I thought about doing a water cooling loop, but I remembered how hot my VRMs are running at 4.7Ghz.
I thought I could buy some prebuilt VRM heatsink or even waterblock, but I decided it's gonna be more fun and challenging if I do it myself.
Here's how I'm gonna do it:
1. Buy lots of copper sheets.
2. Cut and fold them.
3. Solder them onto a slightly thicker base plate
4. Overclock past 5Ghz on water
The below diagram is what I want to look like. I used zig-zags instead of fins because I want to make it easy to solder and setup. The black thing is the push-pin / twist tie location.
I have been working (infrequently) on a similar idea, for the back side VRMs of my RIVE, using various thickness copper sheet. The easiest way I can think of would be to have a single copper plate, and then get some various diameter copper pipe and cut it lengthwise in half. Then cut the halves of pipe into 1/4 to 1/2 inch sections. Solder/braze the edges of the pipe halves to the plate, alternating which way the curves face (ie for a single line, go in-out-in-out).
That's my quick and dirty idea, anyway. I think it would result in better airflow and more surface area since the curves result in more "face".
I have been working (infrequently) on a similar idea, for the back side VRMs of my RIVE, using various thickness copper sheet. The easiest way I can think of would be to have a single copper plate, and then get some various diameter copper pipe and cut it lengthwise in half. Then cut the halves of pipe into 1/4 to 1/2 inch sections. Solder/braze the edges of the pipe halves to the plate, alternating which way the curves face (ie for a single line, go in-out-in-out).
That's my quick and dirty idea, anyway. I think it would result in better airflow and more surface area since the curves result in more "face".
Good idea you got there but you'll have a bear of the time to solder it properly unless you make a jig to hold every thing together while soldering and cooling it slowly. Also you are going to need a lot of fins to make it effective. Another thing is that solder is not as good a heat conductor as copper, so you'll be loosing some efficiency.there.
I was thinking to make a VRM cooler out of a copper bar and make a lots of cuts so they form fins but with so many after market coolers it's somewhat pointless.
Good idea you got there but you'll have a bear of the time to solder it properly unless you make a jig to hold every thing together while soldering and cooling it slowly. Also you are going to need a lot of fins to make it effective. Another thing is that solder is not as good a heat conductor as copper, so you'll be loosing some efficiency.there.
I was thinking to make a VRM cooler out of a copper bar and make a lots of cuts so they form fins but with so many after market coolers it's somewhat pointless.
Water cooling block for VRM would be even easier to make. A piece of copper square section pipe with ends soldered closed and hose fittings would make a darn good cooler.
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