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Beginner's Guide For Water-Cooling 2013! - Page 8

post #71 of 322
Whoa, what the hell happened to the guide? I was reading that. I'm so lost. So, very, very lost.
post #72 of 322
There is some kind of error with the bbcode or something to that effect hiding the 1st post guide. You can still see it's there if you quote it.

I'll try to remove/edit some of the formatting and see if it posts as a quote here:
Originally Posted by REPUBLICOFGAMER View Post

Hey Overclock.net !!!!!!
Today I thought I would sit down for a few hours and make a new beginners water-cooling guide because I have been seeing allot of people on the forums making the switch and asking for help because allot of the beginners guides for water-cooling on the internet are outdated are just not correct ! so REPUBLICOFGAMER is here to solve this issue!!!!!!!
So A little bit about me I am 18 (19 in sep) and have been building computers since the age of 10 !, I was the kid who always would take things apart just to see how they worked or to just see what I can do with it !, It was not always put together again but hey kids will be kids biggrin.gif so ever since that I have been in love with technology and cars and anything that has a moving part in it! I have been water-cooling computers for 3 1/2 years now and Truly am in love with the looks and performance AND NOW I CAN NOT STOP! HELP! thumb.gif okay so now that you know a little about me lets start this guide!!!! PS IF YOU ARE HERE TO TROLL ON HOW THIS GUIDE IS WRITTEN , ARE MY VOCABULARY SUCKS PLEASE KEEP IT OUT OF THE COMMENTS !


Why water-cool?- PERFORMANCE,BETTER LOOKS AND QUIETER RUNNING SYSTEMS is a common reason why allot of people go water-cooling , If you are not overclocking your computer then there is really no need for water-cooling I would suggest getting a nice Air cooler (Such as hyper 212 and 212+ they are cheap and work flawlessly! ) , but If you are going to give it a very mild over-clock I recommend just getting a AIO cooler To be safe! ( AIO STAND'S FOR ALL IN ONE LIQUID COOLER!)

I will give you a example of my computer!
I had the stock CPU cooler on my 8350 just to see if the little cooler could keep up at stock clock's (4Ghz) and I played Battlefield 3 for only about 10 Mins before the cooler sounded like a jet and my temps hit 70c!!!!!!! bare in mind that no settings were changed!!!! so the heatsinks we get with the new CPU's these days are Far From good!!!! So I Got a water-cooling loop planned out and built and overclocked my 8350 to 5.0Ghz stable at 1.55V and temps never go above 50C !!!! , Now tell me can your air cooler do that !!

How much does it cost?- This depends on the components you are trying to cool, and which parts you choose to water cool them with, Keeping in mind that when you are water-cooling you never want to go dirt cheap! are it will come back to bite you in the butt!!!!!!! so I will put a range from 300-700 USD for a nice simple GOOD QUALITY loop! but also keep in mind that is a estimate and can Be done between those two numbers! BUT its very easy to go over those numbers!

Is it worth the risk over air cooling?- If you are looking to get the most performance out of your computer with overclocking then yes but if you just wan't good temps and a cool look at factory settings then no !

What benefit does water cooling offer over air cooling?- More overclocking headroom, a quieter solution (if you picked the right components), a more suitable solution for a high-ambient-room-temperature situation, to save space (in the CPU area) so you don't have to worry about tall memory heatspreaders or northbridge heatsinks, less stress on the motherboard due to the CPU block weight being lighter than most air cooling heatsinks. and also it looks really cool thumb.gifwink.gif but with all seriousness if you live in a really hot place are have a really hot room this will help your computer so much!

What are some good stores to get my water-cooling gear from?-


What are some good water-cooling brands?-
Heat killer
Black Ice

What is a CPU block?- this is what cools the CPU, which is one of the hottest components when overclocked. Beware when choosing your CPU block and make sure you buy the right model; some CPU blocks also come with a back-plate. Back-plates just add pressure to give slight performance gain, also make sure that the block is compatible with your chip this can be done by matching socket types such as AM3 , LGA 1155 , 1366 etc there are many different ones so MAKE SURE YOU GET THE RIGHT ONE!

What is a water-cooling pump?- this component will move the fluid through the loop; a stronger pump will able to push the water around more quickly. If your loop has very restrictive components, a stronger pump will improve the overall temperature.also The pump I always recommenced is a MCP655 because it is a strong pump and is built like bull!
Note: never let the pump run dry (meaning without water), it will fry the pump in a matter of seconds.

What is a radiator?- this component is where the heat dissipates, the larger the radiator is in size, the more surface area will be available to dissipate heat. I recommend having at-least a 360mm radiator (3 120mm fan's) for a standered CPU+GPU LOOP! , there are many different sizes such as 240 , 120, 360, 1080,280 etc make sure that you look in your case and make sure you have the space for the rad you want!


What size tubing do I need?-
A very popular size is 1/2 by 3/4 are 1/2 by 3/8 now when deciding on tubing there are many different brands to choose from! a brand I always use is primochill tubing! , now keep in mind The larger the diameter of your tubing, the higher the flow rate will be and the less likely that the tubing can become kinked (bent/knotted, impairing the water flow)

What is a res?- this is the tube are bay res that holds the liquid! Are can also
hold a pump in the back of it so your loop looks more cleaner!
Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, z1.1.0. ||B2

What kind of fittings should I use?- Okay this is where allot of people get confused , since there is so many sizes it messes with peoples head's when really you just match the tubing size to the fitting
EXAMPLE - for 1/2 by 3/4 tubing I need a compression fitting of ID = 1/2 OD= 3/4 are if I was to use a barb fitting I would use 1/2 barb's!

Compression fittings are barbs?- this is up to you barb fittings are allot cheaper but they are not really eye appealing and you have to buy clamps to keep the tube from coming off , SO I like to use compression fittings because they are more safe and look allot better but all and all this is totally up to you!

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 100

What kind of coolant should I use?-
once again this is up to you I like to use the EK coolant because it has all the additives already to stop corrosion and bacteria , but allot of people like to use distilled water and dye and add the stuff them selves keeping in mind the distilled water is allot cheaper! NOTE NEVER USE TAP WATER!

What is a good order to arrange my loop in?- Res-pump-cpu block -rad-res is a common configuration! MAKE SURE THAT THE RES IS ALWAYS ABOVE THE PUMP AND THAT THE REST ALWAYS GOES INTO THE PUMP AT ALL TIMES!

What are good fan's to use for radiators?- Gentile typoon's are the new corsair SP series fans ( SP stands for static pressure )

How long should I leak test for?- I leak test for about 5 hours if it does not leak withen those 5 hours I would give you the green light to go ahead and enjoy the loop!

How do I leak test?-
this is done by jumping your power-supply with a paper clip GREEN+BLACK wire will short the power supply into turning on ( make sure THAT NOTING IS PLUGGED INTO IT BUT THE PUMP!!!!!) and then its as simple as flipping the switch back and fourth !

Leak testing tips?- When leak testing I like to put pwer towels over all of the main things like the power supply and on the graphics card and anywhere there is a fitting connecting a hose to a block , this way if there is a leak it will be allot easier to notice it and fix it! even if it is the smallest leak you will see it! , and like I said before do this for about 5 hours if you keep checking up on it and there are no leaks you are as good as gold!

Maintenance?- In addition to blowing dust out every 3 to 6 months like air-cooling, one needs to drain and replace the water every 6 to 12 months even if all looks fine. This allows one to flush the system with distilled water to clean out that bit of radiator sludge that was impossible to remove initially or to catch plasticizer leaching from the tubing like Tygon 3603 or Masterkleer brand or Primochill Primoflex LRT. One may also need to add biocide unless using silver, in which case it gets more concentrated over time, which is good. This is also the time to fix any kinked tubing or perform upgrades you have been wanting to try.if you see the water level getting low just make sure you top it off!

Helpful Tips!
  • if you can NOT get a tube over a barb are compression try putting the tube in hot water to make it flex a little
  • never put the water tanks on radiators facing up ( holds air bubbles)
  • All fittings and tubes should be hand tight! no tools!
  • to get air bubbles out flick the tubes , turn the case on its side,turn the power supply off.... This is only some ways of doing it! There are many more!
  • Always plan out the loop before buying parts so you do not get stuck with stuff you can NOT use! and do your research!

Some Kits That I would Recommend For Some Ones First Loop!
( 360 MM Water Cooling Kit Recommendations)

160.00$ USD
XSPC Raystorm Extreme Universal CPU Watercooling Kit w/ RS360 Radiator

RayStorm CPU Waterblock
X2O 750 Pump/Reservoir
RS360 Triple Radiator
G1/4 to 1/2" Barb (Black Chrome) x6
Plastic Hose Clip x6
XSPC 1650rpm 120mm Fan x3
120mm Fan Grill (Black) x3
Intel and AMD RayStorm Brackets
Socket 1366 and 1155/1154 Backplates
Socket AM2 and AM3 mounting kit
80mm to 120mm Radiator brackets
3mm Twin Blue LED with 4Pin Molex
5mm Blue LED with 4Pin Molex
2 Meters of Clear 7/16; Hose
24pin ATX Bridge Tool
K2 Thermal Paste

240.00$ USD
Alphacool NexXxoS Cool Answer 360 DDC/XT - Kit

1x Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light - Acetal Edition - Intel/AMD
1x Alphacool Repack - Laing DDC - 5.25 Bay Station
1x Laing DDC-Pumpe 12V DDC-1T
1x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 360mm
3x Alphacool Hose AlphaTube HF 13/10 (3/8"ID) - Clear
6x 13/10 (10x1.5mm) Screws G1/4 - Matte Black
3x 120mm Fan ca. 1300rpm ( 120x120x25mm )
1x Coolant Clear 1000ml
1x ATX-jumper (24 Pin)
ALL OF THIS FOR 240.00$!

260.00$ USD
XSPC Raystorm Extreme Universal CPU Watercooling Kit w/ EX360

Raystorm CPU Waterblock
Socket 2011, 1366 and 1156(1155, 775 Backplates)
Socket AM2 and AM3 Block Optional
XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir - w/ D5 Vario Pump
5mm Blue LED with 4Pin Molex
EX360 Radiator
Low Noise 120mm Fan x 3
120mm Fan Grill x 3
2M (6.5')' Clear Tubing
Compression fittings x 6
Thermal Paste

260.00$ USD
EK-KIT L360 Water Cooling Kit
post #73 of 322
Thread Starter 
Thank you , I have now fixed the problem ! , And Will start working on this ASAP!
post #74 of 322
Pretty solid guide, however a few things.

I would say proof read the whole post a few times. The biggest thing that I picked up was the use of allot, you should be using a lot. (I am not great spelling grammar either, maybe ask someone to check over it for you)
EDIT: I didn't read the blurb about not caring about the grammar etc. Going to leave this here as its probably worth checking. If you want I can give it a quick once over, but it might be worth seeing if someone else on here is willing to give it a good proof read. It usually just makes it easier to read.

In regards to the res - I would go into a bit more detail Pros/Cons of Tube vs Bay. This was one of the biggest things for me when getting my first set up.

The coolant section I think should be updated a bit. Generally I would recommend (and has been recommended to me from more experienced people) distilled and kill-coil/biocide for first time coolers. Mainly because its easier to see bubbles floating around and less complications for first time users. This added with clear tubing.

And finally the leak-test (as far as I have read so far) I would say to improve on this. I have always been told for the first 5 or so hours to check every hour for leaks and first time users should let it run for 24 hours before re-connecting any parts. Another thing I read was to use the combination of UV dye and a UV light to detect leaks, not sure how well it works. I tried it recently but didn't have any leaks to check.
Edited by andyv - 9/8/13 at 4:05am
post #75 of 322
Thread Starter 
Thank you! that will be in my next edit thats coming! , and yea I have to have some one go through this with me for the spelling!
post #76 of 322
Originally Posted by andyv View Post

In regards to the res - I would go into a bit more detail Pros/Cons of Tube vs Bay. This was one of the biggest things for me when getting my first set up.

Okay, since I'm working toward my first custom loop build you got me curious, what are the Pros/Cons of Tube vs Bay?
post #77 of 322
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by DarkStarX View Post

Okay, since I'm working toward my first custom loop build you got me curious, what are the Pros/Cons of Tube vs Bay?

The pros of a bay res is its always mounted in the front (looks) , built stronger, more simple to use, fool prof,
cons are, it takes up 2 5.25 bays (most of the time) , hard to fill if something is mounted on top of it, harder to clean, more expensive,

Tube res pros, mount where ever (aslong as above pump) , bigger sizes, less expensive, easy to clean, comes in some nice colors, looks nicer etc

That's. Is only alittle, I am sure I can think of allot more I will add this into this guide later with others
post #78 of 322
Nice guide! Subbed! It will be great to include things needed to be done before installing the loop, like flushing etc. thumb.gif
post #79 of 322
Thread Starter 
Will write that down for a future update!
post #80 of 322
I don't agree that bay reservoirs are more expensive than tube. It all depends on what you buy, you can't really compare the two. Take the FrozenQ tubes for example
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