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How to create a VESA Mount after Debezelling your Monitor (Qnix QX2710)

post #1 of 361
Thread Starter 
How to create a VESA mount after Debezelling your Monitor.

This guide is specifically for the Qnix QX2710, but the same materials/processes can be used for other monitors as well.

What do I need?:
- Electrical Tape
- 60 Grit (very coarse) Sandpaper
- 1/8" Tempered Hardboard (my pic)
- JBWeld Cold Weld Steel-Reinforced Epoxy (link
- Scotch 3M Extreme Mounting Tape (20lbs) (my pic)
- 5/32" Drill Bit + Drill (my pic) (chart (don't forget to charge your drill!)
- M4 Metric Machine Screws & M4 Metric Hex Nuts (four of each) (my pic)
- 4-40 Phillips 3/4" Flathead Machine Screws (1/2" work too) & 4-40 Phillips Hex Nuts (six of each)
- Screwdriver heads of various sizes.
- Hammer
- Trim Tools (optional, but recommended) (link) (my pic)
- Patience

Let's get to work:
Prep work.

1. First remove the outer casing of your Qnix. How? Check this awesome 'Dismantling Korean QX2710' Playlist if that isn't thorough enough or you want a second source, watch MenacingTuba dismantle the monitor in his video review. Follow all of the instructions in the video until you have the LCD completely disconnected and sitting outside of the plastic casing.
2. Unscrew the PCB box from the back of plastic casing and then remove the metal sheet that protects the PCB by removing the screws. It should look like this:



3. Unscrew the screws from the PCB and remove it from the metal casing.
4. Remove the speaker connections...sorry I forgot to take pictures of this step, but it's dead easy. Just follow the red and blue wires from the speakers to the PCB and pull it out gently.
5. Screw the PCB back into the little metal mounts in the casing.
6. If you want to go ahead and paint the metal bezels then remove these three screws and follow videos 12 & 13 in this playlist to see how to remove the metal bezel. The trim tools come in handy here. Bezel Painting Guide.

While the paint is drying on our bezel, lets prepare the PCB Box/VESA mounting solution:

1. Go to your local Home Depot/Lowes (or regional equivalent) and find 1/8" Tempered Hardboard. You'll likely have to buy a huge 2"x4" piece of it. Get them to cut it for you, I know this is a free service at Home Depot.
2. Have them cut you a few squares to the dimensions of 9.75" & 9.375" pieces (just in case you screw up).



3. If you're lucky enough, the same store will carry the screws you need, otherwise you'll need to go to a specialty hardware store. You'll need six of each, 4-40 Phillips 3/4" Flathead Machine Screws (1/2" work too) & 4-40 Phillips Hex Nuts. These Phillips screws will connect our PCB Box + Metal covering plate + Tempered Hardboard all together. More on that later. You'll need four of each, M4 Metric Machine Screws & M4 Metric Hex Nuts. These M4 screws are for connecting our VESA monitor mounts to the VESA connector on the back of the PCB box.

4. Take the flat metal covering plate and line it up against one of your spare 9.75" & 9.375" square pieces of tempered hardboard. This will be our practice board. Grab a sharpie and mark the 6 screw holes. Grab your drill and a 5/32" drill bit. We want to drill from the fibrous/rough side of the hardboard through to the smooth side, so make your screwhole marks on the rough side. Drill your holes. Grab your hammer and on the smooth side flatten down the fibers that were pushed up due to the drilling (you'll see what I mean). Grab your Phillips screws. The metal covering plate will go on the smooth side of the board. Push your Phillips screws through from the rough side. If your drilling was accurate then it should all line up quite nicely. If not, then just grab another square piece of hardboard. You'll get it right this time. Bang down the fibers on both sides of the board around the drill holes. When our Phillips screws are pushed in we want their flatheads to lie very flushly with the rough side of the hardboard, as this side of the hardboard will be what is placed against the metal back panel of the LCD.

