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post #2571 of 18679
Did we get small m3 screws with the case? Just long enough to fasten the rad to the case.. and do someone know if a 140 fan above these screws (will be used for a 480 rad) in push intake would clear the heads if we got screws appropriate boundled with the enthoo
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evolv
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post #2572 of 18679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxycon View Post

Did we get small m3 screws with the case? Just long enough to fasten the rad to the case.. and do someone know if a 140 fan above these screws (will be used for a 480 rad) in push intake would clear the heads if we got screws appropriate boundled with the enthoo

The accessories box that comes with the Enthoo Primo includes 28 M3x5mm screws. They are the motherboard screws, so you probably already used almost half of them just for that, and more if you used any of the others to secure your SSDs into the brackets. But you lost me on how you would be able to secure a fan above them if the short screws were going through the case into the rad. The screws have a washer-head, so they aren't going to sit perfectly flat if that's what you mean.
Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 1/21/14 at 6:55pm
post #2573 of 18679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

The accessories box that comes with the Enthoo Primo includes 28 M3x5mm screws. They are the motherboard screws, so you probably already used almost half of them just for that, and more if you used any of the others to secure your SSDs into the brackets. But you lost me on how you would be able to secure a fan above them if the short screws were going through the case into the rad. The screws have a washer-head, so they aren't going to sit perfectly flat if that's what you mean.

Doubt i can explain it any better, but 11 screws should be more than plenty biggrin.gif cant wait for my next teardown now

I think the 140 fans on the 480 rad is a better solution than cutting the case to accomodate my rad the right way
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evolv
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post #2574 of 18679
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxycon View Post

Doubt i can explain it any better, but 11 screws should be more than plenty biggrin.gif cant wait for my next teardown now

I think the 140 fans on the 480 rad is a better solution than cutting the case to accomodate my rad the right way

Now you really lost me. lol.

I've had no probs at all putting a 480 in the top of mine, but then again I did cut holes in the top so I could have access to the top ports on the rad to use as fill ports. It still fit just fine before I cut the holes though. I must have missed whatever issues you were having. Mounting 140 fans on a 480 rad seems like not such a good idea to me though.

pressure_gauge_loop_leak_test

Air pressure leak test on my preliminary loop. Still waiting on my RIVB3 waterblocks to get here so I can finish it up right.
Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 1/22/14 at 2:07am
post #2575 of 18679

Just a note for those who bought there case from the NewEgg and who mailed in for there $20 Rebate,  I sent mine in 6 weeks ago and got my check today in the mail.

 

On a not so happy note It's been over two weeks and still no response from support about my foggy side panel glass or the PWM Hub. However I used the live chat today they claimed my submission could not be found and asked for additional pictures to be sent  other than the ones I posted here in this thread so we'll see what happens there. My camera isn't the greatest and really doesn't illustrate how poor the quality of the glass really is in person.

 

Back to happy news again I was told in that same chat session that PWM Hubs will become available at their web site in March and pre-orders will be accepted at some point but not yet. Either way the support rep felt there will be sufficient quantities that they won't run out once they receive the shipment.

Luxe 1
(33 items)
 
Enthoo Primo
(28 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 6700k MSI Z170A G7 GTX 1080Ti FE G.SKILL 32GB (4 x 8GB) Ripjaws V Series DDR4 PC... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Samsung 950 Pro M.2 WDC WD1003FZEX-00MK2A0 Seagate Backup+ Desk SCSI Disk Device asus bc-12b1st 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC Raystorm Pro Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm radiator  Monsoon Series Two D5 Premium Dual Bay Reservoi... Phanteks PH-F140SP Case Fan 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Aquacomputer backplate for kryographics Pascal ... corsair sp120 high performance led tygon plasticizer free kryographics Pascal for NVIDIA TITAN X and GTX ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Mayhem Pastel White UV Monsoon center compression fittings  Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 280mm radiator  Windows 10 Pro x64 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
BenQ BL3200PT CAD Professional Monitor  Asus PB278Q (Extended) Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB Mechanical Gaming Ke... CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12... 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Phanteks Enthoo Luxe PH-ES614L  Func MS-3 rev2 Cooler Master Speed RX Creative Sound Blaster Zx 116dB PCIe Gaming Sou... 
AudioAudioOtherOther
Logitech Z906 5.1 Surround Sound Speaker System... HyperX KHX-H3CLW Cloud Gaming Headset - White  Darkside dimable LED strips  Modsmart Kobra Cables 
Other
EVGA PowerLink 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 4790k @ 4.8 MSI Z97 Gaming 7  Saphire R9 290x (hynix) Saphire R9 290x (Hynix) 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
GSkill Ripjaws Z F3-2400C10D-8GZH 2x Samsung 850 Pro Raid-0  AMD RAMDisk WD1001FALS (Data/Backup) 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Asus BC-12B1ST BlueRay Custom Water Cooled Windows 10 Pro x64 Asus PG279Q 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Asus PG278Q Corsair K70 EVGA 1000w G2 Phanteks Enthoo Primo 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
FUNC MS-3 rev2  XTRAC PADS Ripper Optical Mouse pad Kingston HyperX Cloud II  Creative Sound Blaster Z PCIe 116dB SNR Gaming ... 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 420mm EK Supremacy EVO Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 360 Radiator EK-FC R9-290X Waterblock - Nickel Acetal (Rev.2.0) 
OtherOtherOtherOther
EK-FC R9-290X backplate Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150 ... Bitspower D5 MOD TOP (Black "S" Model) PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 10ft Tubing - 1/2in. ID ... 
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Luxe 1
(33 items)
 
