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Paint, Enamel or Laquer

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 
Which paint should I use? Enamel or Laquer, when painting my case. I painted once with laquer primer under flat black laquer and I can still scrap the paint off the case with my fingernail . I took my time to take all the old paint off and sand it down good. I think my problem was it was too cold. It has been warm lately so I will try to paint, and on top of that I am going to put the paint in warm water before painting to hopefully get a better paint job. Do any of ou guys have any more ideas on how to make my paint stick better. I am also going to paint my dvd drive covers (grey metal part) a bright orange, should be nice don't ya think?

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post #2 of 12
Enamel is far more durable.
Furthermore a Zink Chromate primer for ONLY bare metal will improve adhesion to all metals, except stainless which sucks to paint period.
    
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post #3 of 12
But lacquer is easier to sand...LOL
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post #4 of 12
Thread Starter 
Alright, I will go with enamel. Yeah, I stripped it down to bare metal, it was tough, along with a lot of stripper applying and putty knife pushing , at least this stuff will be easy to strip off. Well tomorrow I am off to ACE to get some paint, flat black or gloss, which do you guys think would look better with orange? I will get orange and some clear coat, and a paint brush to paint the stripper on my UPS unit which I will be painting black instead of seeing the ugly beige color. Thanks for the quick replys BTW!

Easy sanding ppssshhh, I will take durability over ease of sanding down any day

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post #5 of 12
The Zink Chromate primer I suggested is available at a lot of auto parts stores, then put a common primer over it for light sanding then the paint.
    
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post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 
Alright bro, I'll try to get some, sounds like it must stick really good. I just wish I had an airbrush, I would love to have a good one of those, and a good aircompressor to run it with.

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post #7 of 12
The ZC primer ( in a spray can) must go in with thin but wet coats so that it etches the metal but not runs, once it's well dries, you can lightly sand out any specks. Prime over it and sand as necessary to remove additional specs. But so vacuum prior to any painting and tack cloth all surfaces prior to applying any paint to remove all those pesky specks possible... of course, dry paint surfaces.
    
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post #8 of 12
I think Glossy cases look 'da bomb'.
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post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by noxious89123 View Post
I think Glossy cases look 'da bomb'.
Haha well put.


The Duke: Thanks for the instructions! Never thought about vaccuming, I always used dentured alcohal to wipe it down.

Well guys it seems that I will be stripping off all my hard work. I might even see if I could borrow my nieghbor's sand blaster and try to sand blast the crap off. Will sand blasting it be bad?

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post #10 of 12
Not if you stick to finer grained sand/glass.

And you might wanna go with a couple of coats of enamel clear coat too.

Don't neglect this, best ever paint tutorial before you give a final go.
You won't be disapointed with results usin this guide:

http://www.wizdforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=3697
  
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