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[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners - Page 167

post #1661 of 18651
Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

Got it.. No wonder the temps on top are higher. What it the object of temperature readings at different locations without having the side covers on? Airflow in and round case will be very different with side covers installed.

Looking really nice!

Bottom sounds good. Was just curious what case temps are.

Ambient air in the room will not change with side panels on....this is NOT a case temp sensor it's an ambient air sensor. Tho since not actually installed just moving it around can do what ya want just by changing location. It was placed at various locations where it was measuring air temps INTO not INSIDE the case.

For example with the sensor poking thru a hole in the bottom of the case, the ass end of the sensor is inside the case but the temp measuring part is outside the case with the inlet fans sucking air in and going right by it before it gets to the rads

As for the side panels.....

Right side ..... I haven't done my sleeving yet and it's a bird nest of wires ....can't put right side on as with the two fans there, they'd eat my wires.
Left side.... I just finished the "plumbing part" of the build yesterday and was still shifting and tweaking things.

Have left panel on now (done w/ that side) and right panel is "leaning" in place....effectively "closed up" .... 1/2 gap between case and panel on right side at bottom

But they certainly gonna be below 30C under stress testing given the water temps. Right now it's sitting on back of 5.25" drive bay and readings are

Top Rad Water InTop Rad In = 24.6
Top Rad Water Out = 24.3

Bot Rad Water In = 24.4
Bot Rad Water Out = 24.0

Case Temp = 24.2

Next order will have a case temp sensor in it.....waiting till I need more stuff as shipping would be close to the cost of a new sensor.


NEW DISCOVERIES:

1. if anyone is "hardlining" (rigid acrylic tube) their build ....

The red, short, plastic one w/ tiny blades is the one sold by on line water cooling shops for $9.99 = Shipping
The gray, steel one with beefy blades is the one sold by Home Depot for $10.72 + ya gas

Why's I get two ? I ordered the red one, but since they didn't pull the order till day I was picking up, it accidentally got sold. It arrived same day I did final fill of loop but tube work was done 4 days earlier. Went to Home Depot so i could get started. Both will work but it's like K-Mart versus Snap On.

2. Remember the Reeven discussion ? Few wondered if ya could close door with the front knobs which became moot when I found out buttons push in to be flush when not being turned..... well accidentally left them "out" in full functioning "knobby status" yesterday and closed door..... door still closes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jassilamba View Post

Looking really really good there mate.

That honestly came out really good. Love it.

Muchos Grassyass .... sorry but my camera wasn't able to pick up the 3 paragraph dedication speech I had inscribed on that pump base ya sent me.... so have something comin back to ya. smile.gif
Edited by JackNaylorPE - 11/30/13 at 1:12pm
911 Carrera
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911 Carrera
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post #1662 of 18651
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADragg View Post

Did you ever figure anything out about this? I'm still running all of my fans off a regular fan header, so they're at full blast but with ........

OK..... here's what I found out ....

1. Phanteks hub (CHA_1) gave me constant 1050ish fan speed no matter what I did anywhere in BIOS.

2. Pump Speed on CPU / CPU Opt headers gave me speed adjustment from like 3500 - 4500 no matter what i did in the BUIOS

After running FanXpert2 profiler

1. Phanteks fans were like 1150 rpm no matter what i did....So I'll outsmart that SoB and put it on CHA_2 which was not optimized.... no change.
2. I now had full functional use of pump speeds.... not all the way down to 1250 but was down to 2100 last nite....just looked now and it's at 2700 and dropping ....
3. Unplug the 12V feed to the PCB and I got full control of the Phanteks fans.....running about 600 rpm now ....as soon as I plug it back in they go to full speed.
4. Did it again this while typing this and it got even better

Here's what I'd suggest .....

