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New Seasonic 1250W PS Raising Mobo Temps

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
I just purchased and installed …

- Seasonic SS-1250XM (X-Series ATX, 1250W) Power Supply
* replaced Corsair TX850 Power Supply

- Lian Li [6 Switch] HDD Power Controller (BZ-H06B)

- Lian Li EX-23NB (3x) HDD Module w/ FAN

The Problem is my Temperature profiles have gone up considerably in some areas especially my motherboard. There also seem to be greater swings in my CPU Temps. Im looking for any recommendations on how to lower my temps and temp swings without breaking the bank.

TIA

JJ2DAY


TEMP PROFILE
* Used ASUS Probe2 & Everest to measure temps

CPU
Before: 45-55C
Now: 36-60C

MOBO
Before: 45-55C
Now: 50-60+C

GRFX
No Change: Fan on Auto-75C, Fan on Manual 100%- 65C

HDD
No Change: Around 40C

NOTE: Temps are with only 1 out of 6 HDD energized.


Initially I wanted to build a NAS server but due to costs I decided to buy an additional HDD rack module, a HDD controller module, and a “Beefy” PS that could handle the task without raising my temps too much.

With the HDD Controller Module I can energize additional HDD’s as needed when I want to make backups or access data drives.

The original power supply, Corsair TX850 couldn’t handle the 3.3Ghz CPU overclock and additional drives beyond 3.

The Seasonic 1250W PS is physically larger and as a result I cannot use my Top 90mm case Fan.

The fans currently operating in my system are …

FAN CONFIGURATION

FRONT
1x 80mm HDD Rack Module #1
1x 80mm HDD Rack Module #2

INSIDE
2x 120mm (1300rpm) Noctua NH-U12P Push/Pull CPU Cooler
1x 80mm (Adjustable RPM) EVGA 9800GT Graphics Card Fan

BACK
1x 90mm (1300rpm) Noctua Fan
1x 90mm (1300rpm) Other Fan

TOP
1x 90mm Noctua (1300rpm) *unsable with Seasonic 1250 PS

[For actual layouts see the diagrams below for Front & Back panel configurations]


MOST LIKELY PROBLEM

I noticed that disengaging fans connected to the mobo helped reduce the mobo temp. Currently I only have the Noctua CPU Cooler Fans and the 2x 90mm back panel fans connected to the mobo. I also noticed that the Seasonic 1250W PS Fan barely moves so its not sucking air off the mobo and out of the case like the old Corsair TX850 was doing. The Seasonic was probably designed specifically for a bottom mounted case. My guess this is the main culprit. Its acting like a thermal block of sorts. Its adding heat but not sucking out surrounding hot air.

7. Tricks to Better/Quieter Air Flow, CFM and CPU Temps
http://www.overclock.net/t/565007/guide-air-cooling-questions-answered-here-updated-8-16-10

After reading this post it looks like bottom to top air flow is critical.


OPTIONS

I figure these are my options …

1. Buy another PS. Find one whose fan actually moves some air out of the case.
2. Buy a new CASE. Go with a Full Tower with a bottom PS mount, big case fans, and ample space to work with.
3. Buy Lian Li 5.25" Triple 40mm Extreme Bay Cooler Exhaust or Intake. See if more air movement from the front to the back changes anything.
NOTE: I stuck a house fan on full blast in front of my case and it did NOTHING.
4. Go to the local package store and buy some colt 45 malt liquor and cry in my beer.



COMPUTER SPECS

CPU - Intel Core i7 920 (2.67 Ghz) [Stepping C0]
* Summer (No OC - 1.8Ghz+Speedstep, Vcore=1.06)
* Winter (OC - 3.3Ghz, No Speedstep, Vcore=1.2)

RAM - Crucial 12GB
(3x4GB 1333Mhz) [Ballistix DDR3]
* Summer (1066Mhz)
* Winter (1333Mhz)

MOBO - ASUS P6T Deluxe
(LGA 1366, X58/ICH10R Chipset)

CPU COOLER - Noctua NH-U12P
Fans > 120mm (2 x 1300rpm) 54.36CFM/Fan , Copper, aluminum

GRAPHICS - Nvidia 9800GT
EVGA 512-P3-N975-AR GeForce 9800 GT 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCIe 2.0 x16
Fan 1x > “On Auto” but adjustable thru Nvidia Control Panel

“New” POWER SUPPLY - Seasonic SS-1250XM (X-Series ATX, 1250W)

“Old” POWER SUPPLY - Corsair TX850 (850W)

