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post #11 of 18
I was thinking either the hinges from the screen or make a bracket. As for the hdds you will only know if will fit when you try n iff they will id put em there as gives you more room in the main part.

Best way to estimate measure the thickness off a laptop screen in the bezel ect n the depth of the lid. Measuring screen with bezel n lid gives you that bit off room for stuff like the inverter ect.
post #12 of 18
The only thing that I am seeing working is getting a screen like this

http://www.aocmonitorap.com/root/my/product_display.php?id=277

Either remove the stand to transport, or orient it so it can be left on while the pc case is in the box and a mini itx case like this

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811163233

Doing mini itx build, then using stiff foam and making cut outs to protect everything, then it would just be a carrying case for your gaming station. Even so a combination like this *might* barely fit and of course won't have room for a keyboard, but small accessories like mouse, flash drive, cds ect. may.

I am really against doing builds like this, for me the purpose of a desktop is to have a very powerful, no mobile machine with great cooling and a big, hi resolution screen.

I really think you would be better off with a laptop. It may be more expensive, but there are lots of machines out there that will fit your needs and will have an attractive, easy to transport form factor, with the added benefit of being able to be used without being plugged into the wall.

Currently I am using a dell precision m6700 laptop and am loving it. Quad core i7, 16gb of ram. Nivida k3000m graphics (works ok for gaming, not high performance for gaming, but kicks butt on my 3D modeling program Solidworks, its about the same price as a gtx680m card) 3HDD slots (if optical drive removed, 2 if not), came with 750GB HDD I added a 120GB SSD for system and modeling programs.

I picked it up refurbished from an authorized seller and it has a 3 year warranty with business level customer support. I paid around $1700 while new they retail for like 3K. I'd really recommend splurging on a high end laptop, which may turn out to be about the same price when you factor in the time spent trying to make your case pc work, plus it will be much more mobile and usable. There isn't really a pro about the build you want to do other than it might be something that you have always wanted to try and possibly end up being less expensive.
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post #13 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by richie_2010 View Post

I was thinking either the hinges from the screen or make a bracket. As for the hdds you will only know if will fit when you try n iff they will id put em there as gives you more room in the main part.

Best way to estimate measure the thickness off a laptop screen in the bezel ect n the depth of the lid. Measuring screen with bezel n lid gives you that bit off room for stuff like the inverter ect.

Yeah, I will probably be stealing your HDD idea, I bet they wouldn't receive as much impact if the case is thrown around if they are mounted on the lid. As for the laptop LCD, I know those are thin and I can make a custom bezel around the LCD that would fit the lid, but I have no idea how to get a laptop LCD to work after I gut the laptop. If anyone can shed any light on how to get a laptop LCD to work in my situation I would be EXTREMELY grateful.
post #14 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PurdueBoy View Post

The only thing that I am seeing working is getting a screen like this

http://www.aocmonitorap.com/root/my/product_display.php?id=277
Ohh, that's thin. I appreciate that link. I actually have an AOC monitor that might fit, but that one definitely would fit, I would just get rid of that
mount and reinforce it into the case. I'm just a little worried about the hinges breaking on the case; those are the first to go on my laptops.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PurdueBoy View Post

Either remove the stand to transport, or orient it so it can be left on while the pc case is in the box and a mini itx case like this

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811163233

Doing mini itx build, then using stiff foam and making cut outs to protect everything, then it would just be a carrying case for your gaming station. Even so a combination like this *might* barely fit and of course won't have room for a keyboard, but small accessories like mouse, flash drive, cds ect. may.

You're not the only person that has commented to me on the size of this being an issue, but I am not quite sure why you guys want me to use a mini-atx board *unless you're making this recommendation with a smaller box in mind*. If I wanted to, I could contstruct a small aluminum case to house the mobo, then surround that with the foam they use to protect guns; but that's going to give me issues when trying to setup a ventilation system. Maybe I could set this up with a watercooling system and have everything going through the foam. But I really don't feel comfortable setting up a mobile watercooling system.

All in all though, this should be able to fit a standard computer (no need for a mini-ATX) setup and a Bluetooth keyboard and mouse. Whether they be the flat small ones you get on a mac, or a gaming keyboard I am not sure yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PurdueBoy View Post

I am really against doing builds like this, for me the purpose of a desktop is to have a very powerful, no mobile machine with great cooling and a big, hi resolution screen.