1. Check ya fan load..... I have the following fans plugged in

a. (3) push fans top rad
b. (2) push fans bot rad
c. (2) pull fans case front
d. (1) pull fan case rear

don't know what protections this PCB provides to MoBo header so stopped at 8 fans

2. Unplug the 12v lead to PCB

3. Run Fan Expert2 .... when I was done .... none of my case fans were spinning and pump was at 1300 rom

4. Apparently Fan Expert decided I didn't need chassis fans below 40C so it had them starting at 40C. So I clocked on the graph and did the following:

a. It decided that my fans shut off at 30% so it set min speed at 32C once it was over 40C .... so I dragged low operating point (blue ball) to 32% at 20C.
b. I dragged the hi operating point 90% at 70C (after that, it's 100).
c. I dragged the middle one to 60% at 45C

Sitting here browsing at 28C on CPU and fan speed = a wonderfully silent 575

5. I didn't understand what it did with the pump this time.... basically it set it at 13% at 40C, 13% at 60C and 100% at 75C

Looking at the Swiftech 35x2 fan curve at 0 - 13% PWM it does 1300 rpm and from 75 - 100% PWM it does 100%. So I accessed the graph and made it

a. Low Point to 20% PWM at 20C
b. High Point to 74% PWM at 70c
c. Mid point to 30% PWM @ 50C so as to not ram it up as quickly at low end as high.


After ya uninstall AiSuite, check ya services.... (services.msc) and see if ya have Asus fan Control Service .... stop it if so.

I'm really, really happy with FanXpert2 after the above .... it's counter intuitive in some respects as raising the middle point raises everything before that point. But at least in my case , plugging the 12V in to the PCB sets all fans to 12v ... try unplugging it and see what happens.




I didn't use the 4 way optimization ....was gonna try it but my OC was cake ...

a. Change AI Overclocker to:

Manual
XMP
Adaptive
46 muliplier

Got real lucky I guess, didn't have to touch rung voltage, uncore nuthin....everything else at default.


I'm not using the Six Eyes for Fan Control .... just monitoring at this point. Tho as ya may have seen above.... the door can be closed w/ buttons in out position.



I was so glad I got the acrylic topped copper block. After thoroughly flushing every component, I looked at the CPU block to see if was any bubbles..... saw black flakes..... dunno if it was from pump or I'm thinking paint fleks from screwing fittings on and off. But w/o that clear block, that gunk wud still be in there.


Where next .....

Likely scenario.....

1. Pump on CPU / CPU_OPT very happy
2. CHA 1 on Top Rad Fans w/ Phanteks PCB *
3. CHA 2 on Bottom Rad Fans w/ 2nd Phanteks PCB (come January) *
4. CHA 3 on Case Fans w/ 3rd Phanteks PCB (come January)

At this point with a delta T of 10C with 21C air and 31C max water under stress test, I really can't see a reason to spend $100 add the pull fans.

Option 1

As above but with OPT_1 thru 3 using temp sensors.....anyone know if ya can split thermistor leads and send signal to both MoBo and Temp Display in Six Eyes ?

Option 3

Same as 2 but with Six Eyes .... maybe shud read manual smile.gif
Edited by JackNaylorPE - 11/30/13 at 1:25pm
911 Carrera
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel w/ EK Supremacy Cooling Block - Clean P... Asus Maximus VI Formula 2 x Asus GTX 780 DCII w/ EK Full Cover Blocks a... Mushkin Red Line Ridgeback 2 x 8GB DDR302400 10... 
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1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
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2 x Reeven Six Eyes Fan Controller Windows 7 64 Bit Professional OEM ASUS VG248QE Black 23" 144 Hz Monitor Logitech G19s 920-004985 
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911 Carrera
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2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB (2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cach... Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blue Ray Writer 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45-420 + 1 x Alphacool ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
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2 x Reeven Six Eyes Fan Controller Windows 7 64 Bit Professional OEM ASUS VG248QE Black 23" 144 Hz Monitor Logitech G19s 920-004985 
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post #1663 of 18651
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post


Muchos Grassyass .... sorry but my camera wasn't able to pick up the 3 paragraph dedication speech I had inscribed on that pump base ya sent me.... so have something comin back to ya. smile.gif

You sir are too kind. But please you do not have to make it even.

Anyways I updated the front LED mod DIY with some basic tips and pics for replacing the LED in the power switch.

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/
post #1664 of 18651
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

Got it.. No wonder the temps on top are higher. What it the object of temperature readings at different locations without having the side covers on? Airflow in and round case will be very different with side covers installed.

Looking really nice!

Bottom sounds good. Was just curious what case temps are.

Ambient air in the room will not change with side panels on....this is NOT a case temp sensor it's an ambient air sensor. Tho since not actually installed just moving it around can do what ya want just by changing location. It was placed at various locations where it was measuring air temps INTO not INSIDE the case.