CASE - Lian Li PC-6077B (Black Aluminum ATX Mid Tower Case)
9 x 5.25” Bays
Fans> 2 Rear 90mm (Noctua 1300rpm & Other 1300rpm)
1 Top Mounted 90mm Noctua 1300rpm

PCI CARD - M-audio Delta1010LT Audio Card

HDD’s: (order as currently mounted)

Fan> 1x 80mm Fan in front of HDD’s
- SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3EG HD203WI 2TB 5400rmp 32MB 3.0Gb/s 3.5"
- Seagate Barracuda ST2000DM001 2TB 7200rpm 6.0Gb/s 64MB 3.5”
- Seagate ST4000DM000 4TB 7200rpm 64MB 6.0Gb/s 3.5"

Fan> 1x 80mm Fan in front of HDD’s
- Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200rpm6Gb/s 64MB 3.5”
- Seagate Barracuda ST31500341AS 1.5TB 7200rpm 32MB 3.0Gb/s 3.5"
- Western Digital WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200rpm 64MB 6.0Gb/s 3.5"



FRONT BAY CONFIGURATION


************************************************
1 DVD - LiteOn iHAS424
************************************************
2 DVD - LiteOn iHAS424
************************************************
3 Lian Li [6 Switch] HDD Power Controller (BZ-H06B)
************************************************
Lian Li EX-23NB HDD Module w/ FAN
4 Samsung 2TB HDD
Seagate 2TB HDD
5 Seagate 4TB HDD
************************************************
6 EMPTY
************************************************
7 EMPTY
************************************************
LIan Li HDD Module & Power SW/Reset w/ FAN
8 Seagate 1TB HDD
Seagate 1.5TB HDD
9 Western Digital 1TB HDD
************************************************


BACK PANEL CONFIGURATION


************************************************
POWER SUPPLY
Fan (Bottom) 120mm
************************************************

1x PS2 1x 90mm (1300rpm) FAN
3x USB
1x RJ45 1x 90mm (1300rpm) FAN

************************************************
1 EMPTY
************************************************
2 USB 2x Ports
************************************************
3 Nvidia 9800GT - 2x DVI Ports (Using Only 1x)
************************************************
4 EMPTY
************************************************
5 Delta101LT - Midi Port - Audio Outs
************************************************
6 EMPTY
************************************************
7 EMPTY
************************************************
post #2 of 10
unfortunately the seasonic is doing what it's designed to do biggrin.gif a high quality PSU like the seasonic X is designed to remain silent (fan off) when it's not in need of cooling. the TX you had before is likely still spinning its fans even if it didn't need the cooling so it was removing some heat from your case.

your current seasonicX is INSANELY overpowered for your build:D just eyeballing your build i'd say a high quality 500w PSU is already OVERKILL for your rig smile.gif so it's likely the seasonic's fan will never spin up even if you put your system on full blast biggrin.gif

what I would recommend is adding either a Lian Li BZ-502B or the EX-33B to your system to increase the airflow to compensate for the fact the seasonic in your system will never feel the need to spin up its fan biggrin.gif it's far too powerful to ever need to spin its fan. in reality even if you got a seasonicX 650 it will likely rarely if ever spin it's fan since your system simply does not generate enough load to stress a PSU of that quality. biggrin.gif
post #3 of 10
Why in the world did you buy a 1250 watts PSU?

And as said above the fan never starts to spin

Welcome to OCN by the way
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Seravee
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post #4 of 10
Firstly welcome to OCN thumb.gif

Thanks for the very nice explanation and description of your problem and system.

As already said you have much more PSU than you need but that is not really the problem. Case airflow is the problem.

I suggest:
* Install Lian Li Triple 5.25" Bay 120mm Fan Module - Black (BZ-502B) as pysclum already suggested You could experiment by removing 3x 5.25" covers and wedging a 120mm fan in with some foam, tape, zip-ties to see the improvement.
* Remove the very restrictive grills from the back 90mm fan vents. Done carefully you will have perfect open circle vents when done.
* For better front to back airflow try moving your Delta101LT - Midi Port - Audio Outs from PCI 5 to PCI 1 and take the slot covers off of all empty PCI slots.

Solving this is not really very hard but usually requires some experimenting to see what works best. We can be sure that an additional 120mm front intake and less restrictive rear vents will improvle airflow. PCI slot covers may or may not flow air out the back.. sometimes air is drawn in. wink.gif

I use a cheap indoor/outdoor wired remote or terrarium digital thermometer to monitor air temps different places inside of case. Twist a piece of stiff insulated wire into the last 8" of sensor leadso you can bend it to position sensor where you want it... like an inch in front of your cooler.. to see what the air temp going into CPU / GPU cooler is compared to room temp. The closer it is to room temp the better.. Shouldn't be more than about a few degrees, 5c maximum.
Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, R1.1.1.M2a
post #5 of 10
put a floor fan. With a dust filter if none.