I am sorry to hear you're against builds like this, I agree with you partly though. The purpose of a desktop is to have a very powerful machine that can burn DVD's, play any game you want, reflects it's owner, and a big part for me is that I can replace anything when it gets too old. I have a lot of friends who like to game and I enjoy doing LAN parties with them. I have other friends who can't afford a desktop and I let them borrow my spare every now and then (huge pain to resetup after the first 2-3 cycles). Screen size does not bother me too much, but I have taken my desktop to the library before just because I didn't want to deal with the 2k laptop I had back from 2007, my girlfriends 500 dollar laptop, or my parents 2k laptop they had from 2010.
I really think you would be better off with a laptop. It may be more expensive, but there are lots of machines out there that will fit your needs and will have an attractive, easy to transport form factor, with the added benefit of being able to be used without being plugged into the wall.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PurdueBoy View Post

Currently I am using a dell precision m6700 laptop and am loving it. Quad core i7, 16gb of ram. Nivida k3000m graphics (works ok for gaming, not high performance for gaming, but kicks butt on my 3D modeling program Solidworks, its about the same price as a gtx680m card) 3HDD slots (if optical drive removed, 2 if not), came with 750GB HDD I added a 120GB SSD for system and modeling programs.

I picked it up refurbished from an authorized seller and it has a 3 year warranty with business level customer support. I paid around $1700 while new they retail for like 3K. I'd really recommend splurging on a high end laptop, which may turn out to be about the same price when you factor in the time spent trying to make your case pc work, plus it will be much more mobile and usable.
Having said all that I believe that a pro to any laptop is it's mobility, I can whip that thing out on a train and play spore while I wait to get off. But all laptops have the con of not really having an upgradable GPU and they all lack in performance. I know some laptops have some slight upgrades to their APU's, but the cost is normally 200+ for minimal performance enhancement.

I might really end up buying a laptop, but saying you spent 1.3k on a 3k laptop that "works ok for gaming" is just painful for me to think of. That is a lot of money that I would rather spend elsewhere.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PurdueBoy View Post

There isn't really a pro about the build you want to do other than it might be something that you have always wanted to try and possibly end up being less expensive.

The pros to this setup is that it will have all the performance of a standard desktop (not gonna mess with overclocking when I know fans are going to be an issue) and it will be in a "carry-on" size, I will be able to take this with me to a library out of the country or to a Starbucks if I felt like it. I can take it wherever the is an outlet. It's not too big to carry around in public (at least for me). Sure a laptop is smaller, and lighter, but I just don't want to pay 1.3k for something that is "ok". If built correctly I believe I can make this thing more durable than a laptop aswell.

The primary reason I am doing this is because I want to take my desktop out of the country, I like my desktop. The main pro is that I get to take my desktop, I can take it wherever. I've used a lot of laptops, they slow down and they just don't work like my desktop works.

+REP, thanks for the input smile.gif
post #15 of 18
Well personally I recommended mini-itx not atx, unless that was a typo. High end mini itx/atx boards accept the same processors and graphic cards as huge boards. I think most people are recommending them because they are smaller, lighter, and will give you more options for mounting your other components in the box.

Sorry I kind of ranted before, I'll try to see if I can actually give some input on the questions you asked.

1. As for static electricity I'm not entirely sure on this one. It could be as simple is drilling a small hole and putting a bolt through it with a wire that you touch to the ground of of your power cable before your plug it in to discharge it. I know they make spray films that supposedly guard against static and big air ionizers that remove the charge.

2. I use a corsair H60 and the thing is pretty solid with a nice low profile and cools quite well. I don't see with it as long as you don't pinch the lines or try to force them into a position they don't want to go to. I think if your case has a big enough shock to mess with the cooler most of your other components and monitor are probably broken.

3. As for the hinges you could throw one of these on each side http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Large-Lid-Support/dp/B001DT3KEU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_5 . Would beef up the support greatly, but remember you are attaching them in plastic, you would need to bolt them, not screw them in and your mileage will vary compared to attaching these to a piece of wood. I've noticed that thing monitors seem to get a lot hotter (to the touch) than thicker monitors since they separate your touch from the hot components. You could use adhesive heat shielding material, the kind of stuff they use to protect car bodies from engine heat, but you are still going to have to vent that heat out in some way. I wouldn't put a piece of plexi glass in-front of your monitor, it smudges and scratches and may even cause some kind of refraction at different angles.

