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Mixing Aluminum and Copper in a Waterloop - Page 3

post #21 of 44
well when I start to notice something with my anodized aluminum res I'll post something about it. So far I havn't seen any difference yet. I keep my eye on it and will continue too though.
post #22 of 44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DigitrevX View Post
well when I start to notice something with my anodized aluminum res I'll post something about it. So far I havn't seen any difference yet. I keep my eye on it and will continue too though.
What are components? Using anti corrosion additive? How long has it been running?
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post #23 of 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post
What are components? Using anti corrosion additive? How long has it been running?

componets are RBX cpu block, 2x120mm Black Ice gt rad, D5 and, XSPC Passive 150mm Reservoir.

I'm using about 21oz. of fuild XP+ and has been running for 4 months.

I've checked my parts recently and have seen no change so far to the naked eye.
post #24 of 44
Oh hey, isnt the bonneville heater core an aluminum part??? I know most rads/heater cores made for cars were aluminum, or at least had aluminum fins for good heat dissapation...
    
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post #25 of 44
I decided to take my loop apart and take some pictures of its status. This is the first time I completely drained it to check it out. The color of the fluid xp was getting a little light so I added a little fresh liquid to it after I was done.

Anodized passive reservoir is pit free and clean just like the day I bought it.
Pics were take while the inside was still a little wet.




The waterblock is interesting. I see no pitting at all. But I do notice a green tint. First thing that comes to mind is algae, but there was a blue residue on my tubes when I emptied it. That blue and orangey color of the copper can make things have a green tint but for the most part if I don't see pitting I'm not worried.


Fluid XP that was in the loop seems pale compaired to fresh fluid xp. I bet I know where the color went. Probably deposited in my tubes and coated inside my RBX block.


And of course the money shot when its all back togeather. Notice the color in the tubes are the same color as looking trough 3 inches of the old fluid. So its obviously darker with newly added fluid xp.

LL
LL
LL
LL
LL
post #26 of 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by hvacgaspiping View Post
Aluminum should NEVER be used in a water flowing circuit, because the electrolytic corrosion that results. `Doesn`t matter what other metals are present, except some of the corrosion deposits from the aluminum will coat other metals. That`s why heat exchangers, pumps, water filters and strainers, condensers, boilers, and cooling towers don`t use aluminum in any of their applications.
have you ever looked at the cooling system of a car?

it's not uncommon to have an aluminum radiator, some have aluminum motors. hell on mine the motor, radiator, filler neck, part of the water pump is all aluminum. there is some steel/iron in there also and it has worked for the last 20 years under more extream conditions then your computer coolnig system gets put under. a lot of it is maintaining the system and keeping tabs on your ph it seems.


and the corrosion is caused more by dissimilar metals in the cooling loop. it works more or less like a battery. if you want to see something interesting grab a dvm put the pos term in your rad filler and touch the fluid just not the metal with it now the neg term ground it out. chances are you will get a few 10th's of a volt
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post #27 of 44
My boss (former mechanic) says antifreezes contain antielectrolytics to help prevent galvanic corrosion.

The million$ question before I build my loop is... Are antifreezes rough on the pumps, tubing, or other components?
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post #28 of 44
The easiest thing to do is not mix aluminum and copper in your loop, there is no reason to do it anyway, if you use anti-freeze use 5-15% the rest distilled water....
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post #29 of 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by DontPassTheFence View Post
Oh hey, isnt the bonneville heater core an aluminum part??? I know most rads/heater cores made for cars were aluminum, or at least had aluminum fins for good heat dissapation...
The heater core out of any American made vehicle in the 70s will be copper/brass. I've been out of the auto parts business for a few years now, but I would guess that still hasn't changed much.

Radiators were swaped out to start using aluminum more and more, but if you are using an automotive radiator (not heater core) to cool your CPU......well, that must be a sight to see
post #30 of 44
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoC View Post
My boss (former mechanic) says antifreezes contain antielectrolytics to help prevent galvanic corrosion.

The million$ question before I build my loop is... Are antifreezes rough on the pumps, tubing, or other components?
yes.
Running pure h2o is worst idea. adding antifreeze +algae helps keep the water healthier.http://www.swiftnets.com/store/produ...asp?ProdID=181 i use some of this with my loop, along with some other mixtures. 11y.o. wc gear running pretty healthy.




did the difference in surface area/roughness affect or aid cooling at all? I always wondered. I havent seen any significant results myself
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