Originally Posted by larymoencurly
1. Overtemperature shutdown. Not every PSU has it.
2. An LED for each voltage rail that blinks if its particular rail's voltage is out of spec.
3. No stupid modular cables because they can get lost, and "modular" is a stupid name for them.
4. Ribbon cables because they're the most flexible and don't need cable stiffening heatshrink or wire ties.
5. Individual current limiting for each device, rather than one for each whole rail.
Originally Posted by Masta Squidge
Yeah dude. Amateur.
Protip: Decorators are professionals too. That is the whole point of doing it, for appearance. A technician would never waste his or her time on cosmetic details. Which means it would wind up looking exactly how an amateur would build a PC.
This is what an amateur does. If he or she can even be bothered to make the effort to route cables:
This is what you get from a technician:
Because a "technician" put that Alienware together. Note how it looks nearly identical to the amateur rig.
1: If it just flat out shut down, you risk damage to files.
2: Buy a multimeter, or better yet, get a voltmeter and mod it into the case. No LED indicator is going to tell you more than just a yes or no. Possibly red/yellow/green for a bit of a range... a dedicated voltmeter is a much better choice, if you want some kind of indicator at all times.
3: If you can't find a way to not lose those cables, that is your problem. The rest of us don't want 40 unused cables stuffed inside of our cases.
4: Really? Ribbon cables are more flexible because they are much thinner wires. A ribbon cable cannot handle that kind of current, and if it can... it won't be any more flexible than a bundled cable. A ribbon cable on a PSU is the absolute last thing you ever want.
5: Current limiting for each device would drive the cost into the hundreds, and would require an individual controller and cable for each one.
I hope nobody takes these suggestions seriously, barring the LED thing, which would be cool.... but expensive.
I don't see any difference among those 3 computers, except the orange computer has dark everything, including the cables, which might make it hard to see things in the there (maybe it just looks that way due to the photo).
I'd rather have a tech who knows nothing about decorating than a decorator who knows nothing about tech.
The fire resistance of the cables depends on their materials. Is anybody modding with Teflon-coated wires?
1. I'd like orderly shutdown, too, but with some hardware failures there's no time for that without allowing further damage, including fire or when the insulation melts and makes wires short together.
2. A lot of people refuse to use multimeters or even open up their computers. OTOH blinking "overvoltage/undervoltage" lights are pretty
obvious, but even better would be an LCD controlled by the PSU that gives power diagnostic messages in plain language.
3. It's not my problem because I simply keep all the modular
cables connected to the PSU. It's other people who've complained about losing modular
cables. That's what my glue-on rear view mirror example means: older screwed-on mirrors never came off, just as permanently soldered PSU cables never got lost.
4. Ribbon cables are more flexible because they're thinner cables, not thinner wires, The individual wires are the same thickness but just not made into a stiff cable by nylon ties or heatshrink at the ends.
5. Not hundreds of $$$, even if hand made with love in an Old World master craftsman Gepetto's private shop. How much do you think a bunch of LM339 chips and current shunts cost? Or build the shunts into the circuit board to make them practically free. Most of the cost will probably be for extra cables because you can't sense the current for each separate connector on a daisy chain. But realistic current limiting for each drive, video card, and motherboard is better than a single limit of tens of amps.Edited by larymoencurly - 7/22/13 at 8:11pm