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[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners - Page 16

post #151 of 18687
Yeah I've got plans to put a 480 UT60 up top and a 360 monsta in the bottom, both in push/pull, but I'm going to hold off on ordering the rads or any of the other watercooling gear until I get a mobo in the case to verify my clearances on the memory, heatsinks, and the CPU power cable.

I was going to put a 280 monsta in the bottom, but changed my mind once I figured out the 360 will fit down there without losing any of the HDD cages, which offers me more rad surface area than the 280 plus there are a lot better 120mm fans than 140s available for a thick rad. That. plus the 280 looks like it would be a very tight squeeze to get the side panel back on from the monstermawds video review. The monsta rad is only a few mm narrower than that Black Ice 280 they had that wouldn't fit.
Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 9/9/13 at 12:21pm
post #152 of 18687
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

Yeah I've got plans to put a 480 UT60 up top and a 360 monsta in the bottom, both in push/pull, but I'm going to hold off on ordering the rads or any of the other watercooling gear until I get a mobo in the case to verify my clearances on the memory, heatsinks, and the CPU power cable.

I was going to put a 280 monsta in the bottom, but changed my mind once I figured out the 360 will fit without losing any of the HDD cages, which offers me more rad surface area plus there are a lot better 120mm fans than 140s available for a thick rad.

Agree about 120 mm fans. Personally I don't think there much difference between the ut60 and xt45 in performance. You can always check tests on martinliquidlab page. All the rads (2x 240 and 1x 280mm) I already have so the only one missing for my re-build was the 480 mm. If Iw as building from zero ground I would probably go the 480 mm x2 or like you 360 mm bottom to save the hds cages.
post #153 of 18687
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

Just got the xt45 (smaller sibling) of the 60 for my top rad. I am going push-pull route with 8x ap15 over there.

Yeah if i was going to pick a thinner rad, the XT45 would be the one. As i'm going with 140mm wide, clearance is a big issue
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

Yeah I've got plans to put a 480 UT60 up top and a 360 monsta in the bottom, both in push/pull, but I'm going to hold off on ordering the rads or any of the other watercooling gear until I get a mobo in the case to verify my clearances on the memory, heatsinks, and the CPU power cable.

I was going to put a 280 monsta in the bottom, but changed my mind once I figured out the 360 will fit without losing any of the HDD cages, which offers me more rad surface area plus there are a lot better 120mm fans than 140s available for a thick rad.

Looking at the pics it was 50/50 if iot would work with my mobo, so like you im wating to get the case and then pull the trigger on it.
I've gone with a 280 monsta in the floor, and currently figuring what 240 to put in the front

If you look at the specs for the Phanteks fans, the stats are better than the corsair SP120 quiets in every way, and seeing as you get 5 already in the case, i figured why not get more?
post #154 of 18687
From the Q&A on TheModZoo fitting a 480 up top won't be a problem, it just has to be a 60mm @ the biggest, or there will be serious motherboard collision issues.

"What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?"
"The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue."
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post #155 of 18687
Yeah, this will be my first watercooled build, so just about everything is going to be new going into it, so I've been doing a ton of figuring out what will work best for me.

I might be biting off more than I can chew for my first go at watercooling but I'm going to try to use Primochill's rigid tubing with this build. It looks like it might be tricky to pull off using a heat gun for all of the bends, but I think I'll be able to do it. I don't mind if I have to buy some extra tubage to learn & make mistakes with. I just really like the way those rigid tubes look. Haven't made my mind up what to do for a pump yet. I sorta want to have dual pumps if just for redundancy, but not sure yet. I still have more reading up on them yet before I can make any sort of informed decision.

The only thing I already have that I know is going in it is an ax1200 psu. That, and I'm thinking I probably will move my GTX 760s in there since I just found out that GTX 670 reference waterblocks will fit them, and I really like xspc's 670 blocks, and in that case I'll just buy different card(s) for my air-cooled Cosmo II.

The new Ivy E processors coming out are going to have me weighing over the next few weeks whether it's going to be worth it to go with a new 4930K against what I hope will be a price-drop on the 3930K, and then deciding what mobo I want to go with.
post #156 of 18687
Thread Starter 
I'm watching Jesse's thread. He's already started modding his. Changed the front grill and said he's got a plan for top grill too. wink.gif

Just made a deal for an Asus GTX 580 DirectCU II to go into mine!! biggrin.gif
post #157 of 18687
Quote:
Originally Posted by skupples View Post

From the Q&A on TheModZoo fitting a 480 up top won't be a problem, it just has to be a 60mm @ the biggest, or there will be serious motherboard collision issues.

"What is the max clearance for a radiator installed in the top panel?"
"The case has a clearance of 70mm for mounting a radiator in the roof. The mounts are offset so installing a 60mm (120mm series) radiator in push pull should not be an issue."

Actually a 120 rad (240, 360, 480) is offset enough that unless you have really tall memory or whatnot, it looks to me like it might well be possible to fit an 80mm thick monsta rad up top in push/pull (the phanteks 'watercooling possibilities' video implies you'll be able to fit a monsta up there), but at the very least you'd be blocking the view of the top ~35-40mm of your mobo, and that's assuming you don't have something else taller than your ram, like fittings for a watercooled mosfet, or whatever that might get in the way of that thicker rad & push fans. That, and if you're putting in a 480 monsta up top you'd almost definitely be giving up use of your top 5.25" bay.

