Originally Posted by somebadlemonade
that depends on how deep the scratches and scuffs are, but you likely won't get an exact match for the anodized color unless it's clear, and even that might be a bit off unless you re-do the whole case
from my understanding if you're going to get it powder coated, you don't need to strip the anodized finish, what exactly are you trying to do with the case, re-anodize, powder coat, or paint?
if you want to re-anodize the case, maybe just some 600 grit paper over the scratches they they are smooth, but if they are really deep and distorted the metal, you aren't really going to be able to smooth them out without knowing how to do metal work, which i kind of get the feeling you don't or you wouldn't be asking about this. . . and if you do get re-anodized, the place that does that will strip the old anodized before they anodize the case, and you might want to either get a nice powder coating of flat clear, or paint it with matte/flat clear just so you don't have to go through this again
if you want to powder coat it, you usually don't have to worry too much about scuffs unless they are rough or of a different texture than the other finish, but you might want to ask the place you are getting it powder coated at as they will tell you in more detail how you should prep the case for powder coating
if you're going to get it painted, some 600 grit over the rough areas, and the prime they used can go right over the anodized coating usually, but ask the place if that's a good idea since not all products react the same way to anodized aluminum
if you're planning on painting it yourself, you can soak the pieces in caustic soda(aka lye) and the anodized coating comes right off, but i don't really recommend doing this yourself unless you have experience working with dangerous chemicals, just phone up a place that does anodizing and they'll strip it for you, and if you have the professional painting equipment you have to find a decent set of products from aluminum primer to the finish coat, again i think if you had this stuff you wouldn't be asking, but if you're going the rattle can route, look for a product line from the same manufacture so you can completely avoid bad reactions, and find one that has a self-etching primer and work your way though all the prep work after you get it back from the anodizers, and then prime and paint as the directions state on the can