I sometimes get new insights, ideas or just mice related stuff i want to share with people, such i feel not worth to open an extra thread for it. And I'd like to have this thread to be for anybody who likes to do the same. If it turns out dying or being akward, then it is what it is.
So well, I got one thought about the sides of mice in the matter of flat sides vs outward angled (IMO, Zowie AM), the / \ - shape. The outward angle has two advantages. First the ring finger placement. Then the preciseness. It's like with the analog stick of the PS3 controller vs Xbox 360 one. The PS3 is round which allows for finer adjustments because you're pushing it from a 45° angle, unlike the Xbox one in which you place your thumb in between it and push it from inside. I really feel there is a slight similarity when using the IMO. The reason is that if you press from an angle above you press the stick slightly down, it gets more weight, but not too much. Same with the mouse. A 90g mouse turns into a 300g+ one. That is one of the reasons the IntelliMouseOptical is special.
I really don't expect a reply, i am just content with this written down and maybe some people being interested in this. So feel free, it's our thread. Just leave the F-word out please, gotta keep it on overclock.net quality standards.
Thread name suggestion: "The Random Unspecific Mouse Thread" would make the thing more generally.
()
Lately i have swapped the kingsis/avago sensor-led holder with a logitech one + 1.0x lense - original viper was 1.25x. The result is a higher lod + tracks on everything i have tested so far. I wonder how the Savu would respond to this.
Edit:
tl:dr: different angle = higher lod/better surface detection!
Savu + Sensei = Savsei: Mousebuttons 1-5 and wheel ^v.
This time i did not any weight optimization - mostly top shell part, native weight 24g -> with cutting ~17g, or even lower* - this results in mouse1/2 buttons needing less preasure.
*at cost of shell stability. Tbh i had never issues with my Xavu version.
Dpi steps: blue 750 dpi; purple 370; red 150. The lod is very low. It is important, that the sensor height is already low (kingsis lense design?). I do not expect other mice (DA, Savu etc.) to work with this lense.
I have discovered (accidently) a mechanical way , to adjust the LOD efficiently - while exchanging the kingsis sensor-LED-magnifier with a avago one, i have missed to fix/glue it properly. It is fixed at the led side, but is movable (~1mm) at sensor side.
left: Avago / right: Kingsis Low LOD = This is how the magnifier actually should be (horizontally) = 1cd + wmo feet High LOD = >2cd/<3cd + wmo feet
The performance is not affected, 1000hz this time and same pads as above:
Edit: Measured cpi (blue setting) with various mats is 650. At this point, I have no clue what influences what anymore. I am happy with the result. The magnifier is set at high lod and glued stone solid. There is only one negative sideeffect:
It tracks well on every pad i have including wood, except for glass (with 1.0x lense it worked well). Looks weird, to say the least:
I appreciate the CM attempt to invent new shape/design, but the Recon shape does not please me. I have only one shell where the recon pcb fits in, without having to cut or solder something.. Can you guess it?
CM Recon + Razer Lachesis = Lachecon! / or Resis
Ps. The wheel encoder almost screwed up everything this time (where the piece of tape is). No sidebuttons. ~84g.
Just in theory so far: an as small and light as possible high performance mouse. For begining only left and right mouse button and sensor + lense/led. The "idea" is, you connect your mouse to your pc and leave it somewhere (near to you) as a station. The small mouse that you will use in your hand is connected through a cable that ends in the station.
So the biggest contra points are, that you need to attach the cable to your arm, that connects the two devices. Plus the small mouse itself must be fixed to the fingers, see below. The second point is maybe optional?
Specs: Razer Abyssus with two buttons in a matchbox (the matchbox here is only for demonstration purpose). Also the small switches need more preassure. This is intention because i can imagine unintentionally clicking -> Finger-palm-mouse?
I just can't seem to understand and imagine what you explained. Not that my opinion matters, but maybe others are with me in this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thunderbringer
I appreciate the CM attempt to invent new shape/design, but the Recon shape does not please me. I have only one shell where the recon pcb fits in, without having to cut or solder something.. Can you guess it?
