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[Official] Corsair Carbide Air 540 Owner's Club +Gallery - Page 379

post #3781 of 12452
Quote:
Originally Posted by theilya View Post

is anyone using anti vibration screws with SP 120s? if so what kind?

I've been running SP120 HPE and QE models along with AF140's in three different cases and never felt the need for anti-vibe mounts, since the rubber mounting points on the fans themselves do a decent enough job. Then again, I never screw them down tight, when the rubber bits start to bend/deform, I back the threads out until they're straight again.
post #3782 of 12452
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fahrenheit85 View Post

So what do you all think is the best way to delete the hot swap bays?
  1. Easiest is to just take out the connectors, and put a black blanking plate on the underside (even black plastic or cardboard) to seal it up, and visually kill the holes. That's what I've done for now.
  2. More complicated is to install a false bottom on the inside, which would also let you still use the bays if you're only removing them for aesthetic reasons and not trying to clear up the cable mess and PSU fitment on the other side.
  3. More drastic would be to do #1 and then bend/flatten out the stamped "rails" so they're flush with the bottom, and seal up the small gaps from the underside with a plate of some sort. Gives you the potential of bending the rails back up if you ever want to use the hot swap system again. Unlikely this is reversible using hand tools though.
  4. Even more drastic is to do #1 AND cut the rail area out. which is what you'd want to do if you're trying to make room for a radiator down there, but you'd really also want to fab a mounting plate for the rad, and you run the risk of having a wobbly case by removing that much of the structure.
post #3783 of 12452
Quote:
Originally Posted by CroakV View Post

  1. Easiest is to just take out the connectors, and put a black blanking plate on the underside (even black plastic or cardboard) to seal it up, and visually kill the holes. That's what I've done for now.
  2. More complicated is to install a false bottom on the inside, which would also let you still use the bays if you're only removing them for aesthetic reasons and not trying to clear up the cable mess and PSU fitment on the other side.
  3. More drastic would be to do #1 and then bend/flatten out the stamped "rails" so they're flush with the bottom, and seal up the small gaps from the underside with a plate of some sort. Gives you the potential of bending the rails back up if you ever want to use the hot swap system again. Unlikely this is reversible using hand tools though.
  4. Even more drastic is to do #1 AND cut the rail area out. which is what you'd want to do if you're trying to make room for a radiator down there, but you'd really also want to fab a mounting plate for the rad, and you run the risk of having a wobbly case by removing that much of the structure.

Thanks, I'm not trying to put a rad on the floor but a 55mm thick rad up front. Everyone says the fittings will hit the rail of the hot swap bay. Is I'd want to take em out then put a blanking plate down to cover up where the holes would be. I have a dermal so I could get a cut off wheel and take it off.
post #3784 of 12452
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fahrenheit85 View Post

Thanks, I'm not trying to put a rad on the floor but a 55mm thick rad up front. Everyone says the fittings will hit the rail of the hot swap bay. Is I'd want to take em out then put a blanking plate down to cover up where the holes would be. I have a dermal so I could get a cut off wheel and take it off.

Just bend them down and put in a floor on top of them, its done in 10 minutes smile.gif

Cutting them will get the same result, only you know the difference below the floor.
post #3785 of 12452
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fahrenheit85 View Post

Thanks, I'm not trying to put a rad on the floor but a 55mm thick rad up front. Everyone says the fittings will hit the rail of the hot swap bay. Is I'd want to take em out then put a blanking plate down to cover up where the holes would be. I have a dermal so I could get a cut off wheel and take it off.

Or you can just use some fancy schmancy angled fittings and avoid having to bend anything. smile.gif
post #3786 of 12452
Quote:
Originally Posted by jameyscott View Post

Or you can just use some fancy schmancy angled fittings and avoid having to bend anything. smile.gif

Actually, you can't with a rad that thick sir, the inlet/outlet ports would be against or covered by the L-bracket that is the track for the HDD caddy.

Just thought you should know.
post #3787 of 12452
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

Actually, you can't with a rad that thick sir, the inlet/outlet ports would be against or covered by the L-bracket that is the track for the HDD caddy.

Just thought you should know.



Just thought you should know. I used a UT 360 on the front with Phobya 45 degree rotary fittings and it fit just fine.
post #3788 of 12452
Quote:
Originally Posted by jameyscott View Post



Just thought you should know. I used a UT 360 on the front with Phobya 45 degree rotary fittings and it fit just fine.

Good to know, because I tried a Coolgate 360 extreme and it's ports would be completely blocked without modding case, zero room for a fitting. I also hate having fittings on the bottom instead of at the top, such a pain to get the air out. Even with a "top" plug to release the air. So I'm just gonna mod the case to put 3-240mm rads in instead, so a build like that somewhere here on OCN.
post #3789 of 12452
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

Good to know, because I tried a Coolgate 360 extreme and it's ports would be completely blocked without modding case, zero room for a fitting. I also hate having fittings on the bottom instead of at the top, such a pain to get the air out. Even with a "top" plug to release the air. So I'm just gonna mod the case to put 3-240mm rads in instead, so a build like that somewhere here on OCN.

That would be Glenui's build. (I think that is how you spell it). Yeah, the UT60 is kinda in a class of its own for fitment because of the way the ports are located.
post #3790 of 12452
I'm hoping I won't have any fitting issues with an AX360 and AX240. Already consigned myself to running the 360 fittings on the bottom, but the nice thing about this case is that it's easy enough to invert, even full of fluid. I guess I'll find out tomorrow, both UPS and DHL say my parcels are in Malta now. smile.gif

Decided to get my 540 off the floor, it's just too pretty to be a glowing footrest. That meant breaking out the shovel to clean all the junk off the desk. God bless junk drawers! But I think I want a bigger desk now. And actually taking pictures of my pseudo-office makes me pay attention to the totally bare walls. smile.gif

Downside to having the 540 on the desk, I had to turn off the bias lighting LEDs on the back of my monitor, the reflected glare off the case window ain't good. I have strip made for big-screen TVs that goes from the bottom right, up the side, across the top, and down the left side, might trim it so it's just running along the top, that should reduce the glare and let me keep them on, since I find them a big help in the evenings.



(Disregard the EVGA case badge under the power button, it's just hanging out there to stay clean and sticky until I can mount it on the XSPC backplate).



Also really digging the new keyboard, but that's a bit off-topic.

EDIT: I just turned the Hue strip to fullbright white, does a decent job of bias lighting. smile.gif
Edited by CroakV - 12/15/13 at 4:12pm
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