Originally Posted by doyll
Maybe make one out of a piece of strap metal. Bend the 90* and wrap it around something slightly smaller, clamp and drill. Than cut off ends, dress clean and paint or Plasti Dip if you want a rubberized finish.
Or maybe something like a 3/4 in - 1 in Steel Conduit and Pipe Hanger?
There's like 1 mm clearance all the way around....the P clamps were attractive cause the smooth and thin....anything that was not a pure circle of the exact diameter wuda been problematic.... appreciate the effort tho. In the end a combination of working the QD a few time to break in that O-ring and the lock-tite did the trick..... will upload a pic as soon as phone done updating.
Originally Posted by William Clement
Could you be so kind and say what extender + 90degree couling you used here? I am thinking about a similiar settup for draining. But then only on the other side (port 7) of my monsta 280 in the bottom.
Either i go use the qd4 or just go with a crane. Have both laying here.
Sure....from rad to QD in orderName (what I call it) - (Name (what FCPU calls it) - FCPU stocl No. - Cost
G1/4" 90° Rotary Bend - Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R) - ex-tub-629$11.99
G1/4" Male by Male Extender-Bitspower Dual G1/4" Male / Male Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C08) - ex-tub-609$5.25
G1/4 30mm Fitting Extender - Bitspower G1/4 Male to Female Extender - 30mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C63) - ex-tub-777$7.99
G1/4 Fitting Extender - Bitspower G 1/4" Thread Fitting Extender - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C40) - ex-tub-700$2.99
Quick-Disconnect for Drain - Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Male w/ Inner G1/4 (BP-MBQDMIG14) - ex-tub-1636$19.95
1. EK got me a 2nd and 3rd time..... Both Backplates for the Asus 780 water block were missing nuts..... it's all screws where the backplate and block are equal but the two end ones where there's backplate and no block (good thing no block or it wouldn't fit) need nuts or thew screw into air. Frozen offered to find and send something but I just went to HW store. Odd that they remembered ya washers but no nuts.
Then on CPU block I was disappointed to find 3 of the 4 needed washers..... FCPU immediately responded and offered to send
They spare / replacement ones are .80mm so I checked instructions which say 0.70 mm .... then to be sure measured what I had .... I had 0.83mm, 0.87mm and 0.98mm thick. Now I don't think it will matter much whether that 0.7 or 0.8 ..... but seems to me they oughta all be the same. FCPU overnighting me a set.
2. I am no longer a hardlining n00b.
-Finished bottom rad => Top GFX card +> Top Rad run
-............................=> Bot GFX card +> Top Rad run
-MoBo => Reservoir run
Need 2 fittings for bottom rad => Bot GFX card
Need to install CPU WB to to that
Need to do pump .... res => Pump and Pump to Bottom rad ..... haven't decided whether to use flex for any of that (vibration isolation) need to finish mounting plate.
Anyway here's a pic..... hopefully will finish this weekend.
Was lot easier than I expected ..... though lotta measure once, cut 5 times stuff....parallel loop was hard to get square.QUESTION:
Reflection kind blocks it out but there's a bitspower fill tube inside the res at top. Unfortunately, with only one top port, I realized that one the res fills past the bottom of the tube, that air is trapped. Was thinking of adding a tee at the res outlet and coming off horizontally to a bleed valve which would be closed except for "fill time". Would use compression fitting on downstream side of valve and length of tube to get it well above the rad.
Any other ideas to get some (not all) of the air out ? Want to leave some room in there ... about half the tube length just want safely under water to quell noise. oddly when I had it by itself outta the box filled with water.... every which way I tipped it never got a drop of air out..Edited by JackNaylorPE - 11/21/13 at 9:57pm