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[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners - Page 235

post #2341 of 19206
Looks great. What LEDs are you using?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liqu1dShadow View Post

So lights in, water in, up and running, still work to do, but I'm liking the payoff for the 20+ hours of tube work




still got to tidy the cables, replace the temp sensor I broke, fit the PCI slot blanks, clean the glass window and hide some wiring smile.gif

Edited by wesnerer - 1/5/14 at 4:24pm
post #2342 of 19206
Quote:
Originally Posted by wesnerer View Post

Looks great. What LEDs are you using?

Thanks, thumb.gif

Phobia RGB with Remote + 3 strips of RGB LED's
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Red Dwarf
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post #2343 of 19206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverickbp View Post

I went a bit pricey with my bleed port in the base of my system but I have a question concerning how you filled yours. I've seen people fill using the reservoir using a syringe or whatever so considered doing the same but would like to know how you went about filling yours since we have the same rads? I "think" I remember seeing pictures of you using a funnel with a big tube but can't remember. How did you fill yours and how did you make sure to not spill or know when you were full since you can't see through the rad? I've seen some primochill funnels with G 1/4 adapter that seemed pretty cool and a possibility.

Also since you're using the top as a bleed port how are you going about it since it's at the top of your system? Are you tilting your system completely on it's side? I probably should've asked first and saved myself like $35 on my bleed setup but it is a pretty sweet idea I borrowed from here I have to admit.

I used a 12" acrylic riser to a valve then a 6" riser to a funnel.....(funnel missing from pic)..... also a bleed valve on res. I used a AC/DC adapter to power up the pump only.

1. I loosened the top plug on the res to let air out and filled the funnel and filled about 1.7 liters
2. Filled 90% of the loop volume \
3. Closed both valves, ran pump....res dropped.
4. Opened riser valve, filled tube and funnel; cracked res valve to allow air to escape shutting valve just before water level in riser tube dropped below bottom of riser
5. Rinse and repeats step 4 cupla times.

When I filled the loop with DW, I had to tilt case a bit to get air bubble outta CPU block .... when refilled with Mayhems pastel mix, this step wasn't required. Also small bubbles remained in system for a few days w/ DW ... when refilled w/ Mayhems mix, took maybe an hour. During 1st 48 hours, I ran w/ riser in place and tube filled with liquid to just below shut off valve and case tilted with book under back end to make bleed point highest point. With DW, level dropped abit as air replaced liquid in tune..... with the Mayhems, it hardly dropped. Remainder of fluid was then bled out into res as in step 4.


Quote:
Originally Posted by owcraftsman View Post



No I have 8x F140SP and thought you had the same. Not sure what AC140/s or TC120/s are? For me, 5x are the LED version all connected to the controller +12v aux. power. 6x are attached to UT60 420mm top mounted radiator and I have removed the micro filter since the 6x rad fans exhaust. Currently I do not use the MSI fan software and use the default curve of the F1.5 bios on a MSI Z87 G45 Gamer which I see no need to make adjustments to. My pump is a D5 vario running static high speed or avg 4780 rpm which indicates max flow rate for my loop.

I have 10 fans but only 5 on the rads.... 3 top rad, 2 bottom rad, 2 front case, 2 side case, 1 rear case.

AC140 - Alphacool 140mm wide rad .... other designation was for other brand 120 you have

I found BIOS control inadequate ...., Fan Xpert provided much better and accurate control


Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre3400 View Post

Thank you, now to find them in Europe, and in stock!

I should be getting enough cooling from 1x 480 Monsta in push/pull and 1x 420 XT45 in push/pull??

Should i consider the 240 on the side with push/pull or would just be a waist of money?


quote name="owcraftsman" url="/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/2290#post_21506595"]

I have twin 780s OC'd 25% and a 4700k at 4.6 .... with a XT45-420 + UT60-280, I have a delta T of 8.4C at 1200 rpm under Furmark in push only with filters removed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bond32 View Post

Just got in two more phanteks fans. Got the ones with the LED's... Just wanted to chime in and say how awesome these are. Absolutely love the quality of every aspect of them. I know it's been mentioned before, but they have rubber on the edges where the included case fans do not. Doesn't make any difference to me, I still like them.

Only issue is if ya mix the two together....results in wobbly rad mount as pads add 2mm of thickness. Ya can get pads from Phanteks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Anarchy2703 View Post

Hi guys,

I have decided to build my rig and then watercool it straight away. I will be cooling a 4670k and an Asus 780. I plan to add another 780 later down the line. My focus right now is silence as I only game at 1080p and will get a 1600p monitor soon. My question is, do you think a 60mm 420 rad and a 60mm 280 rad will sufficiently cool that cpu and eventually two 780s?

Check my sig smile.gif

Enthoo case with XT45-420 on top - UT60-280 on bottom w/ two 780's OC'd 25+% and 4770k at 4.6 Ghz .... at full speed of phanteks fans, have 8.4C delta T .... COU temp under RoG RealBench is 74C....GPU temps under Furmark are 39C .... I turn down fans and run 450 - 862 for daily usage.

And yes, 420 fits on top suggest pull forward and inch so ya can access the top rad ports on ST45 and 280 does fit in bottom ...at least alphacool does....420 has more cooling / surface area than a 480 and gives ya access to those ports for filling / bleeding...Alphacool's outperform the competition according to martins testing at 1000-2200 rpmand also have screw protector plate and all copper construction.