Like Jesse wrote, unless you have really tall ram or whatnot, there should be no problem with a 60mm thick rad and a 25mm fan (85mm in all) which would hang ~15mm in front of the mobo (top of mobo to top of case is 70mm). If Jesse was already saying that a 120 rad & fans is offset enough that it would probably clear low profile ram & normal mosfet heatsinks, etc and whatever else it typically in that top ~15mm of a board , then as long as you don't have anything in the top ~35mm of your board sticking out more than that then I'm thinking we might likewise get away with fitting a monsta up top.

From the Phanteks "Watercooling Possibilities" youtube vid:
Built with GIF Movie Gear 4.0

That's just another reason I want to wait on getting the rest of my stuff until after I have my hands on this case, even though it's doubtful that I'd want to try to put an 80mm thick rad up top. The 60mm 480 up top and a 360 monsta in the bottom ought to be plenty for me, but I won't decide and start ordering any rads until after I see what will fit.


Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 9/9/13 at 1:54pm
post #158 of 18687
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

Yeah, this will be my first watercooled build, so just about everything is going to be new going into it, so I've been doing a ton of figuring out what will work best for me.

I might be biting off more than I can chew for my first go at watercooling but I'm going to try to use Primochill's rigid tubing with this build. It looks like it might be tricky to pull off using a heat gun for all of the bends, but I think I'll be able to do it. I don't mind if I have to buy some extra tubage to learn & make mistakes with. I just really like the way those rigid tubes look. Haven't made my mind up what to do for a pump yet. I sorta want to have dual pumps if just for redundancy, but not sure yet. I still have more reading up on them yet before I can make any sort of informed decision.

The only thing I already have that I know is going in it is an ax1200 psu. That, and I'm thinking I probably will move my GTX 760s in there since I just found out that GTX 670 reference waterblocks will fit them, and I really like xspc's 670 blocks, and in that case I'll just buy different card(s) for my air-cooled Cosmo II.

The new Ivy E processors coming out are going to have me weighing over the next few weeks whether it's going to be worth it to go with a new 4930K against what I hope will be a price-drop on the 3930K, and then deciding what mobo I want to go with.

In my build, I just used 1 4 pack of primochill tubing, and bending is actually pretty easy. I might do a video on it as I made some mistakes while working on mine and now I have a better handle on bending and can almost bend a tube the way I need it without any issues.

In a nutshell the trick is to heat more area than what you need, for example you are going to do a 90 degree bend just make sure you heat 3 to 4 inches of area around the bend. If you do not do that you will cause thermal shock and the tubing will bubble and look ugly when bent.

Also nothing to worry about with your first time water cooling.

Simple Tips:

1. Make sure you have an easy plan for draining the loop.
2. Make sure you have some extra fittings then what you need.
3. Same with tubing, get some extra (I only used 2 tubes from the 4 pack that I bought for my build)
4. Measure twice cut once.
5. Get some surgical gloves as they help get a better grip on fittings when tightining.
6. Flush your radiator and blocks with distilled water.
7. Leak test the system with only the pump powered and just distilled water. (in case you spill, distilled water will not damage anything)
8. Draw our tube routing plan, I use old fashion pen and paper to figure mine out.

Use the time you have to plan how you want to route the tubing, and how you want to place the ports on the radiators.
Edited by jassilamba - 9/9/13 at 1:04pm
post #159 of 18687
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jassilamba View Post

In my build, I just used 1 4 pack of primochill tubing, and bending is actually pretty easy. I might do a video on it as I made some mistakes while working on mine and now I have a better handle on bending and can almost bend a tube the way I need it without any issues.

In a nutshell the trick is to heat more area than what you need, for example you are going to do a 90 degree bend just make sure you heat 3 to 4 inches of area around the bend. If you do not do that you will cause thermal shock and the tubing will bubble and look ugly when bent.

Also nothing to worry about with your first time water cooling.

Simple Tips:

1. Make sure you have an easy plan for draining the loop.
2. Make sure you have some extra fittings then what you need.
3. Same with tubing, get some extra (I only used 2 tubes from the 4 pack that I bought for my build)
4. Measure twice cut once.
5. Get some surgical gloves as they help get a better grip on fittings when tightining.
6. Flush your radiator and blocks with distilled water.
7. Leak test the system with only the pump powered and just distilled water. (in case you spill, distilled water will not damage anything)
8. Draw our tube routing plan, I use old fashion pen and paper to figure mine out.

Use the time you have to plan how you want to route the tubing, and how you want to place the ports on the radiators.
Thanks for the tips. It all helps. I've been looking at several tutorials and vids showing how to get the bends right. Like you said, I don't think I'll have any major problems pulling it off as long as I plan ahead to get some extra to learn with.

Man I really do appreciate that we have Jesse who has hands-on with this case. It's set my mind at ease in so many ways.
post #160 of 18687
How hard do you guys think it'd be to mod that blue light strip to a red LED instead?
Primo
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Primo
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Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-3 Swiftech MCP655 Lamptron CW611 Windows 7 Ultimate N 
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