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So it looks like i need something bigger than 1000w afterall - Page 3

post #21 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blindsay View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post

Do you have a dedicate outlet for your PSU? If not, you also have to consider the power draw of monitors, speakers, lights, etc.

maybe, I can power off just about everything else except for the monitor, which I could run an extension cord to the monitor and put that on a different circuit

you may want to consider what/how it would be to get yourself a 20 amp circuit. it may be as easy as getting a new breaker or having to run #12 wire.
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post #22 of 52
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by looniam View Post

you may want to consider what/how it would be to get yourself a 20 amp circuit. it may be as easy as getting a new breaker or having to run #12 wire.


not an option sadly, I live in an apartment.
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post #23 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blindsay View Post

maybe, I can power off just about everything else except for the monitor, which I could run an extension cord to the monitor and put that on a different circuit

Just make sure it is a seperate circuit and not just a different outlet on the same circuit.


Does you case fit more than one PSU? The other option is to plug your PSUs into different circuits.
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post #24 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blindsay View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by looniam View Post

you may want to consider what/how it would be to get yourself a 20 amp circuit. it may be as easy as getting a new breaker or having to run #12 wire.


not an option sadly, I live in an apartment.

ok but you may still be able to change the breaker but that would involve checking if adding 5 amps would fit in what is being supplied to your unit, if the wiring from the panel to the outlet(s) would be fine and more importantly if your landlord or property management company would approve of your alteration.

i understand you need to consider not only the property you are in and the safety of yourself but also the others living in the same building.

but if you can isolate the circuit you're plugging the PSU into, run an extension cord to another and plug in your peripherals to a power strip as duckie is saying, that might be best.
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post #25 of 52
Thread Starter 
I don't know if this is a possibility but I do have a dryer in my apartment, those are 240v generally right? the power supply should work on that voltage and I imagine if its for a dryer it should be pretty high amps as well.

thoughts?


edit: and on a funny side note, the power supply calculator on corsair.com says I can run my overclocked SB-E and 4 overclocked 7900 series cards on a corsair ax860i lol
Edited by Blindsay - 6/11/13 at 2:20pm
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post #26 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blindsay View Post

I don't know if this is a possibility but I do have a dryer in my apartment, those are 240v generally right? the power supply should work on that voltage and I imagine if its for a dryer it should be pretty high amps as well.

thoughts?


edit: and on a funny side note, the power supply calculator on corsair.com says I can run my overclocked SB-E and 4 overclocked 7900 series cards on a corsair ax860i lol

yeah 240 will work no problem most modern units have active pfc which adapts the unit to incoming current all the top tier units run from 100v-240v
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post #27 of 52
i believe that is the least desirable method and iirc tapping into a dryer or cooking stove electric is out of code - illegal.

i worked for an lighting/audio company for a number of years and some of us that knew what they were doing made adapter for all sorts of connections because the mobile systems would run across power obstacles from time to time. still it was never a happy thought when using one thinking, " i hope this supply is what i think it is." or "i hope the fire marshall doesn't see that."
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post #28 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by looniam View Post

i believe that is the least desirable method and iirc tapping into a dryer or cooking stove electric is out of code - illegal.

i worked for an lighting/audio company for a number of years and some of us that knew what they were doing made adapter for all sorts of connections because the mobile systems would run across power obstacles from time to time. still it was never a happy thought when using one thinking, " i hope this supply is what i think it is." or "i hope the fire marshall doesn't see that."

He is allowed to unplug a 240v device and plug his PSU in fine....

A standard breaker is 15A for 110v. 220v is achieved by placing two 110v in phase and they usually have a 30A breaker so that would support 6600w!

(If I'm wrong, please correct me!)
Edited by DuckieHo - 6/11/13 at 8:36pm
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post #29 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by looniam View Post

i believe that is the least desirable method and iirc tapping into a dryer or cooking stove electric is out of code - illegal.

i worked for an lighting/audio company for a number of years and some of us that knew what they were doing made adapter for all sorts of connections because the mobile systems would run across power obstacles from time to time. still it was never a happy thought when using one thinking, " i hope this supply is what i think it is." or "i hope the fire marshall doesn't see that."

He is allowed to unplug a 240v device and plug his PSU in fine....

A standard breaker is 15A for 110v. 220v is achieved by placing two 110v in phase and they usually have a 30A breaker so that would support 6600w!

(If I'm wrong, please correct me!)

i believe they would be out of phase; two legs of 110v @30a out of phase would supply 220v @30a whereas two legs 110v @ 30a in phase would supply 110v @ 60a.
however, what plug is used would be where a code issue come into play because iirc only dryers have this style:

the blades are 110 volt each, the L shaped is the neutral and the pin on the left plug is the ground. its not difficult to make an adapter for US 110v; that would use the black (110v), white (neutral and green (ground) for a 110v @30a - assuming it would need a plug as on the left. but that would mean snipping off the terminal (the ring at the end), covering it with tape and securing it out of the way. that is where a licensed electricians frown and fire marshals scream ( or have a stroke depending on their age).

well you're also looking at tapping into a 30a line with a plug that is either rated at 15 to 20 amps . . . it won't cause a fire unless you put too large load on it but the potential is there since the breaker is rated higher.
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post #30 of 52
Quote:
Originally Posted by looniam View Post

i believe they would be out of phase; two legs of 110v @30a out of phase would supply 220v @30a whereas two legs 110v @ 30a in phase would supply 110v @ 60a.
however, what plug is used would be where a code issue come into play because iirc only dryers have this style:

the blades are 110 volt each, the L shaped is the neutral and the pin on the left plug is the ground. its not difficult to make an adapter for US 110v; that would use the black (110v), white (neutral and green (ground) for a 110v @30a - assuming it would need a plug as on the left. but that would mean snipping off the terminal (the ring at the end), covering it with tape and securing it out of the way. that is where a licensed electricians frown and fire marshals scream ( or have a stroke depending on their age).

well you're also looking at tapping into a 30a line with a plug that is either rated at 15 to 20 amps . . . it won't cause a fire unless you put too large load on it but the potential is there since the breaker is rated higher.

You're right... it's two lines out of phase. In a 120v, it's one with only ground as a reference.

The way the US achieves 220-240v is therefore using two hot lines. This is then unsuitable for a computer PSU since the voltage is floating and full of noise.
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