maybe you are right or maybe I would run into a completely different set of issues by now after 2 years of running "premixed" and metals combo I had in loop. as I said, to each its own.
in fact almost everything is in pristine condition and VERY clean, save for Bitspower parts and a few various stop fittings.
I am removing Nickel parts from the loop for good and replacing those with chromatized ones, no more Nickel, nor Silver. I can live with slightly flaked off edges and threads of BP compression fittings (I cleaned them pretty good I think) and as long as they do not flake more, and they shouldn't considered they looked OK for 1.5 years before PT Nuke Copper was introduced into loop which made the water more acidic and made the slow galvanic corrosion process faster ... which sped up even more after adding acetic acid on the final end of "loop cleaning". lesson learned.
I am not going to use premixed coolant if that is what you are trying to convince me to do. distilled + PT Nuke PHN for me..
thanks for your advice man, I understand your point and am grateful for your opinion, don't get me wrong. I knew all the ups and downs of mixing metals, additives and such ... learned it all before throughout the last 2 years ... I just failed to recognize that I actually had Nickel all along in the loop (Koolance Inline valve) which is bad when used with Silver ... then it got worse when cheap EK Nickel stop plug was introduced along with more corrosive additive NOT designed for Nickel/Aluminum/Zinc/Steel parts. I read the warnings on that additive, I just didn't realize that they actually did apply to my loop ... they did after all.
as per your worry about stuff inside radiators, they are clean and freely flowing, no change in that (EX360 actually flows better now, vinegar must have unblocked some slight clog it had since some time), that's what I observed when flushing and back-flushing them on weekend, same goes for all blocks, no loose metal pieces, no clogs, no dirt, no scratches, no trouble.
I think I am and will be fine since now on. when I have spare funds I will get new better (chromatized) compression fittings from Alphacool, something I can't do now, and dump the slightly damaged BP fittings or keep them as spares.
After seeing the inside of my pump, I can only say that it IS STILL in pristine condition and there was no loose metal pieces in it, nor signs of scratches or anything like that. propeller was like in new condition, still having factory dots (yellow and blue markers), not the best picture I took but it all looked perfect:
Edited by feniks - 8/12/13 at 10:55am
Originally Posted by Zero4549
Which is why all your stuff is in pristine condition right now right?
Now... you "fixed" your fittings and plugs, but now that you have uneven plating you are only asking for trouble in the long run. You would probably be better off at this point stripping the plating completely.
And have you even considered what the inside of your radiator pipes probably look like right now? Good luck cleaning that.
I can't say that running vinegar for several days or mixing multiple incompatible additives is something you wouldn't have done had you used a coolant instead, or that it would have prevented the issue if you had. I can say however that a little bit of knowledge is dangerous. People here like to throw around the incomplete advice "just use water and biocide", "run vinegar through the loop", etc as if people are going to know exactly what that means... clearly you didn't, and you aren't the first or the last that this will happen to.
If the common noob advice was instead "use , or specifically
distilled water and these specific
additives in this specific
ratio", this kind of nonsense wouldn't happen nearly as frequently. Since the second part of that suggestion relies heavily on availability of certain additives worldwide, and is also a lot more long winded than the average noob has an attention span for, it is a lot easier to just say "Use Feser One" or "Use Mayhems Pastel" and be done with it.
As for issues occurring from using coolants instead of water - ANY issue that can develop with a coolant will develop faster with water. If you are having an issue with slow galvanic reaction with a good coolant, you are going to have a FAST issue with galvanic corrosion with water, etc. The only exception to this is the "issue" of dye staining. 1) not all coolants have dye 2) not all coolants that have dye stain 3) staining is cosmetic
, as since in most setups it is only visible if you have clear tubing, it is really quite irrelevant. If you have clear tubing and colored coolant, you want to see that color! You shouldn't be reusing tubing, so it's not like you're going to get second hand tubing prestained to the wrong color.
And no, I'm not saying coolants are better
than water+proper additives. I'm saying they're easier and safer for noobs. I'm also not saying ALL coolants are worth using, but there is no point in anyone suggesting a poor coolant, so that is moot.