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Help me pick a custom loop set up! I have 280 dollars! - Page 2

post #11 of 15
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I guess thats a good point. Right now I am just using a POS coolit eco ii, the non retail h60, and its OOOOOOKAAYYYYY, but i hate having a 30 dollar cooler in my rig, looks like crap, performs mediocre, and makes me crazy knowing it could leak any second. Maybe i should just drop 130 on a nice 240mm swiftech and save the pain and money of buying a custom loop.

Better idea you think? Only thing i am worried is that ill have to either mount it on top of my case or maybe do something unique and mount the rad on my acrylic window right across from the cpu. But then itd be a hassle to get the sidepanel off... thoughts on mods to fit a 240?
post #12 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by AcidTabVocab View Post

I guess thats a good point. Right now I am just using a POS coolit eco ii, the non retail h60, and its OOOOOOKAAYYYYY, but i hate having a 30 dollar cooler in my rig, looks like crap, performs mediocre, and makes me crazy knowing it could leak any second. Maybe i should just drop 130 on a nice 240mm swiftech and save the pain and money of buying a custom loop.

Better idea you think? Only thing i am worried is that ill have to either mount it on top of my case or maybe do something unique and mount the rad on my acrylic window right across from the cpu. But then itd be a hassle to get the sidepanel off... thoughts on mods to fit a 240?

I think the H220 would be a really good way to go. I know you dont want to mount it on the top but I think that would be best with your case. With the H220 you could shorten the lines to make an external top mount as clean as possible. It would be best to mount the 240 in the front of your case but you would obviously have to remove the drive cage and I think you would still run into end tank clearance issues with the bottom of your case and the bottom of your 5.25 bay.
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post #13 of 15
I think that even when going with single fat 120 mm you would get better temperatures than going with H100. That is with taking into account that H100 is actually already 2x120 mm unit. Thing is it has aluminium radiator while full copper thick 120 mm will offer similar surface area and copper is significantly enough better at transferring heat that the difference should be there. Then you can add in there on top of that that in custom loop you will have much stronger pump and most likely a reservoir as well which will smooth out the temperature shocks when the load spikes. Well with water calling it a shock is a bit over-dramatizing it ofc, even with just the few hundred ml of liquid present in H100.

Plus, if you decide to expand later on it is possible with custom loop while with H100 its tricky at best.

You can always go with some rad that is thick and has really thick fins (for added surface area) and then slap it with a monster fan, like Kaze Ultra 32mm thick one or two if you overclock heavily.

PS. With only a single 120mm in there consider also the pump heat dump so if you get D5 get just a single one and run it at some reasonable wattage, not at max power. Or single DC-LT which I liked earlier should get the job done as well even though its a bit on the small side.
Edited by Carniflex - 7/7/13 at 11:50pm
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post #14 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carniflex View Post

I think that even when going with single fat 120 mm you would get better temperatures than going with H100. That is with taking into account that H100 is actually already 2x120 mm unit. Thing is it has aluminium radiator while full copper thick 120 mm will offer similar surface area and copper is significantly enough better at transferring heat that the difference should be there. Then you can add in there on top of that that in custom loop you will have much stronger pump and most likely a reservoir as well which will smooth out the temperature shocks when the load spikes. Well with water calling it a shock is a bit over-dramatizing it ofc, even with just the few hundred ml of liquid present in H100.

Plus, if you decide to expand later on it is possible with custom loop while with H100 its tricky at best.

You can always go with some rad that is thick and has really thick fins (for added surface area) and then slap it with a monster fan, like Kaze Ultra 32mm thick one or two if you overclock heavily.

Nowhere was an H100 recommended by anyone. The OP was considering an H220, which is easily expandable.
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post #15 of 15
Given your budget my recommendation would be:

A new case... preferably one that holds a triple radiator.

Then http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16892/ex-wat-220/XSPC_Raystorm_750_RS360_Extreme_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g30c321s1310

If you can swing the RX360 version instead of the RS360 then do it. The RS360 will outperform the RX240. So go with the biggest radiator you can afford that will fit in the new case.

That pump is more than enough to handle that CPU water block the radiator and 1 GPU block or 2 GPU blocks in parallel. If you get GPU blocks at a later time make sure they have very good flow.

I think it is a waste of time to spend your money on a water cooling kit with a single radiator. I don't even see it out perfroming a Hyper212+ but I may be wrong.

I might recommend the H20-X20 kit if you want to keep your current case and are willing to mount externally. I would pay the extra for the triple radiator. The MCP-35x pump that it uses can handle massive upgrades to the loop.
Edited by givmedew - 7/8/13 at 12:05am
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