EDIT : Probably wont be possible with a 1250 PSU due to size.

Anyway, put some sort of airflow over the motherboard.
Brake Those Bones
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post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thanks to everyones quick reply, input, and welcomes. I appreciate it! :-]


OuterVision PS Calculator
http://www.extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine

1 HDD, No OC, CPU=2667Mhz, Vcore=1.056 > POWER REQ: 425W

1HDD, OC, CPU=3333Mhz, Vcore=1.20 > POWER REQ: 480W

6HDD, No OC, CPU=2667Mhz, Vcore=1.056 > POWER REQ: 545W

6HDD, OC, CPU=3333Mhz, Vcore=1.20 > POWER REQ: 600W


ASUS PS Calculator
http://support.asus.com/powersupply.aspx

1HDD > POWER REQ: 700W

6HDD > POWER REQ: 900W


I based my decision to buy a hefty PS for several reasons. Probably the most significant is that my Corsair TX850 wasn’t able to pull its weight being OC’d at 3.33Ghz and handle more than 3 HDD’s connected to the system even though “the numbers” indicate otherwise.

Also my Retro Build …

CPU: P4 3.0 Ghz (Northwood)
COOLER: Thermalright XP-90 Heat Sink w/ 92mm Noctua Fan
MOBO: Intel 865GBF (socket 478)
GRFX: Sapphire HD4650 (AGP 8x)
RAM: 3GB Crucial DDR2 (800Mhz)
PS: Antec TruePower II (550W)
CASE: Lian Li PC7FN


… which has an Antec 550W power supply chokes when I add more than 1 HDD to the system. If I run the numbers it should easily handle at least 2 HDD’s.

My thoughts are that somewhere in an expensive restaurant like “Red Lobster” some PS Mfg reps are LTAO and having extra Margaritas and Sangria while Im at home scratching my head wondering why I cant add more hardware to my system.

I guess MARKETING does NOT = REALITY !

Im still trying to figure out Y a 1TB drive does not equal a Trillion Bytes.

That’s why I opted for the “Big Cahuna” “Whose Your Daddy?” “Look How Big It IS!” Power Supply.
I wanted some headroom.

Of course now I have a new set of challenges.

YOUR SUGGESTIONS
1. Buy Lian Li Triple 5.25" Bay 120mm Fan Module - Black (BZ-502B)
2. Remove 90mm Back Fan Grills
3. Move Audio Card (Delta1010LT) to Top PCI Slot. Make more room at bottom of case.
4. Remove PCI Slot Covers.
5. Measure Temps with Digital Thermometer.
6. Floor Fan.
7. Motherboard Fan.

I like the idea of getting a large mounted front fan to do some heavy air movement. The BZ-502B is a 3-Bay Fan. I would have to sacrifice one of my DVD drives to make room for it. :-[

I like dual DVD drives to do quick copying from drive to drive. I would lose that capability.

I think all your other suggestions regarding better air flow and removing obstructions are all good.

The more I think about things, the more Im thinking about just buying a larger case to provide the environment suitable for creating the air flow dynamics needed to keep components at nominal values.

It took me hours to figure how to route cables in such limited space. Changing stuff out in the future would be arduous.


MY INCLINATIONS

1. Buy Full Tower Case with Big Fans and room to work in.

2. Im not sold on the Seasonic 1250W PS yet. I would test it in the Full Tower to see what kind of results I get. A PS that creates Heat but doesn’t spin its fans has me wondering.

3. Look at 40mm NorthBridge Fan to see if that affects my Mobo temps as well as Front Intake Fan.


YOUR RECOMMENDATIONS

- What Full Tower Cases should I look at?
[If you have any favorite Full Tower Lian Li cases let me know]

- Given my setup what Brand and Wattage PS would you recommend?
Are there any High Wattage PS's that have a constant fan speed?


JJ2DAY
post #7 of 10
ok i'm alittle confused... are we talking about the Lian Li PC7FN case? or are we talking about the Lian Li PC-6077B case? why would you need to pull out an ODD? (not sure why you'd want internal ODD in the 1st place, but that's a discussion for another day) but either way...

ok the PC-7FN has 5x5.25 bays and the PC6077B has 7x5.25 bays... why would you need to remove your ODD when you have the EX-33B option?



the EX-33B would be a direct replacement for your EX-23NB so you should still have plenty of 5.25 bays left over for your ODD. is there any particular reason you actually want to keep the 3.5 floppy bay adapter in there?
post #8 of 10
You dont need a 1250 watts for that system its insane overkill

See this video

And its called a PSU not a PS
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Seravee
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post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
WoooooooooooooooooW! You guys weren't kidding! Both my rigs barely push their respective power supply Max Ratings.