4. For your ventilation your two hottest components will be cpu and gpu. It kind of depends on what cooler your use, if you go with the corsair hydro you can mount the radiator away from the other components. For your gpu I would recommend one with a blower (not open face) so that it shoots the head straight out of the case. I don't think fan grommets are necessary, they do reduce vibration and look cool though.


5. I have never used one of these, but I think it could be awesome for your build



It would allow you the freedom to change the orientation and placement of your gpu. Not having your card sticking up perpendicular to your mobo would free up a ton of space, and you could mount it more securely with some kind of bracket to avoid stress on your pci-e slot.

6. I mean it shouldn't be a big deal what sized hdd you use or using an ssd if you mount it in a way the it is secure and not getting jolted when you set the case down. This isn't a traditional laptop where you will be walking around using it or dropping it off a table while the hdd is spinning. Some laptops have drives that can sense a fall and freeze the disc to prevent damage, but in your case if this thing drops from a significant height while its open and being used that's the last thing you would be worried about breaking. SSD's do run a tad bit cooler and of course they waste HDDs in read/write and boot times, I personally won't be buying/building a desktop or a laptop for myself or anyone I do a build for without a system SSD.

7-8. One way is to cut a piece of acrylic the size of your fan/vent holes with mounting tabs that bolt onto your case with some type of gasket material between the case and the acrylic to make a seal, it would be kind of time consuming to take them on and off, but they would be used in transport/storage so it wouldn't be the hugest deal. Another way would be to cast silicone "caps" that press into the holes by pressure (and key notches cut out to help them seat properly and lock in). It would be kind of cool, but not that easily to do and the mix is quite expensive. Ugly options would be trash bagging it or duct tapping across the holes well.

9. I mean I'm sure its possible for you to go smaller, but it just adds to how hard it is and time consuming it will be, its already going to be enough of a challenge.

10. I wouldn't even go there, if the point of this is to have a desktop experience then putting in and old laptop screen with a crappy resolution and color wouldn't be counter productive, plus it would be a pain getting it to connect to the pc itself as well as to power, also a lot of the screens use the chassis of the laptop to aid in the cooling so if you are just resting it against insulated plastic that isn't going to help.

As for your pics that cpu cooler looks so massive, I'd definitely recommend going with the corsair hydro over that, those big coolers work well because of the huge surface area for airflow, and in this case, no pun intended, the airflow is going to be tough anyway. Do you plan on sli or x-fire or something? A single gpu should be more than enough if its a good one so you really don't next the extra pci-e slots.

Not sure if you have looked at this route, but depending on your games and your monitor's resolution it *might* be possible to use amd's A10 apu. If you are gaming at 720p, which with that size of a monitor is a real likelihood, the A10 can pull decent frame rates in a lot of games depending on the settings. If you go this route then boom there goes your discrete graphics. You could use a FM2 mini itx board. You could throw in 16GB of ram (High speed for apu performance), a pico psu that is like a laptop power cord, and a ssd. In theory it would be a sick little computer that games and Photoshops great all while being smaller than a textbook.

^^^ I've looked into doing this build like 4 times and have almost pulled the trigger, but haven't managed to do it yet.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129185&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-_-pla-_-Computer+Cases-_-N82E16811129185&gclid=CPu66rKbvbgCFepFMgod2QcAkg

These are the kind of dimensions we are talking about with this build 8.7" x 3.1" x 8.4". That includes all your components minus the external power adapter and your monitor of course.
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post #16 of 18
Thread Starter 
I kinda want the option to throw in a second GPU, but primarily I want the extra PCI-E slot for a wireless adapter. If I decide to downscale this even further I definitely will use the mini-itx board.

Someone also mentioned for me to daisy chain the components and ground them in some manor to prevent shock damage. Also, the paint was recommended to me. I will keep those in mind, but I am currently looking into something more creative. I'm kinda stuck on the idea of lining foam along the inside of the case and creating an aluminum case to hold the components, so if this thing falls the shock damage will be minimized. I probably couldn't get the foam more than half an inch thick, but that would still block a lot of fall damage.

You think that an h60 would work? I've setup that a few times in my friend's setups, so I know they work pretty well. I'm just concerned about the fall damage. I wanna know how much of a beating the hydro coolers can take if they break, and if I am looking at my total system getting friend if it does.

Thank you for that amazon link and the tip about not using screws. I will be using this, or at least a similar game smile.gif

As for the venting, yeah I was thinking about just running more fans up there, I mean the PSU would power the with minimal issues. I'll take apart a spare monitor and I will see how it vents so I can see what and where I need the fans.

