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[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners - Page 241

post #2401 of 18423
I have a quick question, can I retain the bottom drive cage by moving it closer to the front fans and use a 360 radiator in the bottom of the case?
KUL
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KUL
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MILD
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Intel 330 180GB Custom Loop W7 Ultimate Dell U3011 
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G.SKILL F3-12800CL10Q-32GBZL Intel 330 180GB Intel 330 180GB OCZ Vertex II 60GB 
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post #2402 of 18423
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
This may be true on the RIVEBE but I don't see the relevance in the context of the M6F specific post. I noted three but there are actually six issues / potential issues with an M6F and any width UT60 in P/P





1. The context of the poster's remark was visual ..... "not wanting to cover up the pretty M6F MoBo".... the only relevant dimension "visually" is thickness.... you may be able to fit the thicker rad in there but you won't be able to "see" anything behind it. I'm measuring about 29 mm from the bottom of the XT45 to the Heat Sink ... with the 27mm fan, it "misses" blocking the view of the Top of the MoBo by 2mm. Add the 15mm and the top 13mm of the MoBo is blocked.

2. Forgot to mention this one, but the M6F is equipped with a diagnostic digital LCD that displays the error or Q-Codes. The bottom of this display is 1.5" (38mm) below my XT45..... add the pull fan (27mm) and the extra thickness of the UT60 and you are at 42mm. So access to a key feature is taken from you with a UT60 .... yes it fits, both 140mm and 120mm will fit, but again "visually, you will not be able to "see" the diagnostic panel. Start button gets difficult perhaps but shud be easy enough to press if ya gotta.

3. The plug for the EPS cable is as inaccessible with the 120mm width rads as it is with the 140mm. Look at the pic above which shows the cable clearing the rad but once ya put the fans on, how would you access the plug at the end of it. The extra 10mm you get from using a smaller rad is not enough for you to slip a hand behind it and remove / replace the EPS cable plug.

4. If when ya built it ya decided ya didn't need wireless ..... or if after ya built it, ya found out that having both wireless and wired "active" at the same time doesn't work and ya want to take it out, you can''t get ya hand in there to install / uninstall the unit.

5. It's obvious that the RAM fits but if ya wanted to re-seat, by using the levers, it's tough access when in the up position..... of course you can press in place and whereas I always prefer to do both tro minimize warping, the N6F backplate should help here.

6. I think it will fit once done but installing / uninstalling ya fittings / tubing for the MoBo VRM block becomes difficult with the thicker rad
.

Yes, any time you want to have an overhanging rad installation you will be covering up the top of the board, so by all means install your mobo & plug in the cables and the ram and such first, and if you need to get to those things then you might well even have to remove the rad first. None of that is a big deal imho if you want to put in a thicker rad.

But it is a big deal imho to keep pointing out how tight it was by some-such specific milimeters, and even showing pictures of it sometimes, and every time it seems you fail to mention it's a 140-series rad you are talking about. I know this is the third time at least I've felt compelled afterward to point that out, not for any one poster or any specific mobo, but for everyone else coming here looking for a source of information as to what fits or not. I have to believe at this point you are trying to be intentionally misleading whenever you bring it up.
post #2403 of 18423
Hey guys I'm just looking through my new case that arrived today, and I noticed that the front-fan-filter thing (the one made from aluminum & metal that comes off), only locks with one of the two locking mechanisms. Is this how it is supposed to be or are yours different?

I've recorded this video trying to illustrate the issue: http://youtu.be/B8VxMvTPRTA

Thanks : )
post #2404 of 18423
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maldark View Post

Hey guys I'm just looking through my new case that arrived today, and I noticed that the front-fan-filter thing (the one made from aluminum & metal that comes off), only locks with one of the two locking mechanisms. Is this how it is supposed to be or are yours different?

I've recorded this video trying to illustrate the issue: http://youtu.be/B8VxMvTPRTA

Thanks : )

Mine is the same thumb.gif
Primo
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Primo
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post #2405 of 18423
Quote:
Originally Posted by OutlawII View Post

Mine is the same thumb.gif

Glad to hear that, didn't want to have to RMA it already tongue.gif

Thank you : )

Oh and also, apparently I received a rev 2 I think? The dust filter is not with screws anymore : )
post #2406 of 18423
Howdy y'all. My Primo will be arriving in a few days. I had a new NZXT Switch 810, which is great case, but the Primo has so much more. The heart of the build is a Asus Maximus VI Formula, with 16GB of G.Skill 2166, a 4770k and a pair of 780s (or maybe the next gen, I am not in a hurry). I will be using the CrossChill loop. I would like to use the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 420 up top in a push/pull. Will there be any issue the push fans and the VRM mosfet block of this mobo?
post #2407 of 18423
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Redtide View Post

