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post #11 of 16
Thread Starter 
So am I better of building a closed loop or should I try and squeeze a res and pump inside this small case. I don't care about modifying the case as long as it looks clean
s-openedup.jpg 59k .jpg file

Also note I am no longer using dvd drive so this opens me some room to play with
Edited by offroadz - 6/26/13 at 3:43pm
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post #12 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by offroadz View Post

So am I better of building a closed loop or should I try and squeeze a res and pump inside this small case. I don't care about modifying the case as long as it looks clean
s-openedup.jpg 59k .jpg file

Also note I am no longer using dvd drive so this opens me some room to play with

Well play with that room the best you can... I don't know what your budget if you have a corsair pump/block then use it... Otherwise if you want something like it but much higher performance then http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeDrive2.aspx

You can buy just the water block and throw a $30 DDC pump on it... or you can go all out and get a nice PWM pump. Just make sure it fits height wise.

Def try to make the most of it... I don't know your goal but you could always make a loop and use a PCI bracket plate that has quick disconnects on it and have a radiator on a small tower that can be disconnected if you need to move it.

Or you could cut the top of the case and put a 200MM radiator on top. Or just go with your little one.
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post #13 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bal3Wolf View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Auxillary Field View Post

Actually its the other way around: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/14/360-radiator-shootout-summary/

For low RPM fans you're better of with a thin rad, but at 1000+ rpm a thick rad will be better.

Well guess im a little outdated when i built my setup the rx360 a thick rad killed all the thin rads but i have had my loop for 4 years so alot of newer rads have been made.

Your not outdated... The RX360 is a great rad and even at 600RPM fan speeds it is cooling about 110% as much as the RS360 and at 2200RPM it is doing 109% the a mount of dissipation the RS360 is. Thing is that test is done at 10C over room temp... If you are running hot those big thick rads start to pick up some steam of the thinner ones. So once they are loaded up it gets a little different... Not enough to justify 1 RX360 over a RS480 or even a 3x140 radiator because at the end up the day it is going to be the surface area.

As the air gets pushed through that radiator and quickly heated up it looses the little ability it had to cool the radiator in the first place. The thing is with thin rads it is either high density or not... Where as the thick ones usually perform well regardless of the fan speed.

Also the RX360 is one of the best flowing radiators on the market given it's price.
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post #14 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post

Well play with that room the best you can... I don't know what your budget if you have a corsair pump/block then use it... Otherwise if you want something like it but much higher performance then http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeDrive2.aspx

You can buy just the water block and throw a $30 DDC pump on it... or you can go all out and get a nice PWM pump. Just make sure it fits height wise.

Def try to make the most of it... I don't know your goal but you could always make a loop and use a PCI bracket plate that has quick disconnects on it and have a radiator on a small tower that can be disconnected if you need to move it.

Or you could cut the top of the case and put a 200MM radiator on top. Or just go with your little one.

I've never done any sort of water cooling at all so im new to this im open to any suggestions. I trust the people on here and I have been contemplating cutting the top of the case to fit a bigger rad but Ive never cut cases before either so im nervous about doing it clean.
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post #15 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by offroadz View Post

I've never done any sort of water cooling at all so im new to this im open to any suggestions. I trust the people on here and I have been contemplating cutting the top of the case to fit a bigger rad but Ive never cut cases before either so im nervous about doing it clean.
just make sure you draw it on very exact then put the cutting wheel center 1mm from that line so that the maximum diagonal of the cutting wheel is aligned with the edge of the line.
This way you get a clean straight cut and you'll don't have to vile/sand/polish much afterwards.
post #16 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by maarten12100 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by offroadz View Post

I've never done any sort of water cooling at all so im new to this im open to any suggestions. I trust the people on here and I have been contemplating cutting the top of the case to fit a bigger rad but Ive never cut cases before either so im nervous about doing it clean.
just make sure you draw it on very exact then put the cutting wheel center 1mm from that line so that the maximum diagonal of the cutting wheel is aligned with the edge of the line.
This way you get a clean straight cut and you'll don't have to vile/sand/polish much afterwards.

WHAT HE SAID... BUT!!!

You need to use masking tape to cover where you will be cutting and plus about half an inch to an inch to each side. You can get a stencil for the radiator if you cant find it someone will help you find it once you decide on the radiator.

Anyways you draw the cut outline on the masking tape and then cut. There are plenty of people who have done it and taken pictures on this site.

If you don't own a dremel tool then a knock off is less than $30 but the discs that usually come with knock off usually instantly explode so buy some nice cut off discs if you are going to buy a knock off dremel.

Anyways I really think that as long as it isn't too big (I highly doubt it is) that the only radiator that makes sense for cutting into the top of that case is the 200MM one. Also since it will be using such a large fan it will be much more quite in comparison to radiators with smaller fans.

I would do the mounting in one of 2 ways either mount the radiator to the case panel with the radiator on the top of the panel and the fan on top of the radiator then a grille on top of the fan... If you can not find a suitable grille then put the fan on top of the panel and the radiator on top of the fan and the radiator can serve as the grille and a sound buffer.

The air should go into the case so that you are drawing cool air not hot air so if the fan is on top of the radiator then push if it us under the radiator then pull... either way the air flow will be coming from outside the case then into the case.

Even though the air will be slightly warmed by the radiator it is still likely to be cooler than the air that would normally have been in that case so it will still cool down the other components well.

What are the dimensions of the top case panel?

Also what do you think about the apogee waterblock/pump I don't know if that will work for you or not (plus it is really expensive)... but it will def save space if it does work. There is an easy way to build the system without a reservoir since the loop will be so simple and the radiator on top or you can use a micro res or you can actually use tubing as a reservoir in the same way it is done on motorcycles that replace the rear reservoir with a tube.

The 2 biggest concerns would be... designing it so that it isn't extremely difficult to get the case panel off when you need to and making sure that the radiator is oriented and positioned in a way that when the tubes come through the panel there is nothing in the way and they can get an easy approach to the pump and cpu block.


Just food for thought I am not saying that this is the only way to go... just it makes sense to me...

The other way that I like (in my head) would be to install the tiny radiator you where talking about then buy a quick disconnect PCI bracket. They have 2 connectors on them one will be your in and one will be your out. You could then build a small 2x140 tower that could be disconnected AND if you did include the small radiator you could even replace the stand with a small tube that completed the loop in case you wanted to take the PC to somewhere else and use it. They have no spill quick disconnects....

But those fittings get REALLY REALLY expensive so I'd go with the big 200MM over that...
Edited by givmedew - 6/28/13 at 9:38pm
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