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watercooling temp question - Page 2

post #11 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by saophen View Post

Ya I want to do it, but I don't want to just put the IHS back on without it secured. What glue could I use to seal it back to the die?>

It will be secured by the motherboard latch. So no need to glue it bak.
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post #12 of 14
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Originally Posted by saophen View Post

Thanks for the reply. I have read up on delidding, I'm just scared I'll ruin my chip. What amount of skill level do you think on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being the hardest? What temp changes are we looking at?

I have run a deliided 3770K for 6 months or so and combined with Liquid Metal TIM (like Coollaboratory CL-U), temp drops of about 15c to 20c under load are realistic (my drop was 17.5C)...skill level is a tricky question...there are two methods - the razor method and the hammer-and-vise method...the razor method is what I used, and as long as you read all the OP stuff here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-club you should be fine though there are risks...

The main thing with the razor method is to take your time, don't use the edges of the blade but the center and at all costs keep the blade angled away from the PCB and toward the IHS metal. Light PCB scratches are not an issue as long as you cover them with nail polish or MX4 (non-conductive materials)...but best to avoid scratches altogether per delid-OP step-by-step
post #13 of 14
Thread Starter 
Those temps sound amazing, are thete any issues with longevity of the liquid tim on the die itself? Watching the vice method makes it look extremely easy.
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post #14 of 14
I only had it for less than a year so I couldn't really answer that w/certainty, but a brief remount of another water block showed that everything was still the way it was when applied 6 months or so earlier. As long as it stays 'sandwiched' between CPU and cooling block and was applied correctly, it should last for several years

You do have to be careful with liquid metal TIM as it is capacitive and conductive - meaning that you absolutely don't want to get any on sensitive electronic bits...you just brush a very light coat on, per manufacturers' videos (ie Coollaboratory).

EDIT - in my case, I use the CL-U liquid TIM on both the CPU die (post-delid) and the IHS-to-water-block area...on the latter, you can also use a good non-metal TIM such as MX4...will cost you 1-3 C but otherwise might give you a bit more peace of mind...
Edited by Joa3d43 - 8/8/13 at 12:17pm
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