Top Rad Water InTop Rad In = 24.6
Top Rad Water Out = 24.3

Bot Rad Water In = 24.4
Bot Rad Water Out = 24.0
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post

Notes on ambient air sensor locations\fom previous discussion:

Sensor Pointing down thru bottom of case thru grille holes = 21.2C
Sensor Pointing thru front of case holes next to fans = 21.0C
Sensor laying on top of case at front = 21.4C
Sensor inside fan mounting area at top = 24.6C
Sensor laying on table 2" in front of front fans = 20.8
Sensor hannging down below desk near floor = 17.9C
Sensor Pointing down thru bottom oif case thru grille holes = 21.2C
Case Temp = 24.2
All room temps are all about 21c.. except on floor (18c) and on top of case (24.6). I'm assuming the reason the is with no sides on case and both bottom and top radiators pulling air in (resulting in higher air temp) that the air being drawn into top of case is being warmed by the heated air coming out of the open sides.

Only an educated guess but why else would the air directly on top of case be so 3+c warmer than anywhere else around outside of case?
Edited by doyll - 11/30/13 at 3:25pm
post #1665 of 18651
Quote:
Originally Posted by jassilamba View Post

Anyways I updated the front LED mod DIY with some basic tips and pics for replacing the LED in the power switch.

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/883-enthoo-primo-front-led-color-change/

Awesome! thumb.gif

I will definitely be doing that mod on my case.
post #1666 of 18651
So who here has put the Enthoo's stock fans on some radiators? If anyone, how have they performed? Using three of those for my top rad would save me about 70 bucks worth of fans.
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Primo
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post #1667 of 18651
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

Question about your drawing (and this case in particular).

From what I'm reading, it doesn't appear that I will be able to put an XSPC RX360 60mm radiator with "push/pull" fans up top and have it not hit my GA-Z77Z-UP7 motherboard. I rant into no amount of issues with trying to cram that into my Switch 810 case, and ended up taking a grinder to the case to finally shoe-horn it in. If this isn't the case here (and I hope I can just put an RX360 in "push/pull" in this case), what are your thoughts about just doing push on the RX360?

According to your drawing, you are sucking cool air in from the top, pushing it through the radiator, and dumping it INSIDE the case. I've always tried to avoid this. Do you think it will be a major issue? Or should I just get a 45mm 360 radiator and go "push/pull" up to and have the air blow out the top?

Thanks for any input.

Well there is no scope for grinding any thing on this case like you did the with 810. Since you already have the 360 rad, I would suggest that you try and fit and see if you can get by just grinding the fan shroud. if that does not work, I would suggest get a XT 480 (45mm) one and put that sucker up top.

Regarding drawing air in, I like to provide outside fresh air to my rads, compared to warm inside air. Personally I don't think it will make a huge difference with how you setup your fans.

Also you get major heat dissipation when you go from 1 size rad to another (example 120 to 240), when it comes to gains with thickness, I say those are not worth the headache to get a fat rad in. Now I know you, and I would expect a surprise from you, knowing your past builds.
post #1668 of 18651
Quote:
Originally Posted by jassilamba View Post

Well there is no scope for grinding any thing on this case like you did the with 810. Since you already have the 360 rad, I would suggest that you try and fit and see if you can get by just grinding the fan shroud. if that does not work, I would suggest get a XT 480 (45mm) one and put that sucker up top.

Regarding drawing air in, I like to provide outside fresh air to my rads, compared to warm inside air. Personally I don't think it will make a huge difference with how you setup your fans.

Also you get major heat dissipation when you go from 1 size rad to another (example 120 to 240), when it comes to gains with thickness, I say those are not worth the headache to get a fat rad in. Now I know you, and I would expect a surprise from you, knowing your past builds.

Thanks for the reply.

I'll try to get the RX360 in up top first to be sure. If it fits, then great, that will save me on buying a 480 radiator and painting it and 2 more fans, but if that RX360 doesn't fit, I will most likely see about putting the RX360 down below (or maybe just save space and put the RX240 there) and getting the 480 then.

If I do go with the 45mm 480 radiator, it's most likely be the EX480 ... mainly because I can get them for $79.99 and would paint it orange. biggrin.gif I'd hate to spend $105 on an Alphacool or $147 for a Black Ice, just for the extra ports and paint that nice looking finish. wink.gif

And surprisingly, no, I don't disagree with you on the size (length) vs thickness point. I'd much rather go with a larger (not thicker) radiator than a thicker one. The added fans on a longer radiator do much more to keep things cool than having all that hot water just sitting in the radiator. That is why the first thing to go was my Monsta 360 from my old build.

