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[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners - Page 256

post #2551 of 18857
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maldark View Post

Thank you for your input, but my 120mm as well as my 240mm ST30 only has two ports each on the top of it :/

There seems to be a lot of this going around of late ..... in another thread, I was told that the XT45 didn't have drain port on the other side .... but my XT45does.


Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

Anybody know what this connector is called and what it's technical name / part number is?


It's the connector on the LED light strip. Plug end on bottom of image is the LED end.

Will put it in our FAQ as once I know exactly what it is. That way we can make light strips with new plug. thumb.gif


I bought them .... I only bought one .... JST Connector from China .... cost $2.50 delivers ..... a pack of $100 is $10 smile.gif

Enthoo LED PCB Connector Factop 2Pin Male Female Waterproof JST Wire LED Light Strips Connector Cable Lamp
http://www.amazon.com/Factop-Female-Waterproof-Strips-Connector/dp/B00FWJAMBG/ref=sr_1_34?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1383590899&sr
Edited by JackNaylorPE - 1/19/14 at 10:54am
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post #2552 of 18857
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre3400 View Post

Update on my Primo





why isnt that motherboard in the loop? all you need to do is screw in fittings right?
post #2553 of 18857
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post

I bought them .... I only bought one .... JST Connector from China .... cost $2.50 delivers ..... a pack of $100 is $10 smile.gif

Enthoo LED PCB Connector Factop 2Pin Male Female Waterproof JST Wire LED Light Strips Connector Cable Lamp
http://www.amazon.com/Factop-Female-Waterproof-Strips-Connector/dp/B00FWJAMBG/ref=sr_1_34?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1383590899&sr
Interesting.. Amazon link is not the same connector as in my EP.


This is what the LED power connector looks like in my case. Power is on the female side, not the usual male side as used on fans.
post #2554 of 18857
Quote:
Originally Posted by THC Butterz View Post

why isnt that motherboard in the loop? all you need to do is screw in fittings right?

That is indeed true, but the stock block is made of aluminium, which corrodes copper, and all my blocks and rads are copper, im not adding it in my loop.

Is it cover with somthing that they say makes them safe to use in the loop with copper, but i dont even want to risk it. Im saving up to get EK blocks. wink.gif
post #2555 of 18857
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maldark View Post

Hey again guys! I've just realized I was missing some fittings to get my drain loop set up so I've paused my "moving" into the new case : )

I have, however, not figured out entirely how I wish to set up my loop. I have an Alphacool 3way adapter, a bitspower valve as well as a set of bitspower quickdisconnects. What I'm thinking of doing is something along the lines of this:




But would it work? The thought is that when I wish to drain it, I simply connect the quickdisconnect male to the loop and turn the valve so that the water starts running in to the quickdisconnect tube.

Thanks guys : )

EDIT: I forgot the add the tubing to the male part of the QD, but point is that i'll have a tube there so that I can point it out of the case in a bowl or something smile.gif

I'm sorry for bumping, but as I am going to assemble the rig tomorrow, I'd very much like your view on this^
post #2556 of 18857
I just went to fit this in the bottom, but, It won't go it's too wide by 2 or 3 mm.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcqupo3xbl.html


If I get a different rad will I still have the same issue, I mean is this one just a fluke and soldered a little big. or should I just go to a different manufacture
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post #2557 of 18857
Quote:
Originally Posted by simsim44 View Post

I just went to fit this in the bottom, but, It won't go it's too wide by 2 or 3 mm.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcqupo3xbl.html


If I get a different rad will I still have the same issue, I mean is this one just a fluke and soldered a little big. or should I just go to a different manufacture


I have a monsta 360 in the bottom of mine it's 124mm Wide and fits w/maybe 1 or 2 mm to spare but not enough for the 128mm width of that rad sadly.

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post #2558 of 18857
Quote:
Originally Posted by owcraftsman View Post


I have a monsta 360 in the bottom of mine it's 124mm Wide and fits w/maybe 1 or 2 mm to spare but not enough for the 128mm width of that rad sadly.


yea it's more like 129, 129.5, more than the case will allow, damnit man!... oh well I was trying to keep the cooling dollars down to a minimum, as I spent a ton on everything else lol.
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post #2559 of 18857

The Alphacool NexXxos UT60 is a top performing rad reasonably priced and will definitely fit at $99 it's actually a good value. Sell the one you have to help pay for it. I wouldn't go with anything less in that space. The monsta is overkill really but I got a good deal on a used one which is another good alternative you might consider. 

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1801270&highlight=360+radiator (121mm wide) GL

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Mayhem Pastel White UV Monsoon center compression fittings  Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 280mm radiator  Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm radiator  
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post #2560 of 18857
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maldark View Post

I'm sorry for bumping, but as I am going to assemble the rig tomorrow, I'd very much like your view on this^
Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

Interesting.. Amazon link is not the same connector as in my EP.


This is what the LED power connector looks like in my case. Power is on the female side, not the usual male side as used on fans.

It works...plugs right in. In order for a cnnector to work, doesn't it have to have power and gtound on both ends ?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Pierre3400 View Post

That is indeed true, but the stock block is made of aluminium, which corrodes copper, and all my blocks and rads are copper, im not adding it in my loop.

Is it cover with somthing that they say makes them safe to use in the loop with copper, but i dont even want to risk it. Im saving up to get EK blocks. wink.gif


1. I am sorry but that is pure FUD and actually scientifically impossible. Aluminum is the less noble of the 2 metals ..... in the presence of copper and bare aluminum, aluminum will experience galvanic corrosion....electrons will flow from the aluminum to the copper, thereby resulting in corrosion to the aluminum..... the aluminum oxides will be drawn to the copper and if present can simply be cleaned to "brand new" condition.

2. The aluminum would act as a sacrificial anode (see wikipedia) much like the zinc on an outboard motor.... the reason they call it "sacrificial" is that the zinc / aluminum as the less noble metal sacrifices itself and thereby provides galvanic protection to the copper.....in other words the cooper is actually protected from corrosion due to the presence of aluminum.

3. Galvanic corrosion requires one of two things to be occur.

a) The two metals must be in contact (that condition does not exist)
b) The must be an electrolyte ..... Distilled water is not an electrolyte so that condition does not exist. Now it is possible over time that ions could be introduced to the loop via shedding of all the metals.... but if you are using a corrosion inhibitor, again, this condition would be non existent.

4. Anodized aluminum has superior corrosion resistance. That is why it is so often used in the marine industry on boats. I have been using anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments for over 25 years with only 1 instance of corrosion.... when some numbskull substituted SS bolts for the aluminum ones that came with the product....and not only did he create direct contact of dissimilar metals, he also over torqued them cracking both the anodized surface and deforming the plate.

5. Anodizing creates a very hard surface, you would have to put a concerted effort with a sharp pointie hard metal thing to scratch deep enough thru it to cause a concern.

6. Asus warrants the aluminum block, if it corrodes, they have to replace it .... Gigabyte is also using AA blocks on the Sniper.....and they will give you a new board if it corrodes...... no they won't replace anything else cause, again, if ya took em to court, they'd parade a list of expert witnesses who will testify that it is scientifically impossible. Do ya really think that these companies would risk replacing these $300 and up boards without thoroughly thinking this thru and testing it ?

7. You have more to fear from galvanic corrosion between the brass and copper in ya Rad ..... that *is* direct metal to metal contact.... or from the EK nickel deplating* then ya do the an anodized aluminum block. * NOTE: The problem with EK blocks is well known, was indentified quickly and promptly corrected by EK..... still a few get thru now and then and EK has been very 'stand up" and replaced every one of them. It would in now way prevent my from buying an EK block (I have 3 of them in my siggie) but I worry less about the anodized aluminum in the MoBo block then I do about the Ek block. But it happens.

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/59210#post_21617652

8. Most people when they repeat this false rumor use the thread right here in OCN that depicts the story of plain aluminum and copper. They point to the pics and say "look at all that corrosion" .... but what they haven't done is :

a) Recognize the aluminum and anodized aluminum are two different things

b) Read the actual text with the pics where it says ..... all the aluminum oxides that were floating around in the loop from the copper corroding wound up clogging up my copper water block...... but it cleaned right off and when done was as good as new.

In short, the laws of physics and chemistry would have to be suspended for any corrosion of copper blocks to occur. The chance of copper blocks corroding in the presence of aluminum is smaller not larger when aluminum is present. Let me apologize if my response came across as harsh but I think blondie here had a role in this rumor becoming so prevalent. smile.gif

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmx4twCK3_I

I have posted similar responses no less than 2 dozen times and in each case the answer was "I read it on the internet".... many even provide links to the opost which links to a post and the only documented one so far is the one here that shows the copper block was "as good as new".


Quote:
Originally Posted by Maldark View Post

I'm sorry for bumping, but as I am going to assemble the rig tomorrow, I'd very much like your view on this^

I'm sorry, gave ya my input which prolly was mirrored by others so they didn't repeat .... did ya have another question ?
Edited by JackNaylorPE - 1/19/14 at 10:01pm
911 Carrera
(20 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel w/ EK Supremacy Cooling Block - Clean P... Asus Maximus VI Formula 2 x Asus GTX 780 DCII w/ EK Full Cover Blocks a... Mushkin Red Line Ridgeback 2 x 8GB DDR302400 10... 
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2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB (2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cach... Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blue Ray Writer 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45-420 + 1 x Alphacool ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
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Seasonic X-1250 Phanteks Enthoo Primo Ultimate Chassis Asus RoG GX950 Laser Mouse  Logitech Z5500 
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911 Carrera
(20 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel w/ EK Supremacy Cooling Block - Clean P... Asus Maximus VI Formula 2 x Asus GTX 780 DCII w/ EK Full Cover Blocks a... Mushkin Red Line Ridgeback 2 x 8GB DDR302400 10... 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB (2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cach... Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blue Ray Writer 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45-420 + 1 x Alphacool ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
2 x Reeven Six Eyes Fan Controller Windows 7 64 Bit Professional OEM ASUS VG248QE Black 23" 144 Hz Monitor Logitech G19s 920-004985 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Seasonic X-1250 Phanteks Enthoo Primo Ultimate Chassis Asus RoG GX950 Laser Mouse  Logitech Z5500 
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