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post #20241 of 21379
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarlet-Tech View Post

I purchased 24 fittings and 10 lengths of their PETG tube (36" each) and the tubing was rather disgusting honestly... it had ripples and extrusion marks as well as lines on the side from.the protective coating.

The tube was thin as well.

The fittings would just randomly start dripping after days, weeks or months with absolutely no disturbance. I would just look in and a puddle would be forming on a radiator or a gpu (thank every deity in this world for non conductive fluids).

I bought EK fittings, and not one single leak to date. Well, i did pull the tube out while adjust my gpu's once, but no leaks at random.. was totally my fault and was only at a radiator.

Well looks like am about to drop some more coin on some Primochill fittings and ship these back to Performance. Thank you.
post #20242 of 21379
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimir View Post

1500 is not average for the 980Ti, imo. If you can get that stable for daily, you should be happy.
Voltage won't help you unless you drop your temp below 20°c.

Well according to the youtuber, Jayz2cents, whom has tested quite a few different SKU's, he found on average most would do somewhere around 1500mhz. To clarify, one of my GPU's will hit 1500 stable but the other needs much more voltage. And therefore I cant get 1500 stable for daily hence why I am unhappy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnd0e View Post



Thats what mine looks like.

What confuses me is that when i try to increase the core voltage it doesnt show in GPU-Z, but if i decrease voltage it does?

and yea i really need a DMM and probe it kit. Probably pick one up this week.


The only place that displays voltage accurately is precision x I believe (or using a multi meter of course). There was also a post about getting afterburner to do so as well but I cant confirm that myself.
post #20243 of 21379
PX is NOT accurate. I see huge differences between PX and my DMM. That being said, don't expect a huge Mhz bump by pushing things to 1.3v. For me there is no difference between 1.26v and 1.3v other than more heat. YMMV obviously. If you want to know your voltage, get the EVGA ProbeIt and a DMM.
    
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post #20244 of 21379
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawnf77 View Post

Finally got the Loop done!! Now get to start overclocking later and see where this thing really lands. So far the temps haven't been over 48 Degrees while gaming. That's Cpu and Gpu max temps. As for the lights I have 1 more Darkside Uv led strip coming from Mnpctech.

That's a purdy loop!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ITAngel View Post

After so much debate if I should or not go water cooling I decided to do it all including putting the classified card under water. It looks good, and it perform amazing temps were avg on 19C-21C normal use. Playing battlefield 4 avg temps 34C with room temp at 70F.


Wow... that is phenomenal. How much rad are you using? Clocks at that temp?
    
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post #20245 of 21379
Quote:
Originally Posted by paskowitz View Post

That's a purdy loop!
Wow... that is phenomenal. How much rad are you using? Clocks at that temp?

Hi there, Thanks!, I will double check been playing a lot with the bios. Should had been at 4.2Ghz OC with turbo to 4.4Ghz if i recall during my temp reading. I just moved it back to 4.5Ghz last night but have not run any test since I was sick. Let me record some of the test and I will get back to your question tonight. My test settings will be 4.5Ghz @ 1.267v I am debating running Heaven to see a true bench test on the entire loop and taking a desktop snap shot of all the readings. wink.gif

Currently I have two 240mm rads one on the front and one on top. Path is set from Res -> to Pump -> to Front Rad -> to GPU -> to CPU -> back to Res. I know this is not needed but my idea was not only to keep tubing shorter and clean but also to provide the GPU with much cooler temps first and then the CPU let all that hot air out on top while the front rad providing cooler internal air to the case. At least that was my logical thinking there. biggrin.gif
Edited by ITAngel - 3/2/16 at 3:07pm
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post #20246 of 21379
Quote:
Originally Posted by ITAngel View Post

Hi there, Thanks!, I will double check been playing a lot with the bios. Should had been at 4.2Ghz OC with turbo to 4.4Ghz if i recall during my temp reading. I just moved it back to 4.5Ghz last night but have not run any test since I was sick. Let me record some of the test and I will get back to your question tonight. My test settings will be 4.5Ghz @ 1.267v I am debating running Heaven to see a true bench test on the entire loop and taking a desktop snap shot of all the readings. wink.gif

Currently I have two 240mm rads one on the front and one on top. Path is set from Res -> to Pump -> to Front Rad -> to GPU -> to CPU -> back to Res. I know this is needed but my idea was not only to keep tubing shorter and clean but also to provide the GPU with much cooler temps first and then the CPU let all that hot air out on top while the front rad providing cooler internal air to the case. At least that was my logical thinking there. biggrin.gif

I don't think loop order matters all that much for temps as the water distributes the heat evenly throughout. I am sure after a certain point, keeping length in check has some effect on resistance. Same with bends.

For clocks, I meant GPU clocks BTW.
    
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post #20247 of 21379
Quote:
Originally Posted by paskowitz View Post

PX is NOT accurate. I see huge differences between PX and my DMM. That being said, don't expect a huge Mhz bump by pushing things to 1.3v. For me there is no difference between 1.26v and 1.3v other than more heat. YMMV obviously. If you want to know your voltage, get the EVGA ProbeIt and a DMM.

Yeah I'm very familiar with maxwells non existent voltage scalling unless your sub ambient. I experienced the same as you but with my previous 970's I had in sli. I was able to get 1580/8100@1.25v on water, any amount of voltage after that added nothing noteable aside from heat.

Anyways Picking up a probe it adapter from evga and ordering a nice fluke multimeter tonight.
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post #20248 of 21379
Quote:
Originally Posted by paskowitz View Post

I don't think loop order matters all that much for temps as the water distributes the heat evenly throughout. I am sure after a certain point, keeping length in check has some effect on resistance. Same with bends.

For clocks, I meant GPU clocks BTW.

Oh yea I know sorry I forgot to type not needed. hahaha, good catch. thumb.gif
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post #20249 of 21379
Quote:
Originally Posted by cookiesowns View Post

the KPE is a great card because it means you don't have to run a full block. I use a EK supremacy gpu only block in SLI, and runs great. VRM temps stay well below 60C with minimal airflow. If I had a fan on it during benching it doesn't go higher than 50C. This is with the stock cold plate on it.

The Classy's have that also. Not as blingy but it's there.

SS
post #20250 of 21379
Quote:
Originally Posted by D3LTA9 View Post

Well according to the youtuber, Jayz2cents, whom has tested quite a few different SKU's, he found on average most would do somewhere around 1500mhz. To clarify, one of my GPU's will hit 1500 stable but the other needs much more voltage. And therefore I cant get 1500 stable for daily hence why I am unhappy.
The only place that displays voltage accurately is precision x I believe (or using a multi meter of course). There was also a post about getting afterburner to do so as well but I cant confirm that myself.

You can in AB but you need the oem2 file to put in the AB root folder. I might be able to post it tonight unless I redo my loop swap my G1 - Classy SLI for a twin Classy SLI.

SS
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