Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Computer Cases › [Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners - Page 177

post #1761 of 18657
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisnyc75 View Post

Nice, that's quite a nice start! How do you plan on getting three 360 rads in there? One on top, one on bottom, obviously, but I can't figure out where you'd put a third 360?
only going with 2, just deciding which 2
post #1762 of 18657
This case is absolutely heavy. Lifting it feels like there's a couple of radiators and a loop present inside, but it's empty. Definitely close to my TJ-11 with a full loop inside.

Also, no group sig? tongue.gif

*
post #1763 of 18657
http://www.overclock.net/g/a/1077256/legacy-build-pc-overhaul/

There it is guys. My album of photos for my Enthoo build. I'm really happy with it, but let me know what you guys think! biggrin.gif
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 5820k MSI X99S SLI Plus 2x EVGA GeForce GTX 980 SC SLI Kingston HyperX Fury HX426C15FBK4/32 32GB (4x8G... 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Samsung 850 Pro 256GB Seagate Barracuda 3TB ST3000DM001 LG BH16NS40 16x Blu-Ray Writer EK Supremacy EVO Full Nickel, 2x EK-FC980 GTX A... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 280, Alphacool XT45 420 XSPC D5 Photon 170 pump/res combo 12x Phanteks PH-F140SP fans (7 white LED) An assortment of XSPC compression fittings & ro... 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8.1 Pro 64bit Acer Predator XB270HU Corsair Gaming Vengeance K70 RGB - Cherry MX Brown Corsair RM1000 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Phanteks Enthoo Primo White Mionix Naos 7000 Corsair MM300 Extended Size ASUS Xonar Essence STX II 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
Audioengine A5+ Audioengine S8 Sennheiser HD700 Rode NT-USB Microphone + PSA1 Boom Arm 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7 5820k MSI X99S SLI Plus 2x EVGA GeForce GTX 980 SC SLI Kingston HyperX Fury HX426C15FBK4/32 32GB (4x8G... 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
Samsung 850 Pro 256GB Seagate Barracuda 3TB ST3000DM001 LG BH16NS40 16x Blu-Ray Writer EK Supremacy EVO Full Nickel, 2x EK-FC980 GTX A... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 280, Alphacool XT45 420 XSPC D5 Photon 170 pump/res combo 12x Phanteks PH-F140SP fans (7 white LED) An assortment of XSPC compression fittings & ro... 
OSMonitorKeyboardPower
Windows 8.1 Pro 64bit Acer Predator XB270HU Corsair Gaming Vengeance K70 RGB - Cherry MX Brown Corsair RM1000 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Phanteks Enthoo Primo White Mionix Naos 7000 Corsair MM300 Extended Size ASUS Xonar Essence STX II 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
Audioengine A5+ Audioengine S8 Sennheiser HD700 Rode NT-USB Microphone + PSA1 Boom Arm 
  hide details  
Reply
post #1764 of 18657
Thread Starter 
Looks really nice COMBO2 ! Congrats! thumb.gif
post #1765 of 18657
Nice, but you should find a way to not cross your tubing would look a bit more managed without the crossing rolleyes.gif
evolv
(22 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4790k msi z97m GTX 1080 corsair vengeance pro 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
samsung evo  ek coolstream PE 240 ek coolstream PE 240 DDC pump 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
ek supremacy evo ek GTX 1080 full cover block  EK vardar F1 windows 10 pro 
MonitorMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Philips 40" 4K LED BDM4065UC/00 GW2750 GW2750 CM masterkeys TKL 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
corsair ax1200 phanteks enthoo evolv mATX razer naga qpad xxl 
AudioAudio
ASUS ROG xonar phoebus Sennheiser HD600 
  hide details  
Reply
evolv
(22 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4790k msi z97m GTX 1080 corsair vengeance pro 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
samsung evo  ek coolstream PE 240 ek coolstream PE 240 DDC pump 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
ek supremacy evo ek GTX 1080 full cover block  EK vardar F1 windows 10 pro 
MonitorMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Philips 40" 4K LED BDM4065UC/00 GW2750 GW2750 CM masterkeys TKL 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
corsair ax1200 phanteks enthoo evolv mATX razer naga qpad xxl 
AudioAudio
ASUS ROG xonar phoebus Sennheiser HD600 
  hide details  
Reply
post #1766 of 18657
I love the build. thumb.gif

The lights really do make that thing "pop".


Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxycon View Post

Nice, but you should find a way to not cross your tubing would look a bit more managed without the crossing rolleyes.gif

I agree.

Here is what I would suggest.


Edited by 47 Knucklehead - 12/5/13 at 6:28am
post #1767 of 18657
I've got to hand it to Phanteks not only is their first case one , if not the best quality I have seen, their customer service is also superb. Once I received my case 1 of the front door catch springs wouldn't hold the catch, so after an EMail to them, I had a responce within an hour, letting me no 2 replacement catches are on there way. Spot on service thumb.gif

I would like peoples views on rads. I have at present a 360 x 30mm up top, and a Monsta 420 in the bottom, both in push pull. They are cooling a pair of 7950's and an i5 4670k. I also have either a Monsta 240, or Monsta 280, knocking about. What I am thinking is too mount the 420 up front ( with a top front door mod of some sort, and remove drive bay centre plate ) and one of the other rads on the bottom, most likely the 280. That will give me the less of a gap between the front and bottom rad, 10 cm approx, which should be enough not to disrupt the bottom front fans air flow. Is it over kill ? The reason being is that I had to mod the front bays in order for the 3 x 140mm rad to fit in the bottom so I cut it in half and mounted a plate in its plate, but you can see under the plate, and there is a gap between the bottom rad and front fans that looks a bit fuggly, and a 3rd rad would solve that problem.