Howdy y'all. My Primo will be arriving in a few days. I had a new NZXT Switch 810, which is great case, but the Primo has so much more. The heart of the build is a Asus Maximus VI Formula, with 16GB of G.Skill 2166, a 4770k and a pair of 780s (or maybe the next gen, I am not in a hurry). I will be using the CrossChill loop. I would like to use the Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 420 up top in a push/pull. Will there be any issue the push fans and the VRM mosfet block of this mobo?
Please scroll back and read that question has been answered so many times it hurts to see it asked again. Yes it works No issues anything over 45mm rads do becomes an issue for some.
Luxe 1
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Enthoo Primo
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Phanteks Enthoo Luxe PH-ES614L  Func MS-3 rev2 Cooler Master Speed RX Creative Sound Blaster Zx 116dB PCIe Gaming Sou... 
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EK-FC R9-290X backplate Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150 ... Bitspower D5 MOD TOP (Black "S" Model) PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 10ft Tubing - 1/2in. ID ... 
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Luxe 1
(33 items)
 
Enthoo Primo
(28 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 6700k MSI Z170A G7 GTX 1080Ti FE G.SKILL 32GB (4 x 8GB) Ripjaws V Series DDR4 PC... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Samsung 950 Pro M.2 WDC WD1003FZEX-00MK2A0 Seagate Backup+ Desk SCSI Disk Device asus bc-12b1st 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC Raystorm Pro Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm radiator  Monsoon Series Two D5 Premium Dual Bay Reservoi... Phanteks PH-F140SP Case Fan 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Aquacomputer backplate for kryographics Pascal ... corsair sp120 high performance led tygon plasticizer free kryographics Pascal for NVIDIA TITAN X and GTX ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Mayhem Pastel White UV Monsoon center compression fittings  Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 280mm radiator  Windows 10 Pro x64 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
BenQ BL3200PT CAD Professional Monitor  Asus PB278Q (Extended) Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB Mechanical Gaming Ke... CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12... 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Phanteks Enthoo Luxe PH-ES614L  Func MS-3 rev2 Cooler Master Speed RX Creative Sound Blaster Zx 116dB PCIe Gaming Sou... 
AudioAudioOtherOther
Logitech Z906 5.1 Surround Sound Speaker System... HyperX KHX-H3CLW Cloud Gaming Headset - White  Darkside dimable LED strips  Modsmart Kobra Cables 
Other
EVGA PowerLink 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 4790k @ 4.8 MSI Z97 Gaming 7  Saphire R9 290x (hynix) Saphire R9 290x (Hynix) 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
GSkill Ripjaws Z F3-2400C10D-8GZH 2x Samsung 850 Pro Raid-0  AMD RAMDisk WD1001FALS (Data/Backup) 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Asus BC-12B1ST BlueRay Custom Water Cooled Windows 10 Pro x64 Asus PG279Q 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Asus PG278Q Corsair K70 EVGA 1000w G2 Phanteks Enthoo Primo 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
FUNC MS-3 rev2  XTRAC PADS Ripper Optical Mouse pad Kingston HyperX Cloud II  Creative Sound Blaster Z PCIe 116dB SNR Gaming ... 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 420mm EK Supremacy EVO Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 360 Radiator EK-FC R9-290X Waterblock - Nickel Acetal (Rev.2.0) 
OtherOtherOtherOther
EK-FC R9-290X backplate Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150 ... Bitspower D5 MOD TOP (Black "S" Model) PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 10ft Tubing - 1/2in. ID ... 
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post #2408 of 18423
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liqu1dShadow View Post

I have 3 strips, 2 in the main comp, 60cm each and a 30 cm in the mini window, full RGB so I can pick my colours smile.gif

I like the darkening effect though as it gives the equipment more of an edge to it, rather than washed out

Got a full build log here if you haven't seen, some better shots of it
http://www.overclock.net/t/1453740/build-log-red-dwarf-ii-enthoo-primo-photo-heavy/60#post_21531146

Where exactly did you put the LED strips?
post #2409 of 18423
Quote:
Originally Posted by owcraftsman View Post

Please scroll back and read that question has been answered so many times it hurts to see it asked again. Yes it works No issues anything over 45mm rads do becomes an issue for some.

Musta missed it reference to this specific mobo. The OEM mosfet waterblock on this mobo is higher than most aftermarket mosfet waterblocks, thus my query. I do truly appreciate your enduring the pain once more.
post #2410 of 18423
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maldark View Post

Hey guys I'm just looking through my new case that arrived today, and I noticed that the front-fan-filter thing (the one made from aluminum & metal that comes off), only locks with one of the two locking mechanisms. Is this how it is supposed to be or are yours different?

I've recorded this video trying to illustrate the issue: http://youtu.be/B8VxMvTPRTA

Thanks : )

Contact Phanteks support and get a replacement latching mechanism sent. Had to get replacements for both of mine.

FWIW, I figured out the hard way that trying to remove the whole front panel of the case (by pulling at the bottom) without first removing the filter cover from it destroys those little push-click latches. When the front of the case pops free, the filter cover if you didn't remove it first will pop right out, and those latches get stripped out easily when the cover gets pulled out like that without being pushed in first.

Judging by how many others have also had to get replacement push-click latches, they either have done the same as me or I suspect the same type of damage to them also happens during shipping sometimes.
Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 1/8/14 at 11:38am
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