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[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners - Page 259

post #2581 of 18669
Thread Starter 
Indeed.

When it's all said ad done a hand pump is probably the easiest way to pressurize the system.
post #2582 of 18669
Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

Indeed.

When it's all said ad done a hand pump is probably the easiest way to pressurize the system.

Yeah, but with some hand pumps, just like with an air chuck on a compressor, you need to push with a decent amount of force against the valve for it to seal and add air, and you just pull it away quickly to get the valve to seal, so you'll want the valve screwed into something solid (like a rad) that's not going to move on you. This is the better type of air chuck for this purpose imho.

The hand/foot pumps that have a latching mechanism to seal the hose from the pump to a valve might seem at first to be a better idea, but I'm pretty confident saying they would be an even bigger headache as you lose all of the air pressure at ~8PSI in an instant, and those type pumps tend to let out quite a bit of air as you try to unseal it from the valve. I'm not sure you'd be able to get it to work at all unless you also add a shutoff valve so you can seal the air at the desired pressure before trying to detach the air chuck.

Come to think of it that's probably why both B Negative and IT Diva suggested having a shutoff valve. I didn't see the need for it since the schrader valve is a shutoff valve itself as long as you can detach the pump quickly enough from it.




In any case to leak-test a loop using air pressure you'll want to keep the air pressure on the loop for 12 or more hours at least to be able to make sure that the needle on the gauge doesn't move.
Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 1/22/14 at 6:50am
post #2583 of 18669
Really interesting the air pressure to test for leaks. thks for posting this. I was wondering also if could be use to help drain the system. My ongoing build within the Primo is being a pita to drain even with air intake at the xt45 480 at the top and a t-line with bistpower valve at the bottom... But I guess 10 psi would not be enough to force any water out of the system so back to planning and probably change the bottom radiator in front (is a XSPC with only 2 ports facing up). Will change for a Alphacool 60 280 mm so I can add another drain at the bottom....
post #2584 of 18669
That's an interesting idea. I'm not sure how much it would help or not though to keep trying to add just 5-8 PSI as the loop drains over just having fillports at the top open and a drain plug at the bottom. You might be able to pump it out easier with a foot/hand pump but you'd likely break a sweat doing it. It'd be a nice little workout I'm sure.

A better idea would be to buy an extra pump of some sort - the smallest / cheapest pond pump you can find would work - and hook it up to your drain line. As long as there's a top port open to let air in that should drain your loop in no time.

I have a pump like that I use in a rad flushing kit I put together that I don't think I would have even thought to use for draining until just now, but it seems it would also be ideal for that purpose.

new rad filter setup
Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 1/22/14 at 7:57am
post #2585 of 18669
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

That's an interesting idea. I'm not sure how much it would help or not though to keep trying to add just 5-8 PSI as the loop drains over just having fillports at the top open and a drain plug at the bottom. You might be able to pump it out easier with a foot/hand pump but you'd likely break a sweat doing it. It'd be a nice little workout I'm sure.

A better idea would be to buy an extra pump of some sort - the smallest / cheapest pond pump you can find would work - and hook it up to your drain line. As long as there's a top port open to let air in that should drain your loop in no time.

I have a pump like that I use in a rad flushing kit I put together that I don't think I would have even thought to use for draining until just now, but it seems it would also be ideal for that purpose.

new rad filter setup

Ah better yet! Because I do use the same system to flush my parts (check the build log which is heavily outdated since the pc is down for now). Thks mate. +rep for the tip.

EDIT- Ah, one thing however. If the the pump (pond pump) have enough pressure would not the water also spill out from the top port open???
Edited by Gabrielzm - 1/22/14 at 8:04am
post #2586 of 18669
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

Ah better yet! Because I do use the same system to flush my parts (check the build log which is heavily outdated since the pc is down for now). Thks mate. +rep for the tip.


Derp!

I don't know what I was thinking.. confusedsmiley.png

The pond pump doesn't have an 'in' line. Just an 'out'. It needs to sit submersed in the 'in' fluid source, so it's 'not' going to work for hooking up to a drain line. Sorry

I guess what you'd really need is an extra watercooling pump that has an inlet and outlet. I might pick up a used one from the marketplace or a cheap new one off ebay or maybe a DDC from BMaverick just for that purpose myself, plus it'll be good to have another extra around 'just in case' I need it.

EDIT:

A 'Drill Pump' could be made to work and be a cheap alternative as long as you already have a drill to operate it. You would need a couple barb adapters for it too though.
Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 1/22/14 at 8:17am
post #2587 of 18669
Quote:
Originally Posted by Liqu1dShadow View Post

So add it to the loop because if something does corrode which it will, it's "easy to clean"?

I'd rather not be cleaning anything and tearing down my loop, new coolant and leak checks,

His mobo will run hotter on water, mine ran at 18 on air and 29 on water (amb 15oC) as the water is warmer than the mobo parts would have got on air, but it looks nicer smile.gif

Reading about that std block and the problems it creates under water I would leave it on air till you have your EK's
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maldark View Post

I'm sorry for bumping, but as I am going to assemble the rig tomorrow, I'd very much like your view on this^

No, it is scientifically impossible for any lesser metal to corrode a more noble metal. There has never been a documented issue with an Type 3 anodized aluminum water block....ever.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

Those anodized aluminum fittings Danger Den used to sell - you can still find them for sale all over the place - would cause a corrosion explosion in no time. We (my brother and I) used them along with an ethylene glycol coolant and within 6-7 months time you couldn't take any of the fittings loose without destroying the threads on the fittings and whatever they were screwed into. We found corrosion from the fittings had been breaking away and clogging the fins in his CPU block and you could see tons of the stuff shining a light down into the rads that no amount of flushing ever got rid of. We filled-shaked-drained many many times and all it did was move the particles around in there. Hooked it up to the sink and after hours of wasting water through it the pieces coming out of it never stopped. The whole loop was a complete loss thanks to 6 or 8 of those anodized aluminum fittings. I think my brother was able to clean and re-use the pump was all.

