cooler to justify anything more than a low end board on Z87, since the chip get so hot. A heatsink will limit you well before motherboard on Z87. For example, with a hyper 212+, my i7-3770k and MSI Z77A-G41 would overheat before the motherboard would overheat, but with an nh-d14, the board would overheat way before the chip would. So you need to buy the right motherboard and the right cooler. Something like a Z87X-UD3H even, you really need at least water cooling, like a high end closed loop at the very least, or otherwise your chip is going to be overheating way before your motherboard gets hot.
OP, an Asus Z87-A, Gigabyte D3HP or UD3H, or Asrock Pro3/4 or Extreme3/4 are all fine for you. Even an msi z87a-g41 would be fine for you, a low end board is fine unless you push hard overclocks.
like bclk, even many enthusiast overclocks dont mess with that on z87. I do agree quality is important for overclocking, but if you aren't doing big overclocks no reason to get a big board.