CM Recon + Razer Lachesis = Lachecon! / or Resis
Ps. The wheel encoder almost screwed up everything this time (where the piece of tape is). No sidebuttons. ~84g.
Though i have used a IMO1.1 and a WMO for years, i have not noticed until now that they share different sensor height. You have to cut the IMO1.1 switch pcb if you want to keep the original height, when using a Deathadder PCB.
IMO1.1+DA3G(GW Edition)=DAimo3G
Specs:
- IMO1.1 shape with DA3G sensor
- 5 Buttons (sidebuttons both at left side)
- mech. wheel encoder (also taken from DA)
- 92grams
For me it would be not the right thing, because I would like to use thumbbuttons.
So the benefit having the pcb outside the housing, would be not so great.
Attachiching the cable and maybe the mouse to you arm is a great idea. I always think it would be nice
to do that with a normal mouse too.
I am very excited about the project. Please keep us up to date.
The problem is, how to attach the finger-palm to the fingers..? One possibility is to take on finger gloves with velcro. A mechanical way, of pinching the fingers can not be comfortable in the long run.(?) But turning the matchbox by 90 degrees, results in a very short and (~55-60mm) thick claw/fingertip mouse, where sidebuttons should be no problem in general (design question). ot..
Since my AM sadly passed away - and i have really enjoyed it as my viper+0.5x lense combination - i need a "replacement"..
Measured sensitivity @1800 step is ~950. The LOD (without feet) is ~2mm. Does not work with glass anymore, just like the AM with 0.5x. I guess the lack of precision (sensor LED magnifier is not connected to the sensor lense) is the reason for this. SS qck, NP+ and Mantis Speed used above. What is missing now is a switch PCB..
Your projects inspire me. I think about a little 2-Button thumb modul. That could easily attached to a mouse.
So you could you this with a mouse w/o thumb buttons or even with bad buttons.
I think for me it is the best, to have these button as mousebuttons 4 and 5. So x-key could recognize and program them.
I will follow your matchbox idea. I will put the addon mouse in "the station". The additional required cable could be fix to the normal cable.
For the buttons I will use Cherry ML switches. Nice mechanical switch with lower travelway than Cherry MX switches.
3x Omron + ALPS encoder (obviously the better choice amongst mechanical encoders). I like the PCB colour (something different - Sensei switch pcb), not that it matters. A wheel LED would be possible (DA BE here in use - the first pin). However i do not have a pure green LED atm, so lights are out. A ON/OFF switch would be necessary since the software does not support it. Sidebuttons without switches, again the patience..
My choice for the sidebuttons would be those, i prefer low pressure buttons/switches. The same ones are in the wmo as main-switches. Does not look elegant, but it works.
My AM "died" today. When i connect it with the pc, this happens: the dpi indicator blinks one time blue and goes out, 5-6 seconds later it blinks 10 times red and after that it stays on at purple. The sensor LED is on all the time. No button/sensor response. I have swapped the cable, the result is the same. Anyone experienced this?
That specific LED-sequence on the AM indicates, that the Sensor itself is damaged. The AM lives/works again after exchanging it with another one (broken rzr Abyssus), in height to match a 1.0x lense - without lense/bottom cut , ~1mm higher compared to native AM. Meassured CPI @ blue setting is exactly 1800 and the abolute LOD is ~3mm (icemat) without feet. On Goliathus ~ 4 CDs.
Conclusion: If you intend to swap lense, i recommend to solder the sensor further up/down instead to modify the lense. The work is worth it.
Has anyone done any ergo modifications? I currently use the G100 and feel like the back is way too arched to be comfortable in longer sessions, giving me pain in the area between my thumb and the index finger (the other side is fine, though). Otherwise this mouse is very good as it doesn't strain my wrist at all, a major problem I have with most gaming mice. I think I should experiment with thick tennis racquet grip or bicycle handlebar grip. Can't really go full-on Thunderbringer on this, otherwise I'd probably cut off the left-side piece of a WMO and mold it into place.
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