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post #11 of 18
For acrylic? Definitely a heat gun. Careful not to let the acrlic get past 170 Celsius or it begins to burn, and releases toxic vapors.
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post #12 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

Heat-treat it. Pop off the acrylic top, preheat the oven to 105celcius, put the acrylic on a sheet of wax paper, then put that wax paper on a pan to assure it's on a flat surface, then pop it in the oven for 1-2 hours.

Good advice, but I'd try at 80C first because some types of acrylic have a lower transition temperature. Recommend also to let it cool naturally - just switch off oven after two hours and let it get down to under 50C before opening the oven door. I do this a lot with acrylic paint to reflow imperfections and improve surface strength. If 80C doesn't do it, go up in steps of 5C. Might take some time, but once you find the right transition temperature you can reflow your acrylic block almost as good as new.
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post #13 of 18
Wow that thing is pretty well eff'd. Use some teflon tape next time, you won't have to tighten it down as hard. Technically, NPT threads aren't supposed to be liquid proof anyways, only NPFT threads are. NPT threads are always supposed to be used with teflon tape. Most people don't know that and I think all the new blocks are moving to BSP G threads now with a rubber o-ring so things like this won't happen.
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post #14 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

For acrylic? Definitely a heat gun. Careful not to let the acrlic get past 170 Celsius or it begins to burn, and releases toxic vapors.

I meant for the acetal top.
post #15 of 18
how much did you tigthen the fittings? and where it fittings without oring?
post #16 of 18
With acetal? Honestly I'd go to home depot and try some j&b weld, or whatever its called, and seal it from the inside. Its really hard to get things to stick to acetal from what I understand. I don't think a heat gun would work for acetal, and hot glue or silicon probably won't stick.
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post #17 of 18
@ToothBear

As previously stated in this thread, acrylic can dry out/age and become very prone to cracking like that.
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post #18 of 18
]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToothBear View Post

how much did you tigthen the fittings? and where it fittings without oring?

The fittings didn't cause it. I propably just have a faulty top. I wrote XSPC, hoping they will replace the top.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

With acetal? Honestly I'd go to home depot and try some j&b weld, or whatever its called, and seal it from the inside. Its really hard to get things to stick to acetal from what I understand. I don't think a heat gun would work for acetal, and hot glue or silicon probably won't stick.

Yeah, thats propably true and even if it sticks the risk that it won't when it's getting warm is too high.

Guess I will have to hope for a replacement and if not buy a new block, seems like there is no easy and secure way to leakproof acetal.

Thanks for all your responses.
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