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Simple NZXT Sentry Mesh No-LED Mod

post #1 of 3
Thread Starter 
After much looking for a non-flashy-look-at-me LCD fan controller, I decided on getting the NZXT Sentry Mesh Fan Controller over the Lamptron FC9 (too expensive for just a fan controller) and the Sentry Mix 2 (not out yet and I think 6 channels is too much, only wanted one to control my 3 non PWM fans)

I wasn't totally thrilled once I got it to be honest

F22B5340-56F9-46C1-B46F-AA99425BB141-39157-0000628855626C87_zpsdbc973e6.jpg

1. I really would have liked LED's to help see where the sliders are at night. I have to feel around for them
2. But the feel with the sliders feel VERY good. Definitely not cheap feeling like I was warned with the original Sentry Mix
3. WHY OH WHY did they put a freaking random white LED for power? WHY!? Totally unnecessary and really clashed with my Red LED lit case - on top of being completely random
4. Said LED also bleeds through the 5th slider. It's as if they didn't even bother to try it or didn't care enough to fix
5. WOW...the paint on the mesh couldn't be any cheaper...read on and you'll see where/how I found this...

The LED really bugged the crap out of me to the point where I almost just ordered an FC9 - but I just don't see a $40 product worth the trouble of returning so I decided to take a look

** Note - This is NOT a full-proof, thorough mod. I did NOT want to break it apart for fear of messing things up. I just took a look and this seemed relatively easy and worth trying **

So first step was popping out the controller...
C3EA3CE4-8DD1-4473-8DD3-734102936AC9-39157-0000628C14F1578E_zpsb0eba99b.jpg

I didn't take a picture top-down while assembled, but the LED is shined through a sort of pass-through tube to the front, so it wasn't a simple matter of covering the LED. Reaching this tube (sorry didn't have pics of this process) is reachable with some pliers. Anyone who has this controller and takes a look should easily see it's not covered. I just used electrical tape.

But to my disappointment, it shines through the tube to the front....so then I slid out the controller further

I saw screws that could detach the board and allow it to slide out backwards, but it was unclear of how the sliders were attached. I didn't want to risk breaking them off and not being able to put them back on

So notice along the top...3 folded tabs...

There were no screws on the other side, and there didn't seem like there was any adhesive so.....

I grabbed some needle-nose pliers and tried to carefully wedged the tab upwards to be at a 90* angle - one end at the folded end and the other carefully on the front side.

Sorry, I don't have a picture of this process

6152F19A-6C53-455D-A3D5-BC08ED8B18DA-39157-0000628C245EF7E6_zps1fc05bff.jpg

To my surprise, they came up easily...BUT on the left-most tab (the last one I moved)...WOW...

The paint already scraped off................................seriously I know cheap paint - I drive a Mitsubishi - but this is barely a whole coat on the mesh. TO AVOID THIS, PUT SOME ELECTRICAL TAPE (OR ANY TAPE) BEFORE GRIPPING!

B7CAD189-AAC5-4817-A0F5-3F3FA7FCF930-39157-0000628C1EF8D70E_zps426130dc.jpg

DCD43E9B-CAC7-43C4-BC4A-CD57E638C2AC-39157-0000628C0D4E0C2B_zps208e22b1.jpg

I was afraid that the tabs at the bottom would stop me from prying it open as the bottom was much better constructed - thankfully as you can see above, you can get enough room.

After you pry it open enough, the NXZT label might/will pop out (it's just sandwiched in there with two holes, not screwed.....ok NZXT, I guess screwing this part in would have been asking for too much rolleyes.gif

Right below it, you will see the hole that the LED shines through. I couldn't get a good close up picture of this, but you should know what you're looking for and see it easily. If you can't, pry the mesh out a little further. With those pliers, I managed to slip some tape in to cover it

Closed it up - forgetting the NXZT label - but popped it in over the Mesh and it stayed (maybe it was over the mesh rather than under? I don't remember)

And YAY - it's gone!

C2B3BB1F-1DFB-4FB6-BF22-7C4B4A5A364E-39296-0000629517601111_zps8a10aec5.jpg

Note - I don't hate NZXT or this controller. The main function of it - the control through the sliders - feels VERY good. The LED may be a small problem to others, but I value aesthetics and matching, and it REALLY bugged me. So if anyone out there is considering this controller but would consider this a deal breaker, don't let it stop you!

I didn't see any mods or guides like this from google, so I just thought I'd share. I know there are lots of people out there that are bothered by small stuff like this redface.gif
post #2 of 3
Your pictures are really hard to see... There is an easier way to get to the LED and mod it... If you take all the screws out and gently remove the plate from the front mesh, its easy to cut off the LED then solder a new one on.. Pay attention to how the positive side on the original LED though before cutting.
Supernova
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2500k EVGA Z68 micro sli 2 EVGA GTX 670s Corsair Vengence 16gb 
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Curcial M4 126gb WD 1tb Koolance 240/360 rad, PMP 450s pump, 370 si blo... 10 Bitfenix Spectre Pro PWN fans 
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Win 7 x64 NZXT Hale90 v2 1000w Bitfenix Raider - modded Mayhems Aurora SuperNova 
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Supernova
(12 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 2500k EVGA Z68 micro sli 2 EVGA GTX 670s Corsair Vengence 16gb 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
Curcial M4 126gb WD 1tb Koolance 240/360 rad, PMP 450s pump, 370 si blo... 10 Bitfenix Spectre Pro PWN fans 
OSPowerCaseOther
Win 7 x64 NZXT Hale90 v2 1000w Bitfenix Raider - modded Mayhems Aurora SuperNova 
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post #3 of 3
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xD3aDPooLx View Post

Your pictures are really hard to see... There is an easier way to get to the LED and mod it... If you take all the screws out and gently remove the plate from the front mesh, its easy to cut off the LED then solder a new one on.. Pay attention to how the positive side on the original LED though before cutting.

I wanted to keep it simple though, just thought I'd share
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