I might not use plexy glass, if I wanted to strip out some speakers and a monitor and combine them in the lid what would you use instead of some custom cut plexy?

I'm still going through the idea of hydro cooling the CPU. Maybe even setup a similar thing with the GPU.

I saw that doing some research, they're super cheap to get too. I will definitely be getting that. I too was also worried about the stress on the Mobo, this would also help minimize fall damage.

I'll be using laptop HDD's and a SSD after awhile in this build. Any additional information you have about this fall stuff would be neat for me to have, if it has to do with the orientation of them then I will need to plan accordingly when mapping this out. As for the falling thing, the case is really quite durable. I want to see if I can make this thing fall resistant, why not?

The laptop screen was primarily a space saving measure, I don't actually think I could get it to work without an immense amount of work into converting it into something that can work with a standard mobo.

"One way is to cut a piece of acrylic the size of your fan/vent holes with mounting tabs that bolt onto your case with some type of gasket material between the case and the acrylic to make a seal" I had this EXACT same idea, I was considering adding some sort of latching onto it too, so all I gotta do is unlatch it in order to break to seal. Can you link me to some of that mix?

It did not occur to me how small this screen is going to need to be in order to fit into the lid, and if I go smaller I will be looking into a >18' monitor and that's not even worth the effort. So I think I will stick to this size smile.gif

I am shooting for 60 fps in games, dun wan an APU, and future proofing this case (I want to be able to gut it and re-apply everything) The APU thing is really the difference between what I am trying to build, and what a laptop is. If I could settle on an APU I could just find a laptop compatible with that APU.

16gb of RAM is a definite for me, I use it all smile.gif. I dunno if the apu will be worth it if I stick with the GPU route. I do think I will go modular with the PSU I get though.
Edited by Paladiex - 7/20/13 at 7:54am
post #17 of 18
Here's some stuff that looks pretty good, I haven't used this brand in particular, but I think it would work really well.

http://www.alumilite.com/ProdDetail.cfm?Category=Silicone%20Rubber&Name=Alumilite's%20High%20Strength%203

The video embedded on the page is actually a really good tutorial on mold making. The stuff isn't cheap so its all about making sure you don't use more then you need to.

As for dual gpu's I really don't think that would be necessary. Most 18 inch and under monitors are running at 720p and while I'm sure you could get higher res one, but it would probably be a lot more expensive. For your build specifically I think a single more powerful gpu would be better, it would give your more space, run cooler, and you wouldn't need an as robust power supply. Most mid range cards won't have any problem playing games at high settings on a 720p monitor.

I've installed a few H60s and from what I can tell they are quite resilient, if you mount it securely and keep your lines from getting knocked around I don't think you would have a problem. I mean if it's something that you are going to worry about you might be better of just using an air cooler with a blower fan that lets you direct the heat out.
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post #18 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PurdueBoy View Post

Here's some stuff that looks pretty good, I haven't used this brand in particular, but I think it would work really well.

http://www.alumilite.com/ProdDetail.cfm?Category=Silicone%20Rubber&Name=Alumilite's%20High%20Strength%203

The video embedded on the page is actually a really good tutorial on mold making. The stuff isn't cheap so its all about making sure you don't use more then you need to.

As for dual gpu's I really don't think that would be necessary. Most 18 inch and under monitors are running at 720p and while I'm sure you could get higher res one, but it would probably be a lot more expensive. For your build specifically I think a single more powerful gpu would be better, it would give your more space, run cooler, and you wouldn't need an as robust power supply. Most mid range cards won't have any problem playing games at high settings on a 720p monitor.

I've installed a few H60s and from what I can tell they are quite resilient, if you mount it securely and keep your lines from getting knocked around I don't think you would have a problem. I mean if it's something that you are going to worry about you might be better of just using an air cooler with a blower fan that lets you direct the heat out.

I'm actually looking for 19 inch or larger, but im not quite sure what will fit yet. I'd prefer HD but i'd settle at 720p. As for the the H60, I'm gonna be moving this thing around and frequently so it's gonna be shaking around on the inside.

Having the ability to use dual GPU's is really just how I want to design this, I want to see if I can make this thing exactly like a standard PC. If I need to, only making room for one GPU won't be a big deal.
Edited by Paladiex - 7/20/13 at 7:23pm
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