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[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners - Page 257

post #2561 of 19376
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post


It works...plugs right in. In order for a cnnector to work, doesn't it have to have power and gtound on both ends ?
1. I am sorry but that is pure FUD and actually scientifically impossible. Aluminum is the less noble of the 2 metals ..... in the presence of copper and bare aluminum, aluminum will experience galvanic corrosion....electrons will flow from the aluminum to the copper, thereby resulting in corrosion to the aluminum..... the aluminum oxides will be drawn to the copper and if present can simply be cleaned to "brand new" condition.

2. The aluminum would act as a sacrificial anode (see wikipedia) much like the zinc on an outboard motor.... the reason they call it "sacrificial" is that the zinc / aluminum as the less noble metal sacrifices itself and thereby provides galvanic protection to the copper.....in other words the cooper is actually protected from corrosion due to the presence of aluminum.

3. Galvanic corrosion requires one of two things to be occur.

a) The two metals must be in contact (that condition does not exist)
b) The must be an electrolyte ..... Distilled water is not an electrolyte so that condition does not exist. Now it is possible over time that ions could be introduced to the loop via shedding of all the metals.... but if you are using a corrosion inhibitor, again, this condition would be non existent.

4. Anodized aluminum has superior corrosion resistance. That is why it is so often used in the marine industry on boats. I have been using anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments for over 25 years with only 1 instance of corrosion.... when some numbskull substituted SS bolts for the aluminum ones that came with the product....and not only did he create direct contact of dissimilar metals, he also over torqued them cracking both the anodized surface and deforming the plate.

5. Anodizing creates a very hard surface, you would have to put a concerted effort with a sharp pointie hard metal thing to scratch deep enough thru it to cause a concern.

6. Asus warrants the aluminum block, if it corrodes, they have to replace it .... Gigabyte is also using AA blocks on the Sniper.....and they will give you a new board if it corrodes...... no they won't replace anything else cause, again, if ya took em to court, they'd parade a list of expert witnesses who will testify that it is scientifically impossible. Do ya really think that these companies would risk replacing these $300 and up boards without thoroughly thinking this thru and testing it ?

7. You have more to fear from galvanic corrosion between the brass and copper in ya Rad ..... that *is* direct metal to metal contact.... or from the EK nickel deplating* then ya do the an anodized aluminum block. * NOTE: The problem with EK blocks is well known, was indentified quickly and promptly corrected by EK..... still a few get thru now and then and EK has been very 'stand up" and replaced every one of them. It would in now way prevent my from buying an EK block (I have 3 of them in my siggie) but I worry less about the anodized aluminum in the MoBo block then I do about the Ek block. But it happens.

http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/59210#post_21617652

8. Most people when they repeat this false rumor use the thread right here in OCN that depicts the story of plain aluminum and copper. They point to the pics and say "look at all that corrosion" .... but what they haven't done is :

a) Recognize the aluminum and anodized aluminum are two different things

b) Read the actual text with the pics where it says ..... all the aluminum oxides that were floating around in the loop from the copper corroding wound up clogging up my copper water block...... but it cleaned right off and when done was as good as new.

In short, the laws of physics and chemistry would have to be suspended for any corrosion of copper blocks to occur. The chance of copper blocks corroding in the presence of aluminum is smaller not larger when aluminum is present. Let me apologize if my response came across as harsh but I think blondie here had a role in this rumor becoming so prevalent. smile.gif

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmx4twCK3_I

I have posted similar responses no less than 2 dozen times and in each case the answer was "I read it on the internet".... many even provide links to the opost which links to a post and the only documented one so far is the one here that shows the copper block was "as good as new".
I'm sorry, gave ya my input which prolly was mirrored by others so they didn't repeat .... did ya have another question ?

So add it to the loop because if something does corrode which it will, it's "easy to clean"?

I'd rather not be cleaning anything and tearing down my loop, new coolant and leak checks,

His mobo will run hotter on water, mine ran at 18 on air and 29 on water (amb 15oC) as the water is warmer than the mobo parts would have got on air, but it looks nicer smile.gif

Reading about that std block and the problems it creates under water I would leave it on air till you have your EK's
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Red Dwarf
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post #2562 of 19376
I don't know about the anodized aluminum block on the MIVF, maybe the anodizing is magical compared to my previous experiences, but I wouldn't use it. If I wanted to cool that board I'd buy the waterblocks EK recently released for it.

