Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter
Alphacool gives you exactly the right number of screws you need. The shorter ones are for 25mm fans mounted directly to the rad, and the longer ones are for going through the fans and the case into the rad. Already mounted mine no problems.
That said, my monsta came with copper screws and my xt45 came with black screws. I've already bought more screws for the top fans on the monsta which is going in the bottom as I do like the look of the black better, even if the copper is a nice touch.
UT60 came with Black, XT45 came with copper. I'll trade ya the blacks for the coppers
I am glad it somehow worked for you (are you perhaps using fan grilles ?) ..... but a half dozen threads here on OCN, my own measurements and even the Alphacool web site say different. Alphacool's site says the longer ones are for when using fan grilles and such. But the Enthoo doesn't have anything 5mm thick...the plate with the mounting slots is about 0.5mm. Here's one of the half dozen threads I found looking for screws, 4 of them were on OCN.
The two different screws are 5 mm difference in length. If the 30mm works in direct contact fan to rad, then you need a 5mm thick something in the middle .... I have nothing that thick in the Enthoo so danged if I ain't curious what you got and I don't
. I did consider adding grilles (may have to for the side ones if my rubber bands give out) but didn't wanna spend $50 when cheap screws would work.
I still can't figure how ya did it though
. I can't make the math work. Caliper Measurements:
Distance Between Rad Outside Surface and Screw Protector = 4mm (might be 5 hard to measure as threading makes metal protrude inside)
-Top Rad Push
Fan Thickness - 26mm (Screws not affected by anti-vibration pads on one side on Phanteks Fans as they countersunk)
Thickness of metal where mounting slots are = 0.5mm (estimated - didn't wanna take apart again to measure)
Total = 26.5mm ...... So the 30mm screws went 3.5mm into the 4mm space before the screw protector which jives with what I saw during assembly.
-Top Rad Pull
Fan Thickness - 26mm (Screws not affected by anti-vibration pads on one side)
Total = 26.0mm ...... So the 30mm screws will go 4mm into the 4mm space and just touch the screw protector.
If I used the 35mm screws in either case, tightening them would leave me with 8.5 - 9.0 mm of screw left and the screw protector only provides 4 maybe 5
-Bottom Rad Push
Fan Thickness - 27mm (Screws now affected by pads on both sides)
Thickness of metal where mounting slots are = < 0.5mm (estimated, didn't disassemble again)
Thickness of Washer I need to keep screw heads from going thru slt holes = 1mm
Thickness of Screw Head as not countersunk due to washer = 2mm
Total = 30.5mm ...... So here, the 30mm screws don't work, too short ..... however the 35 were too long, so had to go back out and buy another set of 1mm washers.
With two washers, I got to 31.5, leaving me with 3.5mm of screw in the 4mm screw protector space.
-Bottom Rad Pull
Same as Top Rad Pull
Originally Posted by bigmac11
With all due respect, if you have a really hot VRM section or your pushing your memory sometimes it will overall serve you better to have to top rad exhaust. I know that its counter productive to your delta but sometimes it can mean a lot. When all the fans are set as intake sometimes there cannot be a proper air exchange to benefit the whole system.
I assume you are referring to localized air eddies as opposed to strictly volume or throughput. This is a point often gone unconsidered so glad you brought up.
From a volume standpoint, Air In = Air Out ..... if not your case would implode / explode
With one 480 blowing in and one blowing out, the effectiveness of your top rad is obviously reduced as the air exhaust from that bottom rad will greatly reduce the efficiency of the top rad having a very significant impact on your cooling potential. OTOH, with 8 fans blowing down and 8 blowing up, against each other, the various current eddies that from may result in "dead spots" . So having top rad fans blowing out as you suggest means a pretty much even air flow front to back so every place should get some circulation. Still even that flow might not be enough if front / rear fans steal away your current. Some solutions.....
1. Antec "Spot Cool" has done nice things for me in past in this respect.
2. I have also adds fans behind drive cages tho these work best for cooling between 2 cards in SLI
2. Add MoBo MOFSET and SRM water blocks.
I haven't heard of any RAM cooling issues at least not with DDR3 and normal "outside the lab bench" usages.
While we on the subject, off cooling, I have been thinking of a way to force air oiu and theu the back side of a MoBo maybe using on of Prolimatech;s 15mm thick Vortex Fans
http://www.prolimatech.com/en/products/detail.asp?id=1906&page=1Edited by JackNaylorPE - 11/5/13 at 4:00pm