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Custom Built Glass Reservoir constant air bubbles - Page 2

post #11 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post

That isn't the problem he is having at all. As you can see when he tilts it the bubbles go away. If you look at all the well designed reservoirs they either shoot the water in from the bottom or they use a tube from the top the goes well below the water line.

The bubbles go away because the air groups up at the top and is no longer being forced down by the water. Properly bleeding all those bubbles out, then using a piece of tubing attached to the part of the Y-splitter he's using as a fill port gets rid of the bubbles entirely, and as long as you don't let the water levels in the tube attached to the fillport go to low the bubbles stop.

Again, I had this same problem on my res and that is how I solved it. As for that insert suggestion, he used an adhesive to mount the barb, so he can't simply do that. It would be the preferable resolution but its not attainable with the current design.
Edited by ZytheEKS - 7/14/13 at 7:37am
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post #12 of 16
The top inlet requires a tube to bring the return feed below the waterline.
Because you are jetting water in above the surface,air is getting mixed with the water which is getting sucked in the pump.
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post #13 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

The top inlet requires a tube to bring the return feed below the waterline.
Because you are jetting water in above the surface,air is getting mixed with the water which is getting sucked in the pump.

It's been suggested already, multiple times.
Quote:
Hmm... I like the idea but the problem is that my fitting is already epoxied in, I don't see a way to run the hose through my existing fitting into the reservoir while holding it in place?

Again, just hook a barb or fitting to the part of the y fitting you're using as a fillport and run it up to the area on the chassis you're using as a fillport. When you bleed the loop, makes sure to get all those air bubbles out, and keep the waterline in the tube up. That's what I did on my rig. As long as the waterline doesn't drop low enough to allow air under the inlet on the res there will be no bubbles.
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post #14 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

I had the same problem with my setup. The solution was simply to bleed it very well.

Thank you all for the helpful suggestions. I ended up trying multiple methods to resolve the issue and ZytheEKS's suggestion with careful bleeding ended up working fairly well. I'm still considering using a large piece of aquarium filter in the lower half of the bottle to decrease the amount of bubbles reaching my pump. With the reservoir topped off I don't even see microbubbles but am worried that since it is in a LAN case that I may see more bubbles later after traveling.
post #15 of 16
Thread Starter 
Anyone have an opinion if I dropped one of these into the reservoir?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13133/ex-res-280/Phobya_Reservoir_Filter_Sponge_-_50x50x50mm.html
post #16 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickcnse View Post

Thank you all for the helpful suggestions. I ended up trying multiple methods to resolve the issue and ZytheEKS's suggestion with careful bleeding ended up working fairly well. I'm still considering using a large piece of aquarium filter in the lower half of the bottle to decrease the amount of bubbles reaching my pump. With the reservoir topped off I don't even see microbubbles but am worried that since it is in a LAN case that I may see more bubbles later after traveling.


Just use a compression fitting/barb on the fillport, and run some tubing up to where the fillport on the case will be. Your loop WILL lose coolant eventually, they always do. This means unless you have something to feed new coolant into the reservoir the bubbles will come back. A short length of tubing works well enough in my experience. So long as you don't let the coolant levels in that little tube that runs to the fillport drop below the part where the y fitting meets no bubbles come back.
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