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Phase change vs LN2 for extreme OCing, benching, and such

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
Hello! I have been tempted recently to build the DIY phase changer detailed over at the Kingpin forums, but at the cost, between $50 and $250 for parts, and the maintenance (well, that depends on how well you build it, and how much time you put into the design), I have been having second thoughts. For pure thermal performance, would I be better off with a phase changer, which can easily do sub-zero, including the DIY one, or something like a decent LN2 setup, which, in terms of maintenance, is the most demanding out of all choices, it seems.

Thanks for any input you can provide smile.gif
Folder Rodriguez
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Folder Rodriguez
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post #2 of 6
phase ..eh..usually doesn't get as cold as DICE, even..
LN2 is best; you just have to insulate and mount your pot.
like..my board is erasered up right now..running water biggrin.gif
If I want to change chips..I'll peel back just enough on the lever side to get the chip out;leaving 3/4 of the eraser there.
 
Thuban Powah!
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Thuban Powah!
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post #3 of 6
If you think you can build a phase unit for $50-250 you aren't reading something right.
If you want short term just to bench, buy a nice Ln2 pot.
post #4 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoL View Post

If you think you can build a phase unit for $50-250 you aren't reading something right.
If you want short term just to bench, buy a nice Ln2 pot.

Adam, is 100% right. The only time to go phase or cascade is when your going to be benching many different chips over time or if you want a single stage phase unit. Cascade is for the big time benchers and used only for benching runs.

The reason why so few people build phase and cascade units anymore is because the average Joe has a hard time understanding the out of pocket cost that the builder has to pay.

I took a quick swag from a recent single stage estimate I did and this is what i paid in parts. Granted all the parts were brand new but you shouldn't use parts which have been used anyway.

Compressor 300.00 (with electrical and shipping)
Condenser: 50.00 (If you have a solid connection which you wouldn't have as someone doing a 1 time build)
Evap: 50.00
Suction line: 35.00 (includes shipping)
hold down 65.00
insulation 20.00 (Armaflex and 1/4 inch tubing)
Sleeve: 20.00 (Cable Organizer)
Copper Tube: 25.00 (You will need to buy a roll regardless if you will use it all or not)
Captube: 25.00 (10 feet of .042)
Brazing rods: 7 @ $2 = 14.00 (You will need to hunt this down on ebay because you normally need to buy a pack of 25 to 50 and it will run you 70.00)
Refrigerant: r507: 20.00 (hunt this down on ebay and find someone selling a partially full tank. New it will cost you anywhere between 175 and 250)

We also haven't discussed pressure testing and equipment but your not going to want me to price out frown.gif
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post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sdumper View Post

Adam, is 100% right. The only time to go phase or cascade is when your going to be benching many different chips over time or if you want a single stage phase unit. Cascade is for the big time benchers and used only for benching runs.

The reason why so few people build phase and cascade units anymore is because the average Joe has a hard time understanding the out of pocket cost that the builder has to pay.

I took a quick swag from a recent single stage estimate I did and this is what i paid in parts. Granted all the parts were brand new but you shouldn't use parts which have been used anyway.

Compressor 300.00 (with electrical and shipping)
Condenser: 50.00 (If you have a solid connection which you wouldn't have as someone doing a 1 time build)
Evap: 50.00
Suction line: 35.00 (includes shipping)
hold down 65.00
insulation 20.00 (Armaflex and 1/4 inch tubing)
Sleeve: 20.00 (Cable Organizer)
Copper Tube: 25.00 (You will need to buy a roll regardless if you will use it all or not)
Captube: 25.00 (10 feet of .042)
Brazing rods: 7 @ $2 = 14.00 (You will need to hunt this down on ebay because you normally need to buy a pack of 25 to 50 and it will run you 70.00)
Refrigerant: r507: 20.00 (hunt this down on ebay and find someone selling a partially full tank. New it will cost you anywhere between 175 and 250)

We also haven't discussed pressure testing and equipment but your not going to want me to price out frown.gif

I was going by this guide.

http://kingpincooling.com/forum/showthread.php?t=490
Folder Rodriguez
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Swiftech MCP355 w/ Petra's Mod Top Undecided radiator config 12mm OD push fittings, and E22 12mm acrylic tubing Slackware 64-bit 
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Arch Linux 64-bit Asus 24" 1920x1080 LED Rosewill 9000 w/ MX Blues Seasonic X650 
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Scratch build test bench Logitech G600 black Xtrac Ripper XXL 2x Corsair AF 140mm quiet edition case fans 
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**Possibly used** HifiMan HE-500 headphones **USED** Schiit Lyr headphone amp Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC EK Nickel CSQ 680+ Waterblock 
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Folder Rodriguez
(21 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Corsair Force 3 120GB SSD Seagate SV35.5 2TB 64MB cache 7200 RPM HDD LG blu-ray R/W Heatkiller CU 3.0 Nickel/Black 115X 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Swiftech MCP355 w/ Petra's Mod Top Undecided radiator config 12mm OD push fittings, and E22 12mm acrylic tubing Slackware 64-bit 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Arch Linux 64-bit Asus 24" 1920x1080 LED Rosewill 9000 w/ MX Blues Seasonic X650 
CaseMouseMouse PadOther
Scratch build test bench Logitech G600 black Xtrac Ripper XXL 2x Corsair AF 140mm quiet edition case fans 
Other
Promilatech PK-1 
AudioAudioAudioOther
**Possibly used** HifiMan HE-500 headphones **USED** Schiit Lyr headphone amp Jolida Glass FX Tube DAC EK Nickel CSQ 680+ Waterblock 
OtherOtherOther
2x Aplhacool NexXxos UT60 360mm full copper rad... 6x Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1450 RPM fans 10 meters of 12mm OD nickel plated copper pipe,... 
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post #6 of 6
Oh well that's a water chiller. Huge difference, and the insulation for those can be a huge pain. Honestly, I'd recommend just getting a pot and going DICE or LN2, run water 24/7.thumb.gif
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