UT60 on top **may** result in fit issues if have tall heatsinks or ya want access to ya 8 pin EPS cable.

The Phanteks fans are **top dog** outperforming the GTs , SP120s and AF120s

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html


Quote:
Originally Posted by EliteReplay View Post

is it possible to put a Alphacool UT60 on the top with Push/Pull and 140mm fans?

Most likely, see above tho


Quote:
Originally Posted by EliteReplay View Post

this is too tight... would the alphacool XT45 45MM would fit better right?

Look at it this way ....the XT45-420 gives ya 250 watts of cooling with Phanteks fans, the UT60-420 gives ya 256..... for me the hassle of getting to my 8 pin EPS plug and the MPCIE module on the MV6 wasn't worth 6 watts ..... it did miss the MoBo heat sink by 2mm tho.
Edited by JackNaylorPE - 1/6/14 at 8:27am
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post #2344 of 19206
Another thing guys- what type of metal do you think the fan grill on the front of the case is? I assume steel. I'd like to paint it red. What type of primer should I use and then what paint. Or should I just take it to a spray shop and get it done properly? I assume some sort of self etching primer is needed?
post #2345 of 19206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anarchy2703 View Post

Another thing guys- what type of metal do you think the fan grill on the front of the case is? I assume steel. I'd like to paint it red. What type of primer should I use and then what paint. Or should I just take it to a spray shop and get it done properly? I assume some sort of self etching primer is needed?

I actually think its aluminium, as some of the metal is exposed in the brushed grains, and steel would rust like crazy
post #2346 of 19206
Yeah it's brushed aluminum, anodized black.
No idea what the best way to go about painting it would be.
You could strip the anodizing and anodize it yourself another color, or find a shop to do it.
post #2347 of 19206
Thread Starter 
jassilamba had his apart and changed the front center area for a grill.
ehume took his grill out.
post #2348 of 19206
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hereisphilly View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anarchy2703 View Post

Another thing guys- what type of metal do you think the fan grill on the front of the case is? I assume steel. I'd like to paint it red. What type of primer should I use and then what paint. Or should I just take it to a spray shop and get it done properly? I assume some sort of self etching primer is needed?

I actually think its aluminium, as some of the metal is exposed in the brushed grains, and steel would rust like crazy


Unless I don't understand your question it's steel. To be clear The solid surface and face plate center is brushed aluminum but the grill or perforated metal that allows the front panel to breath is steel. I confirmed this with a magnet test. I assume you'd want to paint the perforated steel red for an accent color to the black facade which would look quit nice correct me if I'm wrong. If I were doing it I wouldn't use a primer and would buy some rustoleum spray paint. Prep the surface by making sure it free of any oil dust dirt etc. I like using spray degreaser commonly found at auto parts stores for metal prep. Rinse and wipe clean when finished then allow to completely dry before painting. Even this may be overkill but hey it's your call. Only if painted metal is rusted which would require sanding to prep it and in turn exposes bare metal would you need a primer. Some peeps aren't good with a spray can but if you are even a little inclined a bit of practice on a scrap piece should give you the confidence to get the job done. Most common mistakes are over spray which causes drips. Best advice spray lightly several coats allowing each coat to dry before proceeding to the next. Spray at all angles and directions both sides. At first it will be uneven by the third coat it will be looking sweet. Otherwise it never hurts to have a professional do it. GL 

 


Edited by owcraftsman - 1/6/14 at 4:11pm
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post #2349 of 19206
Quote:
Originally Posted by owcraftsman View Post


Unless I don't understand your question it's steel. To be clear The solid surface and face plate center is brushed aluminum but the grill or perforated metal that allows the front panel to breath is steel. I confirmed this with a magnet test. I assume you'd want to paint the perforated steel red for an accent color to the black facade which would look quit nice correct me if I'm wrong. If I were doing it I wouldn't use a primer and would buy some rustoleum spray paint. Prep the surface by making sure it free of any oil dust dirt etc. I like using spray degreaser commonly found at auto parts stores for metal prep. Rinse and wipe clean when finished then allow to completely dry before painting. Even this may be overkill but hey it's your call. Only if painted metal is rusted which would require sanding to prep it and in turn exposes bare metal would you need a primer. Some peeps aren't good with a spray can but if you are even a little inclined a bit of practice on a scrap piece should give you the confidence to get the job done. Most common mistakes are over spray which causes drips. Best advice spray lightly several coats allowing each coat to dry before proceeding to the next. Spray at all angles and directions both sides. At first it will be uneven by the third coat it will be looking sweet. Otherwise it never hurts to have a professional do it. GL 



Yes. I mean the bit behind the aluminium. I'll just get a quote from a professional and see if I can haggle him down a bit wink.gif
post #2350 of 19206
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anarchy2703 View Post

Yes. I mean the bit behind the aluminium. I'll just get a quote from a professional and see if I can haggle him down a bit wink.gif
Really it's not hard to do.
Practice spraying on something else to get the feel of spraying. Always start moving before you start spraying. Alwasy spray is nice smooth passes.
Scuff it with scotch-brite, wipe it with pure alcohol, set it up on something and start spraying on light coats. Change the angle/side you spray from each coat.
Here's a two part tutorial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cR4ivpqTYhU
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