5. Grab the actual PCB box (and your Phillips Hex Nuts) and screw everything together.

It will look like this:


Reverse side:


6. Great, our PCB box is finished.

Connecting the PCB Box/VESA Mount to the LCD panel:
1. Use a ruler to find exactly in the middle where the PCB box will go.
2. Outline a square the size of the PCB Box.
3. Grab your 60 Grit sandpaper and sand down the area inside the square. No need to get too crazy, I just made straight lines in a checkerboard pattern.
4. Take a damp cloth and clean away as much debris/dust from sanding as possible.

Should look like this:


5. Tape up all of your cables onto the PCB box so they don't get in the way when we do our epoxy.



6. Practice setting down your PCB box onto the outlined square so you don't screw it up when it matters later.
7. Get some disposable dishes and some sort of mixing utensil and squeeze out the entirety of both tubes of the JB Weld epoxy.




8. Apply the epoxy evenly as possible within the square.



9. Place your PCB box down firmly and remove the tape from the cables. Place something heavy on top of the PCB box. I used two bricks (that's what's in the plastic baggy - didn't wanna get brick dust everywhere) on top of a towel.



10. Wait 48 hours for the epoxy to dry.

11. Take your Scotch 3M Mounting Tape and do like so over the back of the PCB box, make sure you don't cover the power connector or DVI-D cable holes! And don't take the red cover off the outside facing part of the tape, heh.



12. Take the black foamy stuff that came with your Qnix and cut some of it to mount the monitor controls on. Sorry I don't have a really good picture of this. The reason for doing this is that I think some kinda electrical issues occur when the little PCB board of the monitor controls touches the metal of the LCD panel. I could be wrong...but...just do it.

I did it like this:



13. Reseat all of your cables.

14. Grab your M4 Metric screws and attach the monitor to your VESA mount. Place the nuts on the screws first and then put them through your stand's VESA holes and then into the VESA mounting pegs on the back of the PCB. Sorry this isn't the greatest picture ever.



15. Sit down and admire your work, we're done baby.

Real life:


Next to BenQ XL2420T:


If I missed something or you have any questions, feel free to ask.
Edited by Remmib - 6/28/13 at 1:54pm
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post #2 of 361
oh yes, thanks for the guide. excellent pics
post #3 of 361
looks great. love the slim true bezel. adding this to the Korean PLS monitor club OP
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post #4 of 361
amazing, well done. Have you got a link to the hex nuts you used?
post #5 of 361
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by majnu View Post

amazing, well done. Have you got a link to the hex nuts you used?

I didn't buy them online so the links below are what I got from googling...it's easiest to just go to your local hardware store that has loads of screws/nuts.

4-40 Phillips Hex Nuts
M4 Metric Hex Nuts
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post #6 of 361
thanks. I've done mine already and I just screwed into it using 10mm screws, but your idea is much better. smile.gif so I'll keep it in mind for the future.
post #7 of 361
Awesome!
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post #8 of 361
May I ask why you chose to not add mounting tape vertically also so you can get extra reinforcement? Just curious
post #9 of 361
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Intake View Post

May I ask why you chose to not add mounting tape vertically also so you can get extra reinforcement? Just curious

Because there is really only one place that I could've put the tape going vertically (see image)...and the tape only gives reinforcement strength of 1/2 or 1lb for every 2 inches of tape, so I don't think it would've been worth it.
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post #10 of 361
Hey Remmib, I wanted to thank you for posting this and your bezel painting guide. I purchased 3 of the QNIX QX2710's and followed your guides for debezeling/ painting almost to a T and everything turned out great. Your results were part of the reason why I decided to purchase these particular monitors so I thought I would share some of my results for anyone else who's thinking of giving this a try.

Here is a shot of the final result (was planning to throw these pics up on [H] at the time):


I have them each mounted to a VESA arms from Monoprice. A shot from the backside:
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