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[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners - Page 1433

post #14321 of 19388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackmesatech View Post

What would you suggest for blocking that heat?
We want to stop the air flow going back into the case.
Tape, contact vinyl, paper, cardboard, whatever will stop air flow flowing back down into the case.
post #14322 of 19388
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post

It is also a shame that the average consumer does not have the ability to actually go to a store to actually have a hands on with the case to look at the issues, compare build quality, see what may be an entirely different issue for them, etc. Choosing cases has become a ridiculously difficult task these days.
Ah, the bane of the internet. I still use an Antec 900 case that I bought (seems like ages ago) from a well-stocked computer shop. Now, all they have a front desk and pretty much no stock at all.
I'm fortunate to have a Micro Center and a couple of Fry's within easy driving distance, but I certainly can agree with your quote above!
Edited by Testing12 - 7/18/16 at 4:11pm
post #14323 of 19388
Chiobe, the glass is better than anything that will come with ANY OEM case. I'd say it's the best you can buy. As for the Primoi, it's huge and I have no idea what could be done with it. The way to do it is to look for build logs and find one near what you're wanting to do and look for the specs of the res, that's what I'd do. I had a 200mm Monsoon for the Enthoo Lux but didn't put it in because it was just too big but it might look right in the primo. The Luxe is big and I can't even imagine what you could put in a Primo. Probably dual system without much problem. You guys complaining about dust intake just change the flow. The possibilities are endless with these cases. Limitless. If you're watercooling and using a 360 and a 240 in this case you don't have to worry about dust at all. Playing Crysis 3 at 2k all maxed out at 100hz my highest temp recorded was 49 celcius with a 6700k and 980ti on a single loop. The water flow never even changed. Totally silent. These are HIGH quality cases. Much better than Fractal. You'd have to go to the super high end custom market to find a better case and they are just boxes with NO dust filters anywhere. It has a lot to do with setting up you fan speed and I think slightly positive pressure is the key to keeping the dust out the longest. You'll never keep it out but you can add a little time in between cleaning. With slightly positive air you can go a year here in the south without it getting to bad and I rarely keep a computer two years so............................................also, my Luxe has a AX1200i under the cover with room left over for a hard drive. But for me a spinning drive just makes too much noise. SSD for me. Low power, silent and lasts forever, at least the sandisk extremes do.
post #14324 of 19388
Quote:
Originally Posted by paskowitz View Post

Annoyingly, no. It just interferes with the vertical bracket mount at the bottom front of the case. That being said, you can buy a 3.5 inch cage from phanteks and use the bottom mounting point. If you need two drives I suggest you get creative and break out the high strength Velcro and sound dampening foam.

Hrm ok, fair enough, thanks smile.gif

Looks like it would have to be a 240mm in the front if I wanted to use the 3.5" bays then, and a slimmer 360mm in the top - 30mm? Will have to have a think about whether it's worth it or not, the Evolv ATX is smaller and looks much higher quality than my 750D haha.
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post #14325 of 19388
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotty99 View Post

I figured the dust would be pretty bad just looking at the pictures of the intakes, i also have a cat so ya. I guess its nzxt h440 or fractal define r5 for me at this point.

Phanteks its a really odd bird to me, they clearly know how to do proper dust filters as shown on the evolv atx but then you look at the dust filters on the P400 which are literally laughable.

I took some photos for you for reference. This rig has been running for about 1 month straight (a little over if you include the time it sat and the time it ran with a faulty motherboard for a couple weeks, I also moved with it and opened/closed it what seems like 100 times now lol) in a garage with 6 cats that are pretty much always in the garage, the rig is almost always on and the PSU fan is constantly running (no silent mode). I am using the Pro-M acrylic. I didn't really take any photos of the inside except for the heatsink of the CPU but inside is spotless even with the pci-e slots removed (have positive air pressure so no dust coming in anyways). Here's the photo of the heatsink:
CPU Heatsink (Click to show)

As you can see no dust accumulation yet built up in the heatsink, all the fans are so far clean and dust free. For reference of how much is accumulated in a couple months here is a picture of the front top and psu fan filter
Front (Click to show)
Top (Click to show)
PSU filter (Click to show)

I knocked a couple hairs off the front a couple times but nothing major. As you can see the PSU filter picked up the most of it because it is on the bottom. I was able to easily pull it out and put it in without moving the case though and cleaning only took a quick blow through the back and wipe off:
Clean PSU filter (Click to show)

The front panel was even easier really. I removed the front panel (which is remarkably easy, dont forget to remove anything plugged in to front panel ports). Checked the filter and it was nearly spotless because of the front mesh so I did not even remove the filter I just blew through it and closed it back up, then wiped off the front with the palm of my hand and done:
Mostly clean front (Click to show)

For basically 1 minute every couple months to keep the case mostly clean and still functioning I think that is pretty good. Really surprised me how well it is keeping dust out. Cat hairs don't even get close to entering. If you are hesitant because of this hopefully this helps give you an idea of the buildup in some pretty bad conditions.
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post #14326 of 19388
you guys and your power supplies with spinning fans. got two builds, one just transferred into the InWin 303 (very impressive for a $90 case btw) and one in my Luxe. my psu filters are clean because the psu fans don't spin.
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post #14327 of 19388
Quote:
Originally Posted by PureBlackFire View Post

you guys and your power supplies with spinning fans. got two builds, one just transferred into the InWin 303 (very impressive for a $90 case btw) and one in my Luxe. my psu filters are clean because the psu fans don't spin.

Yeah that is my next goal is a new PSU for that exact reason. I am still running a 5+ year old Seasonic 650w m12II from back when that was the best bang for buck and silent mode was nearly unheard of. It is not even sold anymore in the version I have (has old proprietary straight line 6pin instead of standard rectangular 6pin modular cables). Also doesn't run in the some of the newer c-state settings and I think it is the reason I keep having trouble coming out of sleep (even though the unsupported c-state is disabled). Just cant afford to get a new one right now unfortunately. Still need a new GPU too.
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post #14328 of 19388
Lets try this again:

Phanteks Enthoo Primo SE
How big of a reservoir can I add on the reservoir mount besides the motherboard?
I will be using Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 in top and bottom, with a single set of fans (dont think its enough room for push-pull), if that matters to the reservoir length.
Also, the pump spot besides the PSU, can it still be used with a 200mm long PSU?
post #14329 of 19388
A little update and some more information on fitment of 272mm E-ATX in the Evolv ATX case. I didn't include pictures of my own RVE10 motherboard regarding the removal of the back plate, but I will post information about it in my build log once I create that. With the grommets for the motherboard tray removed, and some nice insulation work using electrical tape, you have a very tight, but still acceptable, fitment of the board and it's safe to use.






Going back to the rest of the build, here's some more pictures.

Getting near completion, need a few more fittings, the CPU, and the second GPU.


These next three pictures show the QDC set up I made for myself. I plan to use SLI, but, this configuration will allow me to quick connect to one, or two GPU's (two once their combined with a terminal bridge in the water cooling loop.) This way, when I inevitably swap GPU's, I can quickly remove two. I also gave myself slack to allow myself to by-pass the GPU's completely, and run the entire loop just for the CPU. This let's me test new GPU's when I get them on air, and then order water blocks once I confirm they're functional.





This set highlights how I mounted the top radiator to provide room for another 360mm in the front. It was still a little difficult to fit the front radiator in there with the top on all the way at the case rear.

First, you'll need mounting screws with a allen-head (like that come with EK's radiators). Secure in the radiator with the screws, but leave them loose. This way you can slide the radiator on the bracket with ease. Also, be careful, as you will scratch the paint on your rad if you aren't like I did.


As you can see, it was loose enough to slide the radiator to where will be the "back" side of the case. Make sure you put in screws in places that won't block you from moving backwards.


For this next step, you need to remove the top panel of the case. It's pretty self explanatory, with four screws, two in the front and two on the back. Just take note, as one side has longer screws than the other, and those are needed to secure the panel properly. Slide the radiator tray into the case, slide the radiator as far back in the case as you can, and use your allen key to tighten down the screws. This is why it's important, as some are blocked by the top panel of the case. The allen key allows you to still tighten them down once installed into the case.


At this point, you can also add some more screws to hold in the radiator for extra support, now that you don't need some removed to allow the radiator to slide on the bracket. You can now re-install the top panel for the case.


All said and done, the radiator should be touching the rear of the case, allowing fitment of front-mounted radiators. The specific two I used in mine are the EK SE 360 (360*26mm) on top, and an EK PE 360 (360*38mm) in the front.



A couple of random shots, showing my pump and how it's mounted, and my cables.



Quote:
Originally Posted by PureBlackFire View Post

you guys and your power supplies with spinning fans. got two builds, one just transferred into the InWin 303 (very impressive for a $90 case btw) and one in my Luxe. my psu filters are clean because the psu fans don't spin.

PureBlackFire, I have not forgotten you! I know I still owe you a picture of the 3.5" caddy and spacing below. It's kind of hard to give you a definite answer, as there are multiple way to mount it and give or take space away from one side or another.
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post #14330 of 19388
^ nah, I actually got a good look at the hard drive position in two of the pics you just posted. thanks. you've been a great help to those wondering about fitting certain hardware into this case. thumb.gif
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