Thanks again for everyones feedback. I went to the hardware store and bought a P3 Kill-A-Watt meter to measure wattage.


[Power Usage Results at Bottom]

** Numbers have been rounded off **



RIG #1

LO=Idle HI=Handbrake Video Encoding with CPU’s Maxed

with 850W PSU > LO=20% HI=35%

with 1250W PSU > LO=10% HI=25%


RIG #2

LO=Idle HI=Handbrake Video Encoding with CPU’s Maxed

with 550W PSU > LO=20% HI=35%



The 1250W is a total overkill and them some. PSYCLUM is right. A seasonicX 650 might be sufficient. SHILKA's video from NCIX is great. Ive read postings saying the PSU sweetspot is between 30%-70%, optimum being 50%.


With everyones input and pinned PSU postings Ive read, Im going to return the 1250W PSU and go for something more reasonable.

One "Amazing" thing about the 1250W PSU is that the Idle CPU Temp for RIG #1 is down in the dirt. Ive never seen it that low. The CPU must love clean power. :-]


Im looking at getting;

New Full Tower Case > Lian-Li PC-A70F or something like it
New PSU > One that fits the 30%-70% sweetspot. Which one ???
Eventual Upgrade > Another Graphics card for 3x/4x monitor setup


It took me hours to cram everything into the mid tower case of RIG #1. Having a full tower case like the Lian-Li PC-A70F would allow some freedom to interchange and rewire stuff. I have the Lian-Li PC7FN which is the mid tower version of the Lian-Li PC-A70F and its light and easy to get stuff in and out of.

If you have any recommendations on a "Full Tower" case, PSU's or anything else please pass them on.

PSYCLUM Wrote
... what I would recommend is adding either a Lian Li BZ-502B or the EX-33B to your system to increase the airflow ...

I'll probably will buy the Lian-Li BZ-502B Fan as well. Since I bought the Lian Li EX-23NB HDD (3HDD/2 Bay) Module already. I will save my case (Lian Li PC-6077B) for another build down the road.


JJ2DAY





***************************************
MY POWER USAGE RESULTS
***************************************

LO=Idle HI=Handbrake Video Encoding with CPU’s Maxed


RIG #1: ASUS P6T DELUXE, Core I7 920, w/ Crucial 3x4Gb 1333Mhz RAM, EVGA 9800GT

- 1.6Ghz + Speedstep @ 1066Mhz, 2 HDD
LO- 150W HI- 250W

- 2.67Ghz @ 1333Mhz, 2 HDD
LO- 165W HI- 240W

- 3.33Ghz @ 1333Mhz, 2 HDD
LO- 170W HI- 250W

- 3.33Ghz @ 1333Mhz, 6 HDD
LO- 185W HI- 280W




RIG #2: INTEL D865GBF, Pentium 4 (3Ghz), w/ Crucial 2x1Gb + 2x512Mb 800Mhz RAM, Sapphire HD4650

- 1 HDD
LO-105W HI- 180W

- 2 HDD
LO- 120W HI-180W
post #10 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by JJ2DAY View Post

***************************************
MY POWER USAGE RESULTS
***************************************

LO=Idle HI=Handbrake Video Encoding with CPU’s Maxed


RIG #1: ASUS P6T DELUXE, Core I7 920, w/ Crucial 3x4Gb 1333Mhz RAM, EVGA 9800GT

- 1.6Ghz + Speedstep @ 1066Mhz, 2 HDD
LO- 150W HI- 250W

- 2.67Ghz @ 1333Mhz, 2 HDD
LO- 165W HI- 240W

- 3.33Ghz @ 1333Mhz, 2 HDD
LO- 170W HI- 250W

- 3.33Ghz @ 1333Mhz, 6 HDD
LO- 185W HI- 280W




RIG #2: INTEL D865GBF, Pentium 4 (3Ghz), w/ Crucial 2x1Gb + 2x512Mb 800Mhz RAM, Sapphire HD4650

- 1 HDD
LO-105W HI- 180W

- 2 HDD
LO- 120W HI-180W

our recommendation is based on both the GPU AND CPU being maxed out and with a healthy amount of headroom for safety. if you are only maxing the CPU then it's not an accurate number. typical benchmarking test for power consist of both prime95 AND either heaven or furmark for at least 30min's to reach a stable/accurate number.
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