I'm going to get a hole saw. The front two holes will be visible, so I want them to be perfect.
Tell me what you guys think about this so far.
There's just no way to get the top 240mm radiator inside the case, even if I flip it. This, however, could be beneficial to the functionality of the final case design. What I'm planning on doing is mounting my H220 externally on the top, with the fill-port facing up as it should. The two fans mounted on the rad will have wire guards since they will be exposed. I don't want anyone losing fingers around my build. The tubes from the H220 will need their own holes cut in order to enter the case, that'll be easy.
And since I'll have an accessible fill-port, I might as well make a drain port on the bottom! Maybe one of these:
To mount the new top and front plates I'm going to use 6-32 Thread Black Oxide Steel Screws with nuts. I figure this is better than riveting or trying to tap the original chassis to accept new screws. This also means I can torque the hell out of them to ensure the case stays rigid and square.
I'm either going to use button head's, or tapered ones. The button head's would obviously stick out and make a very industrial look. The tapered screws would require me to countersink the holes in the new panels. I'm not quite sure the steel is thick enough for this. If I was working with 1/8" Aluminum it would be no problem.
So what do you guys think? Protruding button heads or attempt to make the front flush?
Examples of the two types I'm deciding between: