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Changing the PSU Case

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
I currently have a 450W PSU, but it only has a very small fan and is VERY noisy! I also have an old 250W PSU that has a 120MM fan, that is almost silent. Is it possible to take the 450W out of the case with the small fan and put it in the 250W case with the large fan?

I hope you guys can help?
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Gaming PC
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MacBook Pro
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Intel Core i5-3470 Asus P8Z77-V LX PNY Nvidia GTX 770 Corsair Vengeance 8GB 1600MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
1TB SATA II Samsung 840 Series 250GB SSD SATA DVD Reader/Writer NZXT Sentry 2 SEN2-001 5.25" Touch Screen Fan c... 
CoolingOSOSMonitor
Arctic Cooling Freezer Xtreme Rev.2 CPU Cooler Windows 8.1 Pro 64 Bit Mac OS X Mavericks 10.9 24" HDTV 
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24" HDTV Zalman K400G Corsair Builder Series CXM 750W Modular Power S... Corsair 750D 
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Jeway USB Gaming Mouse Logitech LS21 2.1 Surround Sound Speakers 
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post #2 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackLangstone View Post

I currently have a 450W PSU, but it only has a very small fan and is VERY noisy! I also have an old 250W PSU that has a 120MM fan, that is almost silent. Is it possible to take the 450W out of the case with the small fan and put it in the 250W case with the large fan?

I hope you guys can help?

In theory you could do it but unless you are 100% sure you know what you are doing i would not recommend you try
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post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shilka View Post

In theory you could do it but unless you are 100% sure you know what you are doing i would not recommend you try

I can get my dad to help, he is basically an electrician
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Intel Core i5-3470 Asus P8Z77-V LX PNY Nvidia GTX 770 Corsair Vengeance 8GB 1600MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
1TB SATA II Samsung 840 Series 250GB SSD SATA DVD Reader/Writer NZXT Sentry 2 SEN2-001 5.25" Touch Screen Fan c... 
CoolingOSOSMonitor
Arctic Cooling Freezer Xtreme Rev.2 CPU Cooler Windows 8.1 Pro 64 Bit Mac OS X Mavericks 10.9 24" HDTV 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
24" HDTV Zalman K400G Corsair Builder Series CXM 750W Modular Power S... Corsair 750D 
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CoolingOSOSMonitor
Arctic Cooling Freezer Xtreme Rev.2 CPU Cooler Windows 8.1 Pro 64 Bit Mac OS X Mavericks 10.9 24" HDTV 
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24" HDTV Zalman K400G Corsair Builder Series CXM 750W Modular Power S... Corsair 750D 
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post #4 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackLangstone View Post

I can get my dad to help, he is basically an electrician

If you want to try be very very careful then
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Intel Core I7 6850K Gigabyte X99 Ultra Gaming Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming Kingston HyperX DDR4 Savage 3000 MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Samsung 840 Evo WD Green WD30EZRX  WD Green WD40EZRX  WD Green WD60EZRX  
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingCooling
WD Red WD80EFZX 8TB  LG CH12NS30 5x Noctua NF-A14 FLX Noctua NH-D15 
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Windows 7 64 Bit Asus PG279Q Corsair Gaming Strafe RGB EVGA SuperNova G2 750 watt 
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Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Roccat Kone XTD Laser Roccat Sense Metor Sennheiser HD 598 
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post #5 of 6
Note that the layouts may be very significantly different, not to mention how hot different components get. Maybe the louder units needs more cooling because of lower efficiency, lower-quality caps, or something?

Does the 450W use a side-blowing 80mm fan? If so, the heatsinks are probably aligned to get airflow from that direction and not an overhead 120mm fan.

If you don't mind the lower reliability and are messing around anyway, I'd suggest maybe just replacing the fan in the 450W model. Actually, if it's for the sig rig with the GT 520, you might as well just use the 250W power supply unless you're upgrading the video card to something higher than say HD 7750 later.
post #6 of 6
I've done it a couple of times, for the same reason you want to do it.

The mounting posts in the new case must line up exactly with the holes in the big circuit board you want to transplant. They usually do with standard ATX PSUs, except Deltas. Don't bother trying the transplant otherwise.

There has to be sufficient clearance for all the components, and usually any problem is with the AC power cord receptacle at the back, especially if it's low in the case and sticks in far because of its line filter (either a tin can or small circuit board soldered to the receptacle's tabs).

It's probably best to use the on/off switch of the new case because removing it often causes at least one of its plastic retention tabs to break off.

You'll probably have to solder the wires for the on/off switch and AC receptacle but maybe also for the fan if there's no socket for it.

The original PSU may have had sheets of plastic electrical insulation under the big circuit board and maybe also on the cover. You may want to transplant these, too, or use fish paper (not for fish but electronics; much like paper for automobile gaskets) or the plastic from a 2L soda bottle (generic is better -- perfectly cylindrical).

Some of the big heatsinks are connected directly to 340 volts DC when operating, so make sure everything clears them by at least 1/4".

Do NOT operate the PSU except with the PSU case completely secured to its cover, with all the screws in place. Use only a grounded 3-wire AC socket.
Edited by larymoencurly - 6/17/13 at 4:48pm
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