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[Official] EVGA Classified & K|NGP|N Owner's Club - Page 1028

post #10271 of 21380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradaz85 View Post

I thought the new Bios had an adequate increased Voltage? If not then where and how do I increase it? Thanks.

the classy overvoltage tool on the front page. With a custom bios and these cards I only use the software controller or the evbot to control the voltage. i don't use precision x or ab.
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post #10272 of 21380
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradaz85 View Post

I thought the new Bios had an adequate increased Voltage? If not then where and how do I increase it? Thanks.


all in the OP http://www.overclock.net/attachments/21064

780 classy =1.5V
780Ti classy =1.65v

BE CAREFUL!!!
post #10273 of 21380
Quote:
Originally Posted by strong island 1 View Post

the classy overvoltage tool on the front page. With a custom bios and these cards I only use the software controller or the evbot to control the voltage. i don't use precision x or ab.

Same. I use the Classified Voltage Tuner Controller tool with skyn3t's BIOS. I don't use AB or Precision X.
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post #10274 of 21380
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickolp View Post

all in the OP http://www.overclock.net/attachments/21064

780 classy =1.5V
780Ti classy =1.65v

BE CAREFUL!!!
Cheers dude! Which slider am I changing to 1.65v? There is:
NVVDD @ 0.88750V
FBVDD @ 1.60v
PEXVDD @ 1.050v

PWM Freq. @ 260Hz.

So the Rev. 2 Skyn3t Bios I switched to today, only unlocked the Voltage for me, and thats why I'm using another tool to change voltage?
post #10275 of 21380
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradaz85 View Post

Cheers dude! Which slider am I changing to 1.65v? There is:
NVVDD @ 0.88750V
FBVDD @ 1.60v
PEXVDD @ 1.050v

PWM Freq. @ 260Hz.

So the Rev. 2 Skyn3t Bios I switched to today, only unlocked the Voltage for me, and thats why I'm using another tool to change voltage?

You can change FBVDD to 1.65. I think nickolp was referring to the maximums for NVVDD or core voltage. Those maximums will kill your card on air and under water in given a little bit of time.

Here are the definitions and 24/7 max voltages I feel fine recommending

NVVDD: core voltage - 1.25 on air, 1.3 for water on 24/7 is how high I would go
FBVDD: memory voltage - 1.65-.67 on air, 1.7 or so for water
PEXVDD: Bus voltage - one tick is all you will need, most don't need it, so try it last if your stuck
PWM: frequency of power delivery, higher is more stable. I would go around 400 with this. Higher doesn't really help unless your at benchmark voltages and clockspeeds.

EDIT: the bios raises the power target so you can take advantage of the tool to raise voltage. That is the main purpose of the bios. It does a little bit more, but the reason everyone has it is for the power target increases.
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post #10276 of 21380
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradaz85 View Post

Cheers dude! Which slider am I changing to 1.65v? There is:
NVVDD @ 0.88750V
FBVDD @ 1.60v
PEXVDD @ 1.050v

PWM Freq. @ 260Hz.

So the Rev. 2 Skyn3t Bios I switched to today, only unlocked the Voltage for me, and thats why I'm using another tool to change voltage?

Dont put 1.65v to your card you will kill it. Do some research and reading before you end up messin something up. Also you need a dmm(digital multimeter) to properly read voltages.
post #10277 of 21380
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradaz85 View Post

Cheers dude! Which slider am I changing to 1.65v? There is:
NVVDD @ 0.88750V
FBVDD @ 1.60v
PEXVDD @ 1.050v

PWM Freq. @ 260Hz.

So the Rev. 2 Skyn3t Bios I switched to today, only unlocked the Voltage for me, and thats why I'm using another tool to change voltage?

the skyn3t BIOS did not unlock voltage. It increased the power target and got rid of boost.

NVVDD is core voltage.
FBVDD is memory voltage
PEXVDD is PCI-E voltage, and you don't really need to touch it unless you are using extreme cooling.

PWM Frequency will allow for more stable voltage and I think it also acts like LLC in a way, i.e. higher PWM frequency will mean more voltage at load.

Depending on your cooling be very careful. If you're on air you want to stay at or below 1.25v, or 1.35v for very quick bench runs.

You need to keep an eye on core and VRM temps. The higher you go on voltage the lower you need to keep core temp. At stock volts 80C core is OK. VRM temps are probably OK up to about 80C, but lower is better.
Edited by coelacanth - 3/11/14 at 11:19am
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post #10278 of 21380
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deaf Jam View Post

You can change FBVDD to 1.65. I think nickolp was referring to the maximums for NVVDD or core voltage. Those maximums will kill your card on air and under water in given a little bit of time.

Here are the definitions and 24/7 max voltages I feel fine recommending

NVVDD: core voltage - 1.25 on air, 1.3 for water on 24/7 is how high I would go
FBVDD: memory voltage - 1.65-.67 on air, 1.7 or so for water
PEXVDD: Bus voltage - one tick is all you will need, most don't need it, so try it last if your stuck
PWM: frequency of power delivery, higher is more stable. I would go around 400 with this. Higher doesn't really help unless your at benchmark voltages and clockspeeds.

EDIT: the bios raises the power target so you can take advantage of the tool to raise voltage. That is the main purpose of the bios. It does a little bit more, but the reason everyone has it is for the power target increases.
Legend! I will see how I get on with them, thanks muchly
post #10279 of 21380
Quote:
Originally Posted by coelacanth View Post

the skyn3t BIOS did not unlock voltage. It increased the power target and got rid of boost.

NVVDD is core voltage.
FBVDD is memory voltage
PEXVDD is PCI-E voltage, and you don't really need to touch it unless you are using extreme cooling.

PWM Frequency will allow for more stable voltage and I think it also acts like LLC in a way, i.e. higher PWM frequency will mean more voltage at load.

Depending on your cooling be very careful. If you're on air you want to stay at 1.25v, or 1.35v for very quick bench runs.
Ahh, I actually flashed to the one WITH Boost... Should I flash to the one without Boost then? There was two Bios's in the Rar so I went for the second.
post #10280 of 21380
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deaf Jam View Post

Well those calculators are wrong or you used them incorrectly. Your PSU tripping is proof. Classified don't pull like regular cards, especially with revised bios. The reason you are getting the shutdown issue on the LN2 side is because you are using a revised bios that allows for greater power usage. It has nothing to do with what side the switch is flipped to. That only tells the card what code to execute from the bios set. You will get shutdowns unless you lower your power target or use the bios that regulates it more.

The 780 Classy is recommended to be used with a 42 A minimum 12 volts rail. That is 504 watts on the 12 volts rail. Your PSU supplies only 38 A on that rail, or 456 watts. So just by the numbers that both manufacturers provide, you are over well over it.

I have pulled with my TiC nearly 1000 watts from the wall. At my daily voltages, I pull over 700. These cards are hungry and your running well above stock specifications to begin with, then you add in overclocking. Replace that PSU before it kills everything when it fails and the protections fail with it. The PSU is the heart of your system, it is not something to skimp on.

psu_zps702c3be3.png


I'm pretty sure I didn't "use it wrong". Either way, like I said, I'm getting a new one.
Edited by gatesmarch - 3/11/14 at 11:30am
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