Those anodized aluminum fittings Danger Den used to sell - you can still find them for sale all over the place - would cause a corrosion explosion in no time. We (my brother and I) used them along with an ethylene glycol coolant and within 6-7 months time you couldn't take any of the fittings loose without destroying the threads on the fittings and whatever they were screwed into. We found corrosion from the fittings had been breaking away and clogging the fins in his CPU block and you could see tons of the stuff shining a light down into the rads that no amount of flushing ever got rid of. We filled-shaked-drained many many times and all it did was move the particles around in there. Hooked it up to the sink and after hours of wasting water through it the pieces coming out of it never stopped. The whole loop was a complete loss thanks to 6 or 8 of those anodized aluminum fittings. I think my brother was able to clean and re-use the pump was all.

There were MANY similar accounts posted all over boards like these about those fittings and other anodized aluminum parts - like manifolds - that many people were using at the time. There's good reason no one uses that stuff any more and why all the boards discussing ASUS' decision to go with an aluminum water channel on the MIVF were met with shock and disbelief.
Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 1/20/14 at 1:29am
post #2563 of 19376
Quote:
Originally Posted by owcraftsman View Post

The Alphacool NexXxos UT60 is a top performing rad reasonably priced and will definitely fit at $99 it's actually a good value. Sell the one you have to help pay for it. I wouldn't go with anything less in that space. The monsta is overkill really but I got a good deal on a used one which is another good alternative you might consider. 
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1801270&highlight=360+radiator (121mm wide) GL


Thanks I was trying to use some of the stuff I had laying around from a build in 2008, the whole saving money concept, but then again I have never been good at that so why start now LOL. I will be going with the 30mm thick rad for the latent heat transfer at low speed fan efficiency. Guess I could try and sell this stuff.

Thanks.
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post #2564 of 19376
Man its nice to see so many nice Enthoo builds starting to show up. Great work by a lot so far.

I no longer have the Enthoo case, but hope you guys don't mind me popping in here every now and then and saying hi.

Great work keeping up the thread Doyll.
post #2565 of 19376
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jassilamba View Post

Man its nice to see so many nice Enthoo builds starting to show up. Great work by a lot so far.

I no longer have the Enthoo case, but hope you guys don't mind me popping in here every now and then and saying hi.

Great work keeping up the thread Doyll.
Wondered what happened to you. Good to see you drop in once in awhile. You are always welcome here Jesse. cheers.gif

As for keeping up the thread.. It's not me. All I did wast start a thread. The great work keeping up the tread is done by everyone who posts your rigs and helpful knowledge here.thumb.gif
post #2566 of 19376
It's a shame I have to go through half the day before I hear that sound...........the sound of my head popping out of my arse , I assembled this then I noticed something was wrong with the picture.




gotta put one set of fans on the top of the case, Damnit man.
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Patriot Viper Xtreme 8GB Desktop Module Kit - D... Patriot Viper Xtreme 8GB Desktop Module Kit - D... OCZ Vertex 3  WD Blue  
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post #2567 of 19376
Made an account to post a question.

Looking for a new case and the Phanteks Enthoo Primo got my eye. Before I buy the case I have a question for a current “Phanteks Enthoo Primo” owner with an Corsair Professional Series AX1200i PSU.

Does the AX1200i fit? It’s a big PSU and I wonder if the FAN intake on the Phanteks Enthoo Primo is lined up correctly with the FAN on the AX1200i. Can somebody share his/her experience, perhaps with pictures?

Appreciate your support.
post #2568 of 19376
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunciq View Post

Made an account to post a question.

Looking for a new case and the Phanteks Enthoo Primo got my eye. Before I buy the case I have a question for a current “Phanteks Enthoo Primo” owner with an Corsair Professional Series AX1200i PSU.

Does the AX1200i fit? It’s a big PSU and I wonder if the FAN intake on the Phanteks Enthoo Primo is lined up correctly with the FAN on the AX1200i. Can somebody share his/her experience, perhaps with pictures?

Appreciate your support.

If you check out the review on the Enthoo Primo over at the themodzoo.com you can see that I used the AX 1200i for my review/build. The PSU fits without any issue, and the vents line perfectly.
post #2569 of 19376
Thank your for your quick repley jassilamba. My answer has been answered.
Many thanks.
post #2570 of 19376
Quote:
Originally Posted by simsim44 View Post

It's a shame I have to go through half the day before I hear that sound...........the sound of my head popping out of my arse , I assembled this then I noticed something was wrong with the picture.




gotta put one set of fans on the top of the case, Damnit man.

classic Face-Palm... lol
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