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Home Make Heatsink For VRM Cooling

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
I thought about doing a water cooling loop, but I remembered how hot my VRMs are running at 4.7Ghz.

I thought I could buy some prebuilt VRM heatsink or even waterblock, but I decided it's gonna be more fun and challenging if I do it myself.

Here's how I'm gonna do it:

1. Buy lots of copper sheets.

2. Cut and fold them.

3. Solder them onto a slightly thicker base plate

4. Overclock past 5Ghz on water

The below diagram is what I want to look like. I used zig-zags instead of fins because I want to make it easy to solder and setup. The black thing is the push-pin / twist tie location.



Let me know what you think thumb.gif
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post #2 of 6
I have been working (infrequently) on a similar idea, for the back side VRMs of my RIVE, using various thickness copper sheet. The easiest way I can think of would be to have a single copper plate, and then get some various diameter copper pipe and cut it lengthwise in half. Then cut the halves of pipe into 1/4 to 1/2 inch sections. Solder/braze the edges of the pipe halves to the plate, alternating which way the curves face (ie for a single line, go in-out-in-out).
That's my quick and dirty idea, anyway. I think it would result in better airflow and more surface area since the curves result in more "face".
   
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Z77 Bench-a-lot
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LG/Hitachi Slim DVD-R/W Custom MB-Backside VRM-sinks (Copper) 3x NZXT RF-FX140LB 1-2krpm 98.3CFM Case Fans 2x Corsair SP120-PE Case Fans 
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Heatkiller GTX680 "Hole Edition" Block + Backplate XSPC Single-Bay Res (Single 5.25 bay) EK Multioption Res X2 - Advanced 150 DD "Fill-Port Res" + Fill-Port Fitting (Red) 
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2x MCP35X + Heatsinks/80x15mm Fan XSPC EX420 Alphacool NeXXos UT60 240 6x Bgears Blasters 140mm 1800rpm Fans 
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post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post

I have been working (infrequently) on a similar idea, for the back side VRMs of my RIVE, using various thickness copper sheet. The easiest way I can think of would be to have a single copper plate, and then get some various diameter copper pipe and cut it lengthwise in half. Then cut the halves of pipe into 1/4 to 1/2 inch sections. Solder/braze the edges of the pipe halves to the plate, alternating which way the curves face (ie for a single line, go in-out-in-out).
That's my quick and dirty idea, anyway. I think it would result in better airflow and more surface area since the curves result in more "face".

Thanks I'll use that as plan B. thumb.gif
Power Bac G5
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Power Bac G5
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post #4 of 6
Good idea you got there but you'll have a bear of the time to solder it properly unless you make a jig to hold every thing together while soldering and cooling it slowly. Also you are going to need a lot of fins to make it effective. Another thing is that solder is not as good a heat conductor as copper, so you'll be loosing some efficiency.there.
I was thinking to make a VRM cooler out of a copper bar and make a lots of cuts so they form fins but with so many after market coolers it's somewhat pointless.
post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MishelLngelo View Post

Good idea you got there but you'll have a bear of the time to solder it properly unless you make a jig to hold every thing together while soldering and cooling it slowly. Also you are going to need a lot of fins to make it effective. Another thing is that solder is not as good a heat conductor as copper, so you'll be loosing some efficiency.there.
I was thinking to make a VRM cooler out of a copper bar and make a lots of cuts so they form fins but with so many after market coolers it's somewhat pointless.

I noticed that. Just ordered a XSPC D5 kit, I'll just get a water block for my VRMs when I get more money.
Power Bac G5
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Power Bac G5
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post #6 of 6
Water cooling block for VRM would be even easier to make. A piece of copper square section pipe with ends soldered closed and hose fittings would make a darn good cooler.
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