I'd expect the same with the "faux anodizing process" used. Never had any but remember the discussions.... As I recall, they were not Type 3 anodized, nor were they salt spray tested per ASTM / ISO standards. I'm about 3 months away from a teardown .... wanna check blocks for any more paint flakes from fittings. Then we can compare notes between ya bro's build .

I have over 25 years experience with anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments .... not distilled water w/ corrosion inhibitors, not engineered coolants...... talking school bus sized engine parts, wastewater treatment plants, shoreline facilities, etc with just one failure.....the instance would be akin to using a socket wrench to install the fitting into the black and cracking the block and deforming plate surrounding it.
Quote:
There were MANY similar accounts posted all over boards like these about those fittings and other anodized aluminum parts - like manifolds - that many people were using at the time. There's good reason no one uses that stuff any more and why all the boards discussing ASUS' decision to go with an aluminum water channel on the MIVF were met with shock and disbelief.

The science is there and that's the way manufacturers are going .... Gigabyte is now doing the same on the Sniper........and MSI has one rumored. Odd tho that no one has concerns about brass and copper in the rads (See martins pics in his galvanic corrosion article).

I can't even remember a MIVF .... did it have an aluminum block and if it did, wouldn't a IV series be like 3 years old ?

I tried to contact Kier whose build is 10 months old and see if he's seen any signs of corrosion ... if he hasn't taken it down or disposed of already, that would be 50% longer than your brother usage.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunciq View Post

Made an account to post a question.

Looking for a new case and the Phanteks Enthoo Primo got my eye. Before I buy the case I have a question for a current “Phanteks Enthoo Primo” owner with an Corsair Professional Series AX1200i PSU.

Does the AX1200i fit? It’s a big PSU and I wonder if the FAN intake on the Phanteks Enthoo Primo is lined up correctly with the FAN on the AX1200i. Can somebody share his/her experience, perhaps with pictures?

Appreciate your support.

If ya haven't bought yet, I was looking at the 1200i but found the X-1250 from Seasonic more to my liking, and was pleasantly surprised that it was $100 cheaper at the time. Both are fine PSUs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

That's good news, even though I'm not using the hub I have let alone looking for another any more I know others have been. I am interested in getting another of the SSD brackets though. Guess I'll have to hit up their chat or their forum to find out about that.

Well if they don't have em by March, ya wanna trade smile.gif


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabrielzm View Post

Really interesting the air pressure to test for leaks. thks for posting this. I was wondering also if could be use to help drain the system. My ongoing build within the Primo is being a pita to drain even with air intake at the xt45 480 at the top and a t-line with bistpower valve at the bottom... But I guess 10 psi would not be enough to force any water out of the system so back to planning and probably change the bottom radiator in front (is a XSPC with only 2 ports facing up). Will change for a Alphacool 60 280 mm so I can add another drain at the bottom....

I drained mine.... was kinda easy.... just opened up the two rad port extensions on top and connected a QD.... took maybe 20 secs to drain .....for the last 3-4 ounces, I did a "back tilt" to drain the top rad a forward tilt with a side tilt to drain the GPU blocks and bottom rad.


Id think a barb fitting a 12" tube and a deep breath wud clear it smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

EDIT:

A could be made to work and be a cheap alternative as long as you already have a drill to operate it.

Been there, done that so word of advice. I tested the drill pump before using it and found little mushy pieces of stuff floating in the discharge bucket ..... opened it up and found a marble sized wad of grease on the out port that the discharge had tunneled thru. So if ya reusing ya fluid, ya sure don't want lil globules of that grease floating around in there. I took it apart and wiped it down thoroughly .....

it's also good for back flushing ya blocks .... I connected a spare piece of flex tube and screwed a fitting into the out port on CPU and blew out 3 or 4 paint flakes that must have been scraped off fittings or rads during assembly - disassembly - reassembly.
Edited by JackNaylorPE - 1/22/14 at 11:00am
911 Carrera
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911 Carrera
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post #2588 of 18669
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post


No, it is scientifically impossible for any lesser metal to corrode a more noble metal. There has never been a documented issue with an anodized aluminum water block....ever.

Agreed about anodized aluminum, as there is no evidence on that yet. But if anyone else wondering on this question, here is a good read - http://www.overclock.net/t/141512/mixing-aluminum-and-copper-in-a-waterloop

Also an FYI - Almost all AIO coolers have aluminum rads, and copper blocks.
post #2589 of 18669
Hi owners, anyone here have an idea of when the white version will be available (in europe), my e-tailer have it in pre-order expected february 25th, this case really interest me for my next build.
All the rad space... rolleyes.gif
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post #2590 of 18669
Quote:
Originally Posted by jassilamba View Post

Agreed about anodized aluminum, as there is no evidence on that yet. But if anyone else wondering on this question, here is a good read - http://www.overclock.net/t/141512/mixing-aluminum-and-copper-in-a-waterloop

Also an FYI - Almost all AIO coolers have aluminum rads, and copper blocks.

Interesting read..... I took particular note of the guy with the Anod. Alum. Res who took the system apart twice over 2 years and found everything as good as new....but another guy said black finish was wearing off.....wonder what that was and what he had didn't have in his coolant. I'm more concerned about the finish on the BP fittings, and AC rads, since I have already picked paint / coating flakes outta my CPU WB.
Edited by JackNaylorPE - 1/22/14 at 11:26am
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2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB (2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cach... Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blue Ray Writer 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45-420 + 1 x Alphacool ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
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