My only question will be is should I go with 8 fans on the RX360 45mm thick radiator or just 4? wink.gif

Looking at Martins, they have chart that shows the heat dump of a EX360 with 3 push fans, and at 1200 RPM, it is about 160 watts.



He then goes on to say ...
Quote:
The EX360 despite it’s more dense physical appearance is as indicated as being tuned for slower speed fans where the lesser dense looking RS360 is slightly better for high speed fans. At extremely low speed fans the EX is getting really close to RX levels of performance, but the double thickness RX is superior at all RPM levels.


Now when I look at his review of the ES360 vs RX360 as far as heat dump goes, putting the RS360 in "push/pull" mode really does show a benefit at 1200 RPM ... going from about 160 watts to about 195 watts.



So that makes me wonder if I should put the 4 extra fans on a 480 EX480 and go "push/pull". What are your thoughts on this? Just go "push only" or go "push/pull"?


Regardless, I appreciate your input on drawing air cool air into the case through the rads then dumping it out the back vs just drawing cool air in the front and blowing it through the rads and out. thumb.gif
post #1669 of 18651
If there is enough space to do push pull I say go for it. So with a EX 480 you have enough space to do push pull. Best of all you can just add the fans later.
post #1670 of 18651
Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

All room temps are all about 21c.. except on floor (18c) and on top of case (24.6). I'm assuming the reason the is with no sides on case and both bottom and top radiators pulling air in (resulting in higher air temp) that the air being drawn into top of case is being warmed by the heated air coming out of the open sides.

Only an educated guess but why else would the air directly on top of case be so 3+c warmer than anywhere else around outside of case?

All if those locations were with the unit inside the case but with the sensor part poking thru a hole in it to the outside or directly in front of an intake fan .... so they were also getting a continuous air flow since they were at fan inlets .... fresh air was being pulled across them before entering the rads or the case front.

OTOH, the top of case and down by floor were in stagnant air zones with no air movement. No doubt the one sitting on top of case was affected by the top rad under it.

The key part in that regard is that after 10 pm the heat shuts off which takes the air circulation with it..... resulting in the natural floor to ceiling stratification (warmer at ceiling / colder at floor) ... when it hangs on the floor its also close to the cold tile floor which is above an unheated space. Right now with the heat on, we have heat coming outta the floor vents which rises to ceiling, pushes air across the ceilinga nd down on other side .... so a good mix.... until 10 smile.gif

Right now, using it as a case air temp sensor .....

Top Rad Water InTop Rad In = 25.3
Top Rad Water Out = 25.0

Bot Rad Water In = 25.1
Bot Rad Water Out = 24.8

Case Air = 24.9

That's with 2 front fans blowing in, 1 fan in rear blowing out....side fans not plugged in
911 Carrera
(20 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel w/ EK Supremacy Cooling Block - Clean P... Asus Maximus VI Formula 2 x Asus GTX 780 DCII w/ EK Full Cover Blocks a... Mushkin Red Line Ridgeback 2 x 8GB DDR302400 10... 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB (2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cach... Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blue Ray Writer 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45-420 + 1 x Alphacool ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
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2 x Reeven Six Eyes Fan Controller Windows 7 64 Bit Professional OEM ASUS VG248QE Black 23" 144 Hz Monitor Logitech G19s 920-004985 
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Seasonic X-1250 Phanteks Enthoo Primo Ultimate Chassis Asus RoG GX950 Laser Mouse  Logitech Z5500 
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911 Carrera
(20 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel w/ EK Supremacy Cooling Block - Clean P... Asus Maximus VI Formula 2 x Asus GTX 780 DCII w/ EK Full Cover Blocks a... Mushkin Red Line Ridgeback 2 x 8GB DDR302400 10... 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB (2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cach... Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blue Ray Writer 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45-420 + 1 x Alphacool ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
2 x Reeven Six Eyes Fan Controller Windows 7 64 Bit Professional OEM ASUS VG248QE Black 23" 144 Hz Monitor Logitech G19s 920-004985 
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Seasonic X-1250 Phanteks Enthoo Primo Ultimate Chassis Asus RoG GX950 Laser Mouse  Logitech Z5500 
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