That was a pic before the strip down, I had 2 problems. Firstly after an overnight leak test i proceeded in connecting everything up nice and tidy only to discover something wasn't right. So I went through the usual fault finding and it was the molex cable on the fan splitter board. So I replaced the cable and although the pc fired up no fans, so out with the molex to fan reducers, yea power and fans. So I loaded all drivers and prog that I needed to start with and for about an hour all was good. So once again the job of cable manegement, my most hated job. After about an hour all finished side panels onand all seems good. Yep right, I noticed that my temps were slowly going up. So off with the panels again. I noticed I couldn't here that low hum the D5 gives off, Oh bugger mad.gif my sodding pump had failed. I have no idea what had gone wrong it was fine one second and not the next. My worst problem is it is only 6 months old and I can't RMA the thing I I cut off the tacho cable. With Christmas being so close no pennies to buy another till after the jolly season. BAH HUMBUG..............
post #1768 of 18657
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulyoung View Post



That was a pic before the strip down, I had 2 problems. Firstly after an overnight leak test i proceeded in connecting everything up nice and tidy only to discover something wasn't right. So I went through the usual fault finding and it was the molex cable on the fan splitter board. So I replaced the cable and although the pc fired up no fans, so out with the molex to fan reducers, yea power and fans. So I loaded all drivers and prog that I needed to start with and for about an hour all was good. So once again the job of cable manegement, my most hated job. After about an hour all finished side panels onand all seems good. Yep right, I noticed that my temps were slowly going up. So off with the panels again. I noticed I couldn't here that low hum the D5 gives off, Oh bugger mad.gif my sodding pump had failed. I have no idea what had gone wrong it was fine one second and not the next. My worst problem is it is only 6 months old and I can't RMA the thing I I cut off the tacho cable. With Christmas being so close no pennies to buy another till after the jolly season. BAH HUMBUG..............

You know that's upside-down, right? lol Interesting choice, why?

*edit: nevermind, I just realized it's not that it's upside-down, you actually mod'ed the panel and moved the "Phanteks" logo to the top. I wasn't quite sure what I was looking at at first. lol Still, interesting choice, I like it. smile.gif
Edited by chrisnyc75 - 12/5/13 at 7:23am
post #1769 of 18657
Very nice build Paul.

I love how you modded the drive bay cover. I really haven't looked into doing something like that, but now that I see that it is possible, I might look into that more closely. thumb.gif

When you cut the panel, and it no longer goes all the way down to the base anymore, did the case lose major structural integrity? That was the one think I like about this case, it doesn't seem to "wrack" at all and is very solid. I wonder if doing that mod will make it more "flimsy".


As far as radiators go, for what you have now, that should be plenty. Ignoring the fact that you have a Monsta (80mm thick) rad and a regular 30mm rad, the fact that you have 6 120mm equivalent worth of radiator, in push/pull no less, is more than enough. As a rule of thumb, you really only need 1 120mm worth of radiator per device being cooled (CPU or video car) PLUS 1 120mm worth of radiator for a buffer. So with your CPU and 2 video cards, all you really need is 4 120mm worth of radiator (1 CPU + 2 GPU + 1 buffer), and you have 6.

Radiator thickness is another issue of which I've changed my mind about over time. I used to use the thickest radiators I could stuff in the case ... including the Monsta 360. But honestly, after playing with them first hand, and after people like Martin has done many reviews of them, radiator thickness really isn't as important as linear surface area and the fans you use. In short, it is better to have a 30mm 480 with 8 fans than an 80mm (or even 60mm) 360 with 6 fans.

I hope that helped.
post #1770 of 18657
I love how you modded the drive bay cover. I really haven't looked into doing something like that, but now that I see that it is possible, I might look into that more closely. thumb.gif

When you cut the panel, and it no longer goes all the way down to the base anymore, did the case lose major structural integrity? That was the one think I like about this case, it doesn't seem to "wrack" at all and is very solid. I wonder if doing that mod will make it more "flimsy".


Cheers mate, as far as structural integrity goes the case is fine, the only problem was I did want to just cut of what I needed and as soon as the far left screw that connects the panel to the case was removed, the panel warped, that's why the choice of e replacement panel.

I see what your saying about rads, I was shocked on how well the Alphacool ST30 360 performed in Martins tests. I've got so many monsta's as I usually mount rads up front and i think a slim rad looks out of place. Besides I can run all my fans on 5v and not have any temp increase.

When I replace my pump, I'm going for the Koolance PMP500 again, It performs so much better than the D5 from my experience. So I can always mount it between the front and bottom rad. It is such a sweet looking pump, it would be a shame to hide it awy out of sight...
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Computer Cases
Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Computer Cases › [Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners