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Guiding Air Conditioner Vent into PC - safe? - Page 3

post #21 of 23
Guys, TwoCables is right. I am have my WRT certification from the IICRC and I know how this air stuff works. Humidity is not the amount of moisture in the air, it is a ratio of how much moisture the air is holding compared to the maximum it can hold before saturation. GPP is the actual amount of moisture in the air, warm air carries can hold much more moisture than cold air.

An Air Conditioner is simply a giant dehumidifier that cools the air instead of warming it.
post #22 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poisoner View Post

Guys, TwoCables is right. I am have my WRT certification from the IICRC and I know how this air stuff works. Humidity is not the amount of moisture in the air, it is a ratio of how much moisture the air is holding compared to the maximum it can hold before saturation. GPP is the actual amount of moisture in the air, warm air carries can hold much more moisture than cold air.

An Air Conditioner is simply a giant dehumidifier that cools the air instead of warming it.

 

Thank you! With a humidity of 58% and an air temperature of approximately 73°F, the only risk would be doing this on a hot and humid day, opening the windows for an hour or two, and then turning the A.C. off. The parts that are still cold will get some condensation because the humidity level will definitely be higher than 58% and the temperature will be higher than 73 as well. Although, the condensation will probably be a very thin layer (like fog), kind of like how eyeglasses form a thin layer in the winter ("fog up") when coming inside, or when it's extremely hot and humid out and you get out of your car after having the freezing cold A.C. blasting you in the face.

 

In other words, there won't be any "sweating", and since you won't be opening the windows (unless you like the hot and humid air), there won't be any condensation either. Like I said, put a glass of water in your room and then put a bunch of ice cubes in it and watch for condensation. This should simulate taking the A.C. away from the PC, but only for the parts that are not generating their own heat or being heated by anything nearby. If there is any condensation at all, then it'll only last for a couple of minutes.

It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.400-1.424V in Manual Mode) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.400-1.424V in Manual Mode) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
  hide details  
Reply
post #23 of 23
Thread Starter 
I figured I would bump this just to say everything is still running fine, in case anyone wondered.

Thanks for all of the input.
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