Enthoo Primo
(28 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 6700k MSI Z170A G7 GTX 1080Ti FE G.SKILL 32GB (4 x 8GB) Ripjaws V Series DDR4 PC... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Samsung 950 Pro M.2 WDC WD1003FZEX-00MK2A0 Seagate Backup+ Desk SCSI Disk Device asus bc-12b1st 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC Raystorm Pro Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm radiator  Monsoon Series Two D5 Premium Dual Bay Reservoi... Phanteks PH-F140SP Case Fan 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Aquacomputer backplate for kryographics Pascal ... corsair sp120 high performance led tygon plasticizer free kryographics Pascal for NVIDIA TITAN X and GTX ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Mayhem Pastel White UV Monsoon center compression fittings  Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 280mm radiator  Windows 10 Pro x64 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
BenQ BL3200PT CAD Professional Monitor  Asus PB278Q (Extended) Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB Mechanical Gaming Ke... CORSAIR HX Series HX750 750W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12... 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Phanteks Enthoo Luxe PH-ES614L  Func MS-3 rev2 Cooler Master Speed RX Creative Sound Blaster Zx 116dB PCIe Gaming Sou... 
AudioAudioOtherOther
Logitech Z906 5.1 Surround Sound Speaker System... HyperX KHX-H3CLW Cloud Gaming Headset - White  Darkside dimable LED strips  Modsmart Kobra Cables 
Other
EVGA PowerLink 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7 4790k @ 4.8 MSI Z97 Gaming 7  Saphire R9 290x (hynix) Saphire R9 290x (Hynix) 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
GSkill Ripjaws Z F3-2400C10D-8GZH 2x Samsung 850 Pro Raid-0  AMD RAMDisk WD1001FALS (Data/Backup) 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Asus BC-12B1ST BlueRay Custom Water Cooled Windows 10 Pro x64 Asus PG279Q 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Asus PG278Q Corsair K70 EVGA 1000w G2 Phanteks Enthoo Primo 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
FUNC MS-3 rev2  XTRAC PADS Ripper Optical Mouse pad Kingston HyperX Cloud II  Creative Sound Blaster Z PCIe 116dB SNR Gaming ... 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 420mm EK Supremacy EVO Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 360 Radiator EK-FC R9-290X Waterblock - Nickel Acetal (Rev.2.0) 
OtherOtherOtherOther
EK-FC R9-290X backplate Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150 ... Bitspower D5 MOD TOP (Black "S" Model) PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 10ft Tubing - 1/2in. ID ... 
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post #2576 of 18679
Quote:
Originally Posted by owcraftsman View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Just a note for those who bought there case from the NewEgg and who mailed in for there $20 Rebate,  I sent mine in 6 weeks ago and got my check today in the mail.

On a not so happy note It's been over two weeks and still no response from support about my foggy side panel glass or the PWM Hub. However I used the live chat today they claimed my submission could not be found and asked for additional pictures to be sent  other than the ones I posted here in this thread so we'll see what happens there. My camera isn't the greatest and really doesn't illustrate how poor the quality of the glass really is in person.

Back to happy news again I was told in that same chat session that PWM Hubs will become available at their web site in March and pre-orders will be accepted at some point but not yet. Either way the support rep felt there will be sufficient quantities that they won't run out once they receive the shipment.

That's good news, even though I'm not using the hub I have let alone looking for another any more I know others have been. I am interested in getting another of the SSD brackets though. Guess I'll have to hit up their chat or their forum to find out about that.
post #2577 of 18679
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

pressure_gauge_loop_leak_test

Air pressure leak test on my preliminary loop. Still waiting on my RIVB3 waterblocks to get here so I can finish it up right.
I had wondered why nobody was using air to leak test. thumb.gif
Looks like you are using about 8psi?
post #2578 of 18679
Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

I had wondered why nobody was using air to leak test. thumb.gif
Looks like you are using about 8psi?

Yeah, the consensus was that 7-8 PSI is more pressure than a loop will ever see under load, yet still safely below what watercooling parts can handle.

On advice from B Negative and Darlene (IT Diva) who put together a how-to of sorts, among others, and especially after seeing Luna P burn up a brand new pump when he fired it up to do his leak-test due to a leak that an air pressure test would have discovered, I decided to put together a way to air pressure test my loops instead of playing Russian Roulette with thousands of dollars of gear by putting down paper towels and crossing my fingers the way I'd always done it before.

I went a simpler / much cheaper route than B Negative or IT Diva suggested though. I spent about $25 in all on a 1/4 NPT threaded Schrader valve and a 30 PSI gauge and fitted them into Koolance G 1/4" Male to NPT 1/4" Female adapters so they can be screwed into any available port in my loop. I use a compressor to pump it up (with a regulator dialed way down so I don't chance adding more than 10 PSI under any circumstances), but any bicycle pump would have worked just as well.

Edit:
A heads-up though. Those Koolance adapters suck. It took several tries, and adding more and more teflon tape and torquing it down way more than should have ever been necessary. Seriously! By the time I got them to seal up leak-free @ 10 PSI I was turning them just about as hard as I could with one end in a vice and a long handle wrench on the other, and thought for sure towards the end there that I was going to split open one of the fittings before they would ever seal up, but they eventually did. They are never ever coming apart now though.

IT Diva tried to warn me the threads on those Koolance fittings were junk, but I really didn't want to believe they could be that bad until I got them and found out for myself. I didn't manage to find any other 1/4 NPT to G1/4 adapters though for anywhere near the same price, so I was determined to make them work. The next option for me was going to be to coat the male threads with Gorilla Glue and seal them together. I'm confident that would have worked, but if not then I was going to bite the bullet and spend quite a bit more and order everything to set it up the way IT Diva had suggested doing in the first place. I believe she had mentioned spending ~$100 on her contraption though. arrowheadsmiley.png
Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 1/22/14 at 4:33am
post #2579 of 18679
Thread Starter 
I agree with the 8psi. Think if I was building one it would have a piece of hose between cooling system and gauge with a T fitting for gauge and Schrader valve.. preferably with a rubber coating on them so no chance of damaging paint and such.. but for no more than it will get used what you have is fine. thumb.gif
post #2580 of 18679
Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

I agree with the 8psi. Think if I was building one it would have a piece of hose between cooling system and gauge with a T fitting for gauge and Schrader valve.. preferably with a rubber coating on them so no chance of damaging paint and such.. but for no more than it will get used what you have is fine. thumb.gif

I initially had both the gauge and the valve screwed into tubes with barb fittings at either end so I could screw them in just about anywhere and work with them from outside the case, but that was before I cut holes in the case for the top-facing ports on my top rad and the tubes became unnecessary and cumbersome. I found that it's hard to air up the schrader valve if the valve is not in secured in a fixed position. If the valve is flopping around on the end of a hose then holding the air chuck up tight to it to get it to seal and working the handle to add air into it while holding the valve from moving becomes a three hand job. Similarly, you need to have a good unobstructed view of the pressure gauge as you add air, so having it flopping around on a hose was less-than-ideal compared to having it in a fixed position where I could see it and it wasn't going to move on me.

I'm pretty sure that's why IT Diva built a whole contraption she can set on a table outside of her build that holds everything upright and in place, but as it turned out for me the dual fill-ports on top of my case turned out to be ideal for this purpose, and saved me from needing anything extra like that. If/ when I use it on another build that doesn't have as handy of ports like that then I have plenty of hose and fittings to make it work that way if I have to, although I'd probably only want to do that with the gauge. If possible I'd still want to be able to screw the valve right into an available port on something solid so I can add air to it easily.
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