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Possible PSU failure; Multimeter Reads 12V as 11.9V

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
I have an older modular PSU (Kingwin Mach 1 600W)

the computer it's installed in shut down after 20 min...then 5 min down to shutting off in seconds. I swapped in a different PSU and the problem was gone. I dusted my old PSU (the Kingwin) and tested it with the paper clip and it's been running 24 no issues (except the LED lights flicker every few seconds)

Whipped out the multimeter and the 12V yellow wire yields 11.9V while another PSU consistently puts 12.2V. I tried hooking up an LED light and it also flickers on this 12V wire along with the LED in the PSU fans.

So my question...this PSU is good as dead since it can no longer sustain the 12V?
Is it safe to buy a certain part of a PSU from a typical electronic accessory store to try and fix this up? I'm not expecting miralces...just a learning process for me as long as it's safe. I'd hate to toss out this beautiful nickle-plated PSU (aircraft styled modular cables were awesome as well)
     
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post #2 of 9
Your Kingwin is an older Super Flower unit and its a 5 year old unit

Maybe its time for a new one?

It might be broken or not i cant say for sure
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post #3 of 9

I don't think the voltage that matters that much. An old one I had never went above 10.9 (royal piece of junk) but never had any psu related issues.

 

It's still in use today.

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post #4 of 9
Is the fan spinning freely? How hot does the PSU get?
    
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post #5 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shilka View Post

Your Kingwin is an older Super Flower unit and its a 5 year old unit

Maybe its time for a new one?

It might be broken or not i cant say for sure

well I'm on a seasonic now...this is for my old rig. For my old rig I currently have a Coolmax 600W powering it...I just want to play around with the Kingwin to know more about how voltage and PSU internals work...and if it's possible to replace parts safely instead of tossing it out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bit_reaper View Post

Is the fan spinning freely? How hot does the PSU get?

yeah fans are not the issue...I just recently dusted it
     
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post #6 of 9
The ATX specification is ± 10% on the 12V rail which means a margin of 1,2V. Your power supply is within 0,1V which is excellent. If that power supply is faulty, it's not because of the voltage regulation on the 12V rail. There might be some other problems like ripple which you can't measure yourself.

Regarding repairing it yourself, unless you're an electrical engineer or something (in which case you wouldn't be here asking questions about PSUs but rather answering them), do NOT attempt to repair a power supply by yourself. These are built using very tight tolerances and are soldered by robots to ensure these tolerances are respected. Sorry to tell you buy you'll never beat a robot when it comes to soldering. A skilled specialist that knows exactly which part is needed probably could hand-solder a capacitor or something but if you have to ask how, you're not qualified.
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post #7 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowmen View Post

Regarding repairing it yourself, unless you're an electrical engineer or something (in which case you wouldn't be here asking questions about PSUs but rather answering them), do NOT attempt to repair a power supply by yourself. These are built using very tight tolerances and are soldered by robots to ensure these tolerances are respected. Sorry to tell you buy you'll never beat a robot when it comes to soldering. A skilled specialist that knows exactly which part is needed probably could hand-solder a capacitor or something but if you have to ask how, you're not qualified.
The larger components, the ones more liable to fail in a design like this, are manually soldered. If you took a look at some of those PCBs, that would be readily apparent. There's no machine that solders like what you see there.

And you're probably thinking about an electronics tech rather than an engineer. An electrical engineer may or may not do any hardware or PCB design, let alone field analysis or repairs. That said, hand-soldering these larger parts isn't too difficult and doesn't really require special education. Anybody can learn and do it. You just need the right tools to poke around, or it's going to be really difficult. Also, the primary side cap stores a voltage higher than your mains voltage, so there's a real danger of electrocution if you do something really stupid.


The problem is that you can't really diagnose these things without a high-speed scope. 11.9 V is quite normal and well within tolerances, as noted earlier.

Probably the best you could do—though this is enough in many but not all cases—is to visually inspect for damages. If you see blown or leaking capacitors, you could replace those. If some silicon part burned out, you might be able to replace that. There's no guarantee that this fixes the problem though.
post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 
I've very little soldering experience and don't want to risk getting electrocuted over a 6 year old PSU!

since I like the shell/cables so much, is it a simple screwdriving job to swap out the faulty internals and frankenstein in the internals from a completely different PSU?
     
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post #9 of 9
Screw holes very well might not line up, you'd need to spend a lot of effort to solder wires to the modular connector board (and even then it might not be a good idea depending on what